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It occurred to me almost instantly to tap out the 4 holes underneath the TP to a 10-24 thread. I had kind of cussed under my breath at the Ryobi factory for not tapping this there and adding the screws to my parts package. I also wondered why I hadn’t seen this adjustment in the manual. I guess that was not the their intended purpose. Screw in 4 screws. I use stainless steel. Then you also drill your Tp’s for these holes. 3/16”is the drill size that I use. This can vary up or down some. Then using the 3 OEM screws, attach the plate and adjust it flush with the 4 screws. Even if you have countersunk your other plates in the 4-hole area, you can drill out the other three and still adjust it flush. If you have used thicker plates though, you may have a problem. Just cut some thinner.
I like to use 1⁄4” Lexan or Plexiglas. It mills easy, it’s strong, it’s thin enough, it’s readily available, and it’s see through. What more could you ask for.
Another tip is when I make the plunge cut for the ZCTP’s, I screw the new plate on top of the OEM plate using the 3 holes. This way you don’t have to worry about breaking belts.
Lee Styron
Leesty@gulftel.com
http://www.stytoons.f2s.com
Original PDF Document:
Lszctp.pdf
