Very simply, we need to subtract the width of all mortises created from...
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Festool Domino Settings for Evenly Spaced Mortises
I was in the shop this weekend and was trying to figure out the math for the settings on the Festool Domino to space the mortices evenly and centered across a cabinet front to back. After a bunch of trial and error with my math, I gave up and got close enough and cut the Domino slots for most of the cabinets before my shop time ran out. It was still bugging me, so I figured it out on the plane on the way to work.
Very simply, we need to subtract the width of all mortises created from...Last edited by twistsol; 06-27-2018, 01:27 PM. -
Sharpening Woodworking Chisels
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Created by:
Sam Conder
Sharpening Woodworking Chisels
While attending a "fundamentals of woodworking" class taught by Marc Adams at the Indianapolis woodworking show a few years ago, I was most impressed with his simple yet effective method of sharpening woodworking chisels. I contacted Marc and asked him for permission to write an article for BT3Central on how to sharpen chisels using his method. As expected, Marc was very receptive to the idea of sharing one of his "secrets". His exact response to me was " Absolutely, please feel free to teach anything you learned from me." So let's dive right into this and sharpen some chisels.
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Handscrew Clamp Tutorial
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Created by:
LCHIEN
Handscrew Clamp Tutorial
I have posted the tutorial as a PDF file attachment as it was picture intensive and I didn't want to have to mess with formatting the file here.
Please download and view the PDF file.... -
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Preventing and fixing a slipping drill press chuck.
Have you ever chucked up that big bit, say a 3" Forstner bit, and without thinking just line up your hole, power up the drill press and start drilling away only to have the drill press bog down and end up with the chuck slipping, or even falling off the taper? Well, the fix is plenty simple. First off. Avoid slipping the chuck at all. This means you need to make certain of the following. #1. Your bits are good and sharp. A dull bit will grab the workpiece instead of cutting it. You'd bog down a V-8 engine with some of the bits I have seen people try to use on their dril presses. #2. Your drill press is running at an appropriate ... -
Primer on air fittings for the woodshop
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Primer on air fittings for the woodshop
Most common places to use air fittings in a home shop: Air compressor to hose or female QD fitting QD female fitting or male stud to hose male stud to tool (such as - air nozzle, nailer, screwdriver/drill/impact driver etc, spray painter) any semi-permanent 1/4" NPT to 1/4" NPT fitting To add to the confusion, there's nothing on a 1/4" NPT that really measures 1/4". THe threads are visibly tapered and the overall outside size of the male NPT threaded fitting is around 1/2" to 5/8" diameter. The QD stands for Quick disconnect; Pull back on the outer sleeve of the female QD and you can plug in or release a male stud. A female quick disconnect and a male stud are usually used in a shop to permit rapid, leak free connection and disconnection of tools and hoses. THe QD has a check valve so unconnected, it won't leak air at the end of a hose. The stud is open through and will bleed air from the tool when t... -
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DIY Router Box Joint Jig for the BT3
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DIY Router Box Joint Jig for the BT3
It's really not very hard to make your own jig for very little bucks. 1. Buy a wood square dowel 1/4" - they are usually quite square and accurate. Available at Ace, HD, Lowes. A buck or two for 36" 2. Cut two, 4" pieces of the square dowel. 3. Laminate two 1x4 by about 18" and attach this jig to your miter fence to allow moving sideways - easy with the BT3 fence with slot. Also easy with the Rockler fence clamps if you have them (get some if you don't have them) 4. Use the dado blade set to precisely 1/4" wide (check by using the dowel pieces you cut - should be a slip fit) and cut a 1/4" high dado across the bottom of the attac... -
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Cutting circles with a router - DIY jig
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Created by:
Cutting circles with a router - DIY jig
Cutting Circles with your Router
Copyright 2012 by Loring Chien
OK, so you need to cut a large circle or arc in a piece of wood or panel. Freehanding with a jigsaw is a possibility, but for a really smooth and accurate circle the router is the best tool.
There’s a number of jigs on the market for sale and they cost around $40 to $60 like this one from Rockler:
And this one from Jasper:
They are nice but unless you do a lot of circles of different sizes then the DIY solution is much cheaper.
Here’s my solution and it cost me a scrap piece of cedar 5-1/2” x 12” long x 5/8” thick. $0.00. Probably hardwood would be better but this works fine.
On the long axis I drew a center line. About a inch and a half from the end I drilled a ½” hole carefully centering the hole (marked”A”) on the centerline and the cro... -
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How to use Digital Calipers for Woodworking
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How to use Digital Calipers for Woodworking
Digital calipers like these are available for 10-30 dollars. The size quoted as in "6-inch digital calipers" refers to the maximum measurement. The resolution and accuracy of these are typically .001 or one-thousandth of an inch. Some have an additional digit that shows 0 or 5 for half a thousandth.
I recommend the six-inch Harbor freight ones, they work very well and are of surprisingly high quality. The stainless body ones are better than the composite plastic body ones although the plastic ones are cheaper. HF has the Stainless ones on sale for $10-20 frequently with "regular" prices at $30. Links at the end of the article.
Familiarize yourself with the parts of a caliper:
First we will measure the outside of an item (could be a... -
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The Grizzly Tension Release Lever install HOWTO.
