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Fence Attachments x

  • Wide Crosscut Fence For The BT3000

    Wide Crosscut Fence For The BT3000

    Wide Crosscut Fence for BT3000
    Designed by Jim Frye
    This fence is used to extend the crosscut capacity of the Sliding Miter Table (SMT) from 16 inches to 23 1⁄2 inches. The design was originally done to address a question someone had asked on the Ryobi toolforum about cross cutting wide panels. After several people had attempted to add a fence to the front edge of the SMT and had drilled holes in the table to do so, some folks argued that there ought to be a way to accomplish the mounting of the fence without defacing the SMT table. When I started thinking about this design problem, it occurred to me that ...
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  • The OZ/YANK Router Fence

    The OZ/YANK Router Fence

    Originally Posted by Rod Kirby and Randy Atkinson The OZ/YANK Router Fence By Rod Kirby & Randy Atkinson Rod made the brackets and sent them to me. I modified the rear one to slide past Quick- Fold Outfeed Table. I trimmed 1⁄4" off the bottom of the back and cut 1⁄4 slots, so the bracket could slide up and down over the bolts attached to the rear rail. The fence is 1" MDF (back) 37" L X 4" H, with 3⁄4" face of MDF and Rockler High Density Plastic. The base is Baltic Birch 21 3⁄4" X 6", that is rabbetted into MDF. It has four hardwood supports...
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  • Shopmade Rip Fence Micro-Adjust

    Shopmade Rip Fence Micro-Adjust

    Rip Fence Micro-adjust – By Rod Kirby

    The reason this thing works, is because of Ryobi’s great Rip fence design. You only have to nudge the “T” end of the fence to move it – the far end is a smoothly moving roller. ...
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  • Ryobi BT3000 Stop Block Construction Notes

    Ryobi BT3000 Stop Block Construction Notes

    Ryobi BT3000 Stop Block Construction Notes By Jim Frye
    1. Begin by cutting four pieces of 3⁄4-inch thick stock 2-1/4 inches square. The stop block will be stronger if it is made from plywood, but any hard wood will work satisfactorily.
    2. Glue the four blocks together, clamping until the glue has cured. It is easier to glue two blocks together and then join the two glue-ups together after the first glue-up has cured. If the block is being made from plywood, rotate the plys so that every ply is 90 degrees to the next ply on the adjoining block. If the block is being made from solid hardwood, orient the grain so that all four blocks are the aligned the same.
    ...
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  • Ryobi BT3000 Router Fence Construction Notes

    Ryobi BT3000 Router Fence Construction Notes

    Ryobi BT3000 Router Fence Construction Notes Design by Jim Frye

    This router fence is designed for use with the Ryobi BT3000 rip fence. It is essentially a hollow wooden box that attaches to the top T-slots of the rip fence and encloses the router bit that is mounted in the BT3K accessory table. The fence has a chip collection port at the right end of the fence to be used with a 2 1/2”diameter shop vac hose. The fence also has an adjustable guard for the bit opening, a 6”high fence for handling vertical work pieces and for clamping hold downs, and threaded inserts in the fence face for the attachment of accessory jigs like a pivot pin or a jointer fence. The rip fence remains usable with this router fence mounted. ...
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  • Notes On "Ripstrate" Used With The Ryobi BT3000

    Notes On "Ripstrate" Used With The Ryobi BT3000

    Originally Posted by Charlie Oppeneimer in the category Fence Attachments

    Notes on "Ripstrate" used with Ryobi BT3000

    Charlie Oppenheimer (charlio1@pacbell.net)
    Feb, 2001

    The Ripstrate is a nice tablesaw add-on (www.trend-lines.com, part # RS1, $39.95). It does three things: Holds the work down, pulls the work towards straight towards the rip fence and provides modest anti- kickback protection. I had previously used “Board Buddies”, but have since abandoned their use in favor of this solution. ...
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  • Making a Polyethylene Featherboard

    Making a Polyethylene Featherboard

    Originally Posted by Don Hart in the category Fence Attachments

    Making a polyethylene featherboard By Don Hart

    You may have seen those plastic featherboards that are sold commercially at places like Woodworkers Warehouse or one of the online suppliers. They usually start at about $15 and the prices just go up from there. ...
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  • Making a friction holder for miter slots

    Making a friction holder for miter slots

    Originally Posted by Don Hart in the category Fence Attachments

    We have all seen those holders made of plastic that when tightened expand and hold in the miter slot by friction. We the following instructions are how to easily make them yourself. These can be used for many purposed from holding a featherboard to holding a jig or anything else you can think of. ...
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  • Hold-In Featherboard

    Hold-In Featherboard

    You’ve got Hold-down, now here’s Hold-In – so simple to make! By Rod Kirby Woodhaven Hold in part #212 (page Fall 1999 catalogue). I located this as shown, so that you can’t make a mistake and place it too far forward – it’ll pinch the timber. To mount it, extend the SMT all the way towards you – left hand bolt is 3/8” (perfect fit in the SMT hole), right hand bolt is 5/16”. Finger pressure on the head of the 3/8” bolt holds it enough to tighten the knob. Make sure you lock the SMT down before you tighten the knobs. Obviously, if you need more space to the left of the blade, move the rails to the left. As it is you’ve got around 8” of L-R movement. If you want to use it on th...
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  • High Fence for Dado and Panel Raising

    High Fence for Dado and Panel Raising

    High Fence for Dado and Panel Raising Designed by Jim Frye

    This fence was built for supporting a sacrificial face attached to the rip fence for dado and rabbit work. By making the right side face tall also, this fence can be used to make raised panels by setting the fence on the left side of the blade. The fence is 24” long, but could be longer to provide more support beyond the blade. The fence is 6” tall and has four partitions to hold the faces parallel. This fence is held on the rip fence by two strips of wood that ride in the T-slots in both sides of the rip fence. This one was made from 3/4” hard maple, but plywood would be more stable, especially if it wasn’t finished like this one is. The fence was built up on the rip fence to ensure that it was square with the fence. Be sure to wax the rip fence before doing any glue so that the dried glue won’t stick to the aluminum and to make it easier to remove the high fence later. There are no drawings for this jig. It was built following the basic design of the tenon jig I designed. See the pictures below for the orientation of the parts. ...
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  • BT3000 Rip Fence Featherboard Add-On

    BT3000 Rip Fence Featherboard Add-On

    Originally Posted by Fred Hutchinson in the category Fence Attachments

    I have constructed an add-on to my BT3000 rip fence to hold two featherboards. I will eventually get around to making my own feather boards, making this is truly a hand made jig. For now, I will use the plastic feather boards from Bench Dog (www.benchdog.com).

    I used toilet T bolts and then epoxy to secure a washer then had to do a little grinding on the bench grinder to get a good fit for the slot on top of the rip fence. I got the aluminum T slot from WoodPeckers (www.woodpeck.com). ...
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  • Another Polyethylene Featherboard

    Another Polyethylene Featherboard

    Originally Posted by Don Hart in the category Fence Attachments

    This is the second featherboard I have designed to be made out of a Polyethylene cutting board. The first one was large and used almost the entire cutting board and was designed to mount on the SMT. This one uses less than 1⁄4 of the cutting board and is designed to be able to be mounted to fences of in the miter slot with a Polyethylene slot holder. ...
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