No announcement yet.

Ryobi BT3000 Router Fence Construction Notes


  • Ryobi BT3000 Router Fence Construction Notes

    Ryobi BT3000 Router Fence Construction Notes Design by Jim Frye

    This router fence is designed for use with the Ryobi BT3000 rip fence. It is essentially a hollow wooden box that attaches to the top T-slots of the rip fence and encloses the router bit that is mounted in the BT3K accessory table. The fence has a chip collection port at the right end of the fence to be used with a 2 1/2”diameter shop vac hose. The fence also has an adjustable guard for the bit opening, a 6”high fence for handling vertical work pieces and for clamping hold downs, and threaded inserts in the fence face for the attachment of accessory jigs like a pivot pