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  • Shopmade sanding blocks

    Shopmade sanding blocks

    Whilst cleaning up I found an old BT3central post by ejs1097 I printed out from a while back. I had forgotten about it. I made some changes and whipped out a few in a couple of evenings. What I liked about them was they hold the sandpaper tight and snug, the bought ones the paper works loose and sags and gets caught and tears. Also easy and cheap. Also has a square end for sanding into corners and a radius to do curves. I did modify the block so it used thicker stock (easier to hold) and put the ...
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  • BT3000 x 2 Frankensaw

    BT3000 x 2 Frankensaw

    Thanks to all of the great examples I saw on this forum, I decided that buying extension rails for my BT3000 would be silly when for less money I could find a used BT3000 to add to mine. Less money, and in addition to the rails I wanted, I had another complete saw, router table section, fence, sliding miter table, etc., and a far more useful saw overall. I really love some of the beautiful bases that some people have made for their Frankensaws, but I wanted to get the saws functioning to use for ...
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  • BT3000 Quick Fold Table and Manual

    BT3000 Quick Fold Table and Manual

    I have attached the manual for those who requested it. I found this a useful accessory. Its a fairly heavy table about the width of the BT3000 and maybe just a bit deeper than the top of the BT3. The front attaches to the rear rail at two points of the BT3 and has a slightly beveled front to that the workpeices coming off the saw don't catch. There's a hinge right behind the rear rail which fastens to the bottom of the rear rail via T-slot using T-nuts and bolts (the hinge is articulated so...
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  • Zero Clearance Throat Plates with Levelers

    Zero Clearance Throat Plates with Levelers

    Custom Zero-Clearance Throat Plates With Levelers It occurred to me almost instantly to tap out the 4 holes underneath the TP to a 10-24 thread. I had kind of cussed under my breath at the Ryobi factory for not tapping this there and adding the screws to my parts package. I also wondered why I hadn’t seen this adjustment in the manual. I guess that was not the their intended purpose. ...
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  • A Tenon Jig for the Ryobi BT3000

    A Tenon Jig for the Ryobi BT3000

    Originally Posted by Highland Hardware in the category Traditional Table Saw Jigs - BT3000 Style A multi-purpose tenon jig like the one shown here is easy to build and easy to use on the BT3000. The jig is designed to ride on the rip fence, providing the capability for sliding movement accurately parallel to the blade as well as very easy positioning for centered or offset tenons, lap joints and bridle joints. The vertical tenoning fence can be removed and replaced with a right-angle cradle for splining miters, either individual pieces or assembled frames. An H-2 toggle clamp (see the clamp section of our main catalog) secures stock quickly and releases it instantly after cutting. ...
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  • BT3x00 Wide Ripping Jig

    BT3x00 Wide Ripping Jig

    Without rail extensions the BT3x00 only rips up to a width of approximately 19". Unless of course you move the rails over, which means "re-calibrating" the rails afterwards. I put this jig together this afternoon and can now rip well beyond 24" in width. I shaped the bottom of the 3/4" thick slats so that the protrusion fit snugly in the upper slot of the front and rear rails. A shorter piece was screwed and glued to the end of those to raise the jig's fence so it will clear the auxiliary table. The ...
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  • JimD's Extension tables (with miter gauge slots)

    JimD's Extension tables (with miter gauge slots)

    One of the key disadvantages to the BT3000 and BT3100 is the very small surface areas to support wood being cut. This is obvious to anybody looking at these saws and probably contributes a lot to the fact that they did not sell at the volume their quality deserves. Fortunately, there is a relatively easy and inexpensive way to address this weakness - make yourself extension tables to increase the table size to whatever you need. I have used this construction method to make three tables so far. Th...
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  • Turning off BT3*00 from left side; another view

    Turning off BT3*00 from left side; another view

    After reading Ed62’s article I was invigorated. During my first use of my new 21829, I felt the need for left side turn off and Ed had supplied an answer. I sat before my saw and considered Ed’s solution. Good, but I thought I saw another approach. I wanted a switch that could be easily added or removed, one that interfered with saw function to a minimal extent and one that could be adjusted to eliminate any slop in my construction efforts. (This is important; I received my training as an electrical...
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  • Turning off BT3*00 from left side

    Turning off BT3*00 from left side

    After searching this site, and not being able to find an easy way to turn off the BT3*00 from the left side, I decided to post the very easy, very inexpensive, and quick solution I designed for mine. It is made from ¾” PVC pipe, elbows, a tee, and 2 short pieces of ¾” hardwood dowel. I did not glue the parts together, but they have a tight fit. If you prefer to use glue, please do, but make certain it will work (without modification), by dry fitting the assembly, and trying it before gluing. W...
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  • Drill Powered Drum Sander for BT3000

