No announcement yet.

Ryobi BT3000 Stop Block Construction Notes


  • Ryobi BT3000 Stop Block Construction Notes

    Ryobi BT3000 Stop Block Construction Notes By Jim Frye
    1. Begin by cutting four pieces of 3⁄4-inch thick stock 2-1/4 inches square. The stop block will be stronger if it is made from plywood, but any hard wood will work satisfactorily.
    2. Glue the four blocks together, clamping until the glue has cured. It is easier to glue two blocks together and then join the two glue-ups together after the first glue-up has cured. If the block is being made from plywood, rotate the plys so that every ply is 90 degrees to the next ply on the adjoining block. If the block is being made from solid hardwood, orient the grain so that all four blocks are the aligned the same.
    3. Using the table saw, rip the blocks to 2 inches square.
    4. Drill a 5/16-inch hole through the stop block from front to back.
    5. If the stop block is being made from solid hardwood and not plywood, mark 1/4 “ x 7/8”rabbits on each side of the back of the block so the remaining 1/4”by 1/4” rib is in line with the grain of the block for strength. Another way of putting this is the grain should run from the body of the block out through the rib. If the stop block is being made from plywood, the alternating plys will provide the strength for the rib.
    6. Cut the two rabbits on the back of the block. This will leave the 1/4”by 1/4”rib that will fit into the T-slot in the faces of the fences.
    7. Epoxy a 1⁄4-inch plain washer on the face of the stop block centered on the hole that was drilled earlier. This will serve as a bearing surface for the locking knob.
    8. The knob is made by scribing a 1-1/2”circle on a piece of 3⁄4-inch plywood. Mark the circle into eight equal segments. Drill a 1⁄4-inch hole at all eight intersections of the circle and at the center. Counter bore the center hole to accept a 1/4 x 20 hex nut. Band or jig saw out the knob. Mount the knob on a 1/4 x 20 machine screw and chuck it into a drill or drill press. Sand the knob smooth and round. Un-mount the knob and epoxy a 1/4 x 20 hex nut into the counter bore. Also epoxy a 1⁄4-inch plain washer on the back of the knob.
    9. A T-bolt can be made by narrowing the head of a regular 1/4 x20x2 1⁄2 inch long hex bolt. Grind or file two opposing flats on the bolt head until the bolt slips into the T-slot on the fences.
    10. Thread the stop block onto the T-bolt with the stop block rib facing the head of the bolt and screw on the knob with the washers facing each other.
    11. The stop block is now ready for use on the BT3000.
    Original PDF Document:

    Ryobi BT3000 Stop Block Construction Notes By Jim Frye 03

    Ryobi BT3000 Stop Block Construction Notes By Jim Frye 01

    Ryobi BT3000 Stop Block Construction Notes By Jim Frye 02
      Posting comments is disabled.

    Latest Articles


    • Shopmade sanding blocks
      by LCHIEN
      Whilst cleaning up I found an old BT3central post by ejs1097 I printed out from a while back. I had forgotten about it. I made some changes and whipped out a few in a couple of evenings. What I liked about them was they hold the sandpaper tight and snug, the bought ones the paper works loose and sags and gets caught and tears. Also easy and cheap. Also has a square end for sanding into corners and a radius to do curves. I did modify the block so it used thicker stock (easier to hold) and put the ...
      12-17-2015, 10:41 PM
    • BT3000 x 2 Frankensaw
      by rickschuster
      Thanks to all of the great examples I saw on this forum, I decided that buying extension rails for my BT3000 would be silly when for less money I could find a used BT3000 to add to mine. Less money, and in addition to the rails I wanted, I had another complete saw, router table section, fence, sliding miter table, etc., and a far more useful saw overall. I really love some of the beautiful bases that some people have made for their Frankensaws, but I wanted to get the saws functioning to use for ...
      04-29-2015, 10:51 AM
    • BT3000 Quick Fold Table and Manual
      by LCHIEN
      I have attached the manual for those who requested it. I found this a useful accessory. Its a fairly heavy table about the width of the BT3000 and maybe just a bit deeper than the top of the BT3. The front attaches to the rear rail at two points of the BT3 and has a slightly beveled front to that the workpeices coming off the saw don't catch. There's a hinge right behind the rear rail which fastens to the bottom of the rear rail via T-slot using T-nuts and bolts (the hinge is articulated so...
      04-29-2015, 10:39 AM
    • BT3x00 Wide Ripping Jig
      by big tim
      Without rail extensions the BT3x00 only rips up to a width of approximately 19". Unless of course you move the rails over, which means "re-calibrating" the rails afterwards. I put this jig together this afternoon and can now rip well beyond 24" in width. I shaped the bottom of the 3/4" thick slats so that the protrusion fit snugly in the upper slot of the front and rear rails. A shorter piece was screwed and glued to the end of those to raise the jig's fence so it will clear the auxiliary table. The ...
      04-29-2015, 10:37 AM
    • Link to Suwat's Articles
      by dkerfoot
      Some really great BT3-Centric Jigs and other goodies:

      04-29-2015, 10:35 AM
    • JimD's Extension tables (with miter gauge slots)
      by JimD
      One of the key disadvantages to the BT3000 and BT3100 is the very small surface areas to support wood being cut. This is obvious to anybody looking at these saws and probably contributes a lot to the fact that they did not sell at the volume their quality deserves. Fortunately, there is a relatively easy and inexpensive way to address this weakness - make yourself extension tables to increase the table size to whatever you need. I have used this construction method to make three tables so far. Th...
      04-29-2015, 10:26 AM