Tapered Legs on the Jointer

Collapse
X
Collapse
  •  

  • Tapered Legs on the Jointer

    About a year ago I promised a write-up on tapering legs using the jointer. I'm not quick, but I got it done.

    All of the following assumes you've milled your legs to size and have your joinery figured out. In this case I'm using sliding dovetails for the apron to legs, so I did all of that milling first.

    [ATTACH]21698[/ATTACH]

    The legs I'm doing are 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 red oak, I'm using a 5/16 depth of cut on the jointer. You can change the depth of cut if you find you're not comfortable with that big of a bite, you'll just have to make more passes. (fair warning tho', red oak isn't the nicest stuff to work with when trying to do legs this way. It sounds like a war zone while you're milling.)

    Step 1: Marking your stops:

    You'll need to mark the top of the leg where you want the jointer cut to stop and then mark the fence just in front of the cutterhead. In my case I marked the fence before I lowed the infeed, it's not really a big deal as this isn't rocket science.

    [ATTACH]21700[/ATTACH]
    [ATTACH]21699[/ATTACH]

    Step 2: Making the initial cut:

    You'll want to make the initial cut 'foot first' into the jointer head and feed until your stop lines match up.

    [ATTACH]21700[/ATTACH]


    Take care to make the first cut on the proper side of the leg as it will allow you to have a solid face against the fence when you flip the leg for the second cut. You'll see in the following picture that I place a groove face down and one against the fence. When I rotate the workpiece to make the second cut, what is now the top of the leg will end up against the fence giving me solid support for the second cut.

    [ATTACH]21706[/ATTACH]

    After you complete this cut, you should end up with a leg that looks something like this.

    [ATTACH]21701[/ATTACH]
    [ATTACH]21702[/ATTACH]


    Step 3: Making the tapering cuts

    (I apologize that I didn't take pics of this part, I'll try to explain it the best I can and if need be I'll take pics and insert them here later)

    For this next cut, you'll need to turn the leg end for end with the cut side down and set the square top of the leg on the outfeed table. You'll want to have the end of the previous cut on the outfeed so that the leg straddles the cutterhead. Let the foot drop onto the infeed table, there should be ample clearance for the cutterhead in the 'hollow' of the previous cut.

    Make 2 passes this way, both times being sure to set the square leg top on the outfeed before starting the cut.

    (WARNING: BE SURE TO USE PUSH BLOCKS AND PROPER PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR ETC. AS YOU APPROACH THE END OF THE CUT THERE IS A TENDENCY FOR BLOW-OUT especially with red oak)

    After 2 passes "head first" thru the jointer, you should end up with a leg that looks similar to this:

    [ATTACH]21705[/ATTACH]

    repeat for the second side and you should end up with something like the following:

    [ATTACH]21703[/ATTACH]
    [ATTACH]21704[/ATTACH]

    Step 4: Repeat 3 more times

    and you'll have all 4 legs

    [ATTACH]21707[/ATTACH]

    That's all there is to it, pretty straight-up, quick, and simple if you ask me. My biggest piece of advice is to be careful with what wood you're using. I did white oak this way last year and it seemed to go a lot easier than using red oak today. Red oak has such a tendency to blow out that it can be rather scary making the cuts.

    Good luck, be safe and have fun!!!!

    • cgallery
      #1
      cgallery commented
      Editing a comment
      That is pretty slick!

    • gaj1967
      #2
      gaj1967 commented
      Editing a comment
      It's funny how some things just time themselves. Today I came across this video on tapering legs with a jointer and then tonight I came across this tutorial.

      http://fw_woodworking.permissiontv.c...?showid=115402

      Now if only I had a jointer I could try it.
    Posting comments is disabled.

Latest Articles

Collapse

  • How to identify a Ryobi BT3000/BT3100/Craftsman 22811 or 21829 clone saw by sight
    by LCHIEN
    So you want to buy a BT3 clone. Been out of production for a while. Shopping on Craigs list or for sale ads is hard

    You have to keep an eye out and you have to be used to spotting the appearance giveaway features of the various models... Ryobi BT3000, BT3100, Craftsman 22811 and 21829
    There are certain things that clue you in and there are many ads that don't give model numbers and have crappy photos. Search for keywords RYOBI, Precision, System are often used in ad listings and
    ...
    12-20-2022, 01:53 AM
  • How to tell plunge router bits from non-plunge router bits.
    by LCHIEN
    Do you guys know your router bits?

    Do you know how to tell a plunge bit from a non-plunge bit?

    A non plunge bit has cutters around the periphery, but not the center. It can enter grooves from the side and cut moving sideways.

    A plunge bit has cutters that go all the way to the center of the bit face. It can cut moving vertically as well as sideways.
    Above see the bar across the center as well as the two edge cutters? Without this bar, when you drive the...
    12-22-2020, 04:09 AM
  • Festool Domino Settings for Evenly Spaced Mortises
    by twistsol
    I was in the shop this weekend and was trying to figure out the math for the settings on the Festool Domino to space the mortices evenly and centered across a cabinet front to back. After a bunch of trial and error with my math, I gave up and got close enough and cut the Domino slots for most of the cabinets before my shop time ran out. It was still bugging me, so I figured it out on the plane on the way to work.

    Very simply, we need to subtract the width of all mortises created from...
    01-29-2018, 12:46 AM
  • Sharpening Woodworking Chisels
    by Sam Conder
    While attending a "fundamentals of woodworking" class taught by Marc Adams at the Indianapolis woodworking show a few years ago, I was most impressed with his simple yet effective method of sharpening woodworking chisels. I contacted Marc and asked him for permission to write an article for BT3Central on how to sharpen chisels using his method. As expected, Marc was very receptive to the idea of sharing one of his "secrets". His exact response to me was " Absolutely, please feel free to teach anything you learned from me." So let's dive right into this and sharpen some chisels.
    ...
    04-29-2015, 10:15 AM
  • Primer on air fittings for the woodshop
    by LCHIEN
    Most common places to use air fittings in a home shop:
    Air compressor to hose or female QD fitting
    QD female fitting or male stud to hose
    male stud to tool (such as - air nozzle, nailer, screwdriver/drill/impact driver etc, spray painter)
    any semi-permanent 1/4" NPT to 1/4" NPT fitting

    To add to the confusion, there's nothing on a 1/4" NPT that really measures 1/4". THe threads are visibly tapered and the overall outside size of the male NPT...
    04-29-2015, 10:14 AM
  • How to use Digital Calipers for Woodworking
    by LCHIEN
    Digital calipers like these are available for 10-30 dollars. The size quoted as in "6-inch digital calipers" refers to the maximum measurement. The resolution and accuracy of these are typically .001 or one-thousandth of an inch. Some have an additional digit that shows 0 or 5 for half a thousandth. I recommend the six-inch Harbor freight ones, they work very well and are of surprisingly high quality. The stainless body ones are better than the composite plastic body ones although the plastic ones ...
    04-29-2015, 10:13 AM

The SawdustZone Statistics

Collapse

Topics: 61,288   Posts: 558,598   Members: 20,633   Active Members: 68
Welcome to our newest member, Foster Kingston.

What's Going On

Collapse

There are currently 7066 users online. 2 members and 7064 guests.

Most users ever online was 11,606 at 02:28 AM on 03-29-2024.

Working...