Shopmade Rip Fence Micro-Adjust


  • Shopmade Rip Fence Micro-Adjust

    Rip Fence Micro-adjust – By Rod Kirby

    The reason this thing works, is because of Ryobi’s great Rip fence design. You only have to nudge the “T” end of the fence to move it – the far end is a smoothly moving roller. This is a “fiddly” project, so if you don’t enjoy working with small pieces of wood, leave now!

    Pics + Shop scenes at:

    • Scrap 1⁄4” plywood and hardwood,
    • 4 x 1” x No.6 screws,
    • 3 x 1⁄4-20 x 5/8” Brass knobs,
    • 3 x 1⁄4-20 dome nuts,
    • 3 x 3/16” washers,
    • 1⁄4-20 threaded rod,
    • 1⁄4-20 threaded stud with a rubber foot (I got this off a hold-down clamp).

    Measuring: Be brave, guys, buy a 6” rule with millimetres marked on the back (front for me), I can be more precise using mm’s.

    I started by measuring the height of the rip fence (sliding) base, and how deep my 1⁄4”-20 tap would reach. This gave me a hardwood size of 28mm high x 22mm thick. It so happens that the width of the top section of the front rail is also 28mm. Centering the 1⁄4”-20 threaded hole then, is 14mm in from the end and 14mm up off the rail. Cut the hardwood about 8” long, so you can work it comfortably.

    Start by drilling/tapping the hardwood. Then make up the rear plywood “clamp” pad – 40mm high x 75mm long. Drill and countersink the screw holes in the plywood. (Be careful locating the holes, otherwise you will hit the tapped hole). Then glue the pad to the hardwood and let it set (about 30 minutes). You can then clamp the hardwood “end” in a vise and drill and insert the 2 screws. Test fit what you have; for example, I had to cut a “hair” off the bottom edge of the plywood to let the hardwood seat properly on the rail. (Having a hardwood “handle” made this safe and easy to do).

    Clamp the assembly to the rail, and, using a try square (against the front of the rail), you can mark how long the hardwood needs to be – cut it to length.

    I made the plywood front pad 70mm high x 35mm wide. Locate the tapped hole for the stud as close to the hardwood as you can, making sure the rubber foot has clearance. Drill/tap the hole and drill/countersink the screw holes. Once again, glue the pad to the hardwood, let it set and then drill/insert the screws.

    The length of the stud is easy, it can’t be more than the length of the hardwood, otherwise you can’t get it into the threaded hole. I cut the threaded rod 130mm long, which left enough “finger” room to get at the brass knob at each end. In each case, of course, the brass knobs are the “lock nuts”.

    In action, you need very little clamping pressure to hold the assembly in place. Unlocking the rip fence, you’ll be amazed how easy it is to move – even with jigs mounted on the fence.

    Original PDF Document:

    Rip Fence Micro-adjust – By Rod Kirby 01

    Rip Fence Micro-adjust – By Rod Kirby 02

    Rip Fence Micro-adjust – By Rod Kirby 03

    Rip Fence Micro-adjust – By Rod Kirby 04

    Rip Fence Micro-adjust – By Rod Kirby 05

    Rip Fence Micro-adjust – By Rod Kirby 06
      Posting comments is disabled.

    Latest Articles


    • BT3000/BT3100 tall rip fence simple using fence clamps
      by LCHIEN
      BT3000 tall rip fence

      09-12-2021, 07:58 PM
      I have had a tall BT3000 fence for a number of years, I should have used it a few days ago but I didn't because it was too much trouble, And I paid the price as the tall item was a little unstable and I had a hard time controlling it as the two pieces separated and wallowed out a bigger kerf than I wanted at one place.

      Anyway the BT3000 tall fence is generally held on by the T-slots in the side of the rip fence. This is...
      10-20-2021, 03:27 AM
    • Extending rails/rail profiles
      by LCHIEN

      I am finally going to use my BT3000 extension rails.
      My objective is to have some easily attachable rail extensions rather than a full time wide BT3000 using two full rails taking up a lot of space and requiring table support under the right side as many do.
      I just want some wider support but not to do full 4x8 sheets of ply... if I need that, I'll break the sheet down on some sawhorses with a circ saw and some guides.

      I think I am going to cut my extension...
      08-14-2021, 11:32 AM
    • Thingamajig
      by Dedpedal
      One of my early attempts at making mallets had me thinking how badly things could end up if my piece got away from me while cutting so I came up with this little jig sled to secure my work while cutting a 30° bevel on the end of the head.
      A simple flat piece of 1/2” birch plywood with a fence squared to bot the sled and blade with gussets on one side and push type toggle clamps on the other. Right now I have to manually place the stop block with double sided tape but working on a t track...
      02-02-2021, 10:24 AM
    • LarryG's Dual-Width Extension Wing
      by LarryG
      Around the middle of 2006, I came up with an idea for an extension wing for my BT3100 table saw that solved some particular problems I had in my then-shop. The design worked well, and about a year later, on May 6, 2007, I started a thread on the old discussion forum and shared my design with the other members.

      I called it the Dual-Width Extension wing, and you can see it here:

      Almost immediately,...
      02-01-2021, 02:10 PM
    • Shopmade sanding blocks
      by LCHIEN
      Whilst cleaning up I found an old BT3central post by ejs1097 I printed out from a while back. I had forgotten about it.

      I made some changes and whipped out a few in a couple of evenings.
      What I liked about them was they hold the sandpaper tight and snug, the bought ones the paper works loose and sags and gets caught and tears.
      Also easy and cheap. Also has a square end for sanding into corners and a radius to do curves. I did modify the block so it used thicker stock...
      12-17-2015, 09:41 PM
    • BT3000 x 2 Frankensaw
      by rickschuster
      Thanks to all of the great examples I saw on this forum, I decided that buying extension rails for my BT3000 would be silly when for less money I could find a used BT3000 to add to mine. Less money, and in addition to the rails I wanted, I had another complete saw, router table section, fence, sliding miter table, etc., and a far more useful saw overall. I really love some of the beautiful bases that some people have made for their Frankensaws, but I wanted to get the saws functioning to use for ...
      04-29-2015, 09:51 AM

    The SawdustZone Statistics


    Topics: 60,756   Posts: 553,992   Members: 20,176   Active Members: 46
    Welcome to our newest member, gmarsden.

    What's Going On


    There are currently 274 users online. 8 members and 266 guests.

    Most users ever online was 5,056 at 04:15 AM on 01-19-2020.