    Drill Powered Drum Sander for BT3000

    Drill Powered Drum Sander for BT3000 Designed by Jim Frye This setup is based on an old Portalign drill accessory and a 3/4” plywood router mounting plate. The Portalign is a useful little gadget, but adding the router plate gave it added stability. I didn’t have a drill press when I put this together, so this rig allowed me to sand curves in wood with better control than hand sanding. I routed a 1/2” deep recess in the under side of the plate to receive the Portalign base and used the two mounting holes in the base to secure it to the plate with flat head machine screws and nuts. Using the Portalign’s depth stop as a height adjuster, you can set the height of the sanding drum relative to the BT3K table. Note the four steel washers epoxied to the underside of the mounting plate to provide crush protection when the plate is bolted to the BT3K table. I believe the Portalign is no longer marketed, but Wolfcraft makes a modified version of a drill guide. ...
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  • Making a Polyethylene Featherboard

    Making a Polyethylene Featherboard

    Originally Posted by Don Hart in the category Fence Attachments Making a polyethylene featherboard By Don Hart You may have seen those plastic featherboards that are sold commercially at places like Woodworkers Warehouse or one of the online suppliers. They usually start at about $15 and the prices just go up from there. ...
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  • Articulated Dust Port Cover For the Ryobi BT3000 Table Saw

    Articulated Dust Port Cover For the Ryobi BT3000 Table Saw

    This accessory for the BT3000 (BT3K) is intended to complete the process to enclose the cabinet of the BT3K. The purpose of this exercise is twofold. First, by closing up as many of the large openings in the cabinet as possible, better dust extraction can be done within the shrouded blade area. This should also help keep dust out of the motor. Secondly, the more openings in that are closed, the less noise should escape and thus make the saw quieter to operate. The first part of this exercise was undertaken by creating a “belly pan” to close off the bottom of the cabinet and to collect any dust that didn’t get collected via the saw’s dust port. At that time, the triangular openings in the top front and rear of the cabinet were closed off and the vent slots on the left side of the cabinet were closed as well. This cover project will close off the remaining large opening leaving just the motor vent on the right side of the cabinet, the slot in the throat plate, and the crescent shaped slot in the front of the cabinet that the tilt/elevation hand wheel operates in....
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  • SMT Mounted Tenon Jig

    SMT Mounted Tenon Jig

    SMT Mounted Tenon Jig
    By Mark “Black Walnut” Stripes

    Since the Ryobi BT3 series of table saws does not have a miter slot users are forced to make their own tenon jigs. While building the first prototype I decided that the best way to make it move laterally was to attach it to the SMT using the front t-slot. This jig features micro-adjustment as well as adjustments for different angled tenons. ...
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  • Making a friction holder for miter slots

    Making a friction holder for miter slots

    Originally Posted by Don Hart in the category Fence Attachments

    We have all seen those holders made of plastic that when tightened expand and hold in the miter slot by friction. We the following instructions are how to easily make them yourself. These can be used for many purposed from holding a featherboard to holding a jig or anything else you can think of. ...
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  • Full Extension Hardwood Drawer Slides

    Full Extension Hardwood Drawer Slides

    Full Extension Hardwood Drawer Slides – By Mark Stripes

    This jig enhances safety while milling hardwood lower drawer slides. It is made out of 1⁄2" Baltic birch plywood. Overall dimensions are 10" by 21 3/4". I made a handle at the front edge out of a block of walnut 4/4 by 2" by 6" with a 1⁄2" cove for the grip section and a 1/4" round over on all top corners. The toggle clam hold down block is 1⁄2" by 2" by 6" with a slot 5/16" wide to allow for adjustment. The toggle clamp is held onto this block with 2 #10-32tpi x1/2" machine screws. On the back of this block 2 “t-nuts” are set in so as to be flush. The slot for the saw blade is 1/4" wide. The slots for the end hold down and the toggle clamp hold down are both 5/16" wide with a channel 1⁄2" wide centered just deep enough to capture the bolt heads. To cut these slots affix a fence to your panel, install a 5/16" bit into your router and cut the slot, then without moving the fence change to a 1⁄2" straight cutter, set your depth to the thickness of your bolt head, cut the 2nd slot. Remove the fence, and repeat for other slot. To mill the 1/4" slot set you fence on your router table so that the center of your 1/4" straight cutter is 9/16" from the fence. Mark your stock for where you want to begin and end the slot. Turn on router, align your starting mark with the bit and lower the panel onto the cutter, and cut until you reach the stop line. Allow a couple of inches on each end of this slot so that you will be able to use the edge of the jig to track against your rip fence while cutting the slides, as shown here: ...
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