Hot Rodding The Central Machinery #32208 14" 4 speed woodcutting band saw. The Grizzly Tension Release assembly and related components. Before I dive into this, consider this a LICENSE for use. This information is provided for informational purposes only, no warranty to effectiveness, safety, or fitness for any purpose is given. The reader assumes all responsibility for all consequences arising from the use of the information provided. The reader likewise holds the original poster harmless, and without liability for any and all results of the use of this information. This information was developed from various internet, and woodworking club resources. The modifications and procedures listed are merely a listing of what has worked for me. No claim is made that it will likewise work for you. Now that I have my backside covered in case you can't follow instructions and manage to hurt yourself or seriously damage your band saw... Let's proceed. To... -
Treating veneer edges for glue up.
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Created by:
drumpriest
Treating veneer edges for glue up.
I have used veneer saws in the past to cut edges for gluing together veneer, and I've compressed it between 2 pieces of 1/4" ply and cut on the TS. These work ok, but I didn't get perfect edges from the veneer saw, and I wasted a good deal of ply on the TS. I just finished a marquetry panel for a project (images soon) and when it came time to veneer, I can to face this problem again. For marquetry, I use shop cut veneer, so that it'll hold together while I make the double bevel cut on the scroll saw. So my veneer was 1/16" thick, far thicker than commercial veneer. I suspecte... -
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Router Edge Guide For Dado
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Created by:
Jeffrey Schronce
Router Edge Guide For Dado
This is a basic project that I thought would be useful for some of you folks that are new to routers. I tried to photo document, even the relatively evident, so a beginner can use the instructions. I am sure I have borrowed heavily from other people in making the jig, however I didn't use any plans so I am not citing references. Material : Material is a matter of choice. I used 3/8" Baltic Birch because I happen to have a good supply due to a friendly woodworker giving me a bunch of cutoffs. I felt Baltic Birch was a good choice here as it as a nice smooth finish, is very seasonally stable to movement, has very few voids in plys and machines well. ShopNotes has a version where they use hardboard (1/4" maybe?). I felt this thicker BB was a be... -
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Tapered Legs on the Jointer
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Created by: Thom2
Tapered Legs on the Jointer
About a year ago I promised a write-up on tapering legs using the jointer. I'm not quick, but I got it done.
All of the following assumes you've milled your legs to size and have your joinery figured out. In this case I'm using sliding dovetails for the apron to legs, so I did all of that milling first.
The legs I'm doing are 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 red oak, I'm using a 5/16 depth of cut on the jointer. You can change the depth of cut if you find you're not comfortable with that big of a bite, you'll just have to make more passes. (fair warning tho', red oak isn't the nicest stuff to work with when trying to do legs this way. It sounds like a war zone while you're milling.)
Step 1: Marking your stops:
You'll need to mark the top of the leg where you want the jointer cut to stop and then mark ... -
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All About The World Of Clamps
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Created by: Jeffrey Schronce
All About The World Of Clamps
*I will be updating this over the next few weeks with additional clamps such as the newer ratcheting style spring clamps, etc.
Outline of issues addressed in order:
- What types of Clamps are there?
- How many Clamps do I need?
- What is an F-Clamp? What is a Bar Clamp?
- What is a Parallel Clamp, Parallel Jaw Clamp, “K-Body”, “Cabinet Master”, “Bessey”?
- What is a pipe Clamp? What is a "Pony" clamp?
- What is an Aluminum Bar Clamp?
- What is a Steel Bar Clamp ? What is an I-Beam Clamp?
- What is a Handscrew Clamp?
- What is a Quickgrip Clamp?
- What is a Miter Clamp?
- What is a Strap Clamp?
- What is a Spring Clamp?
- What is a Clamp Guide?
- I am a newbie, what’s the best clamps for me?
What types of clamps are there?
There is a whole world of clamps out there for practically every clamping need you will run into.
How many Clamps do I need? It’s pretty simple: as many clamps as your given project demands. Having said that, there is an old saying out there that you can never have too many clamps. While this is obviously an overstatement, it is generally accepted that you will frequently run across situations that even given the d... -
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Edge jointing large stock with a router.
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Edge jointing large stock with a router.
There has been much discussion about how to joint with a router. The often made assumption is that one does not have a jointer, thus requires use of a router for this task. I do have a jointer, but still edge joint with a router for long boards. I find it easier to control, and sometimes quicker. Moving large or long stock over a 6" jointer isn't always an accurate process. My method involves 4 items. - A router - doesn't really matter what one, but runnout is a concern here. - A flush trim router bit - a shear angle or spiral for curly stock. - A pattern bit - for wide stock, as explained below. - A straight edge - to guide... -
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Mortise and Loose Tenon video w/ plunge router.
Mortise and tenon is a hallmark of craftsmanship, but it doesn't have to be painful. This type of joint can be made easily with no "special" equipment, such as a mortiser, or a tenoning jig. There are as many ways to do M&T as there are to skin a cat ( I suppose, never skinned a cat though ). My personal favorite is mortise and loose tenon with my bosch plunge router. Mortise and loose tenon VS traditional mortise and tenon: The difference between these two joints is that with a loose tenon joint, you cut mortises on both pieces (apron and table leg, for instance), then you...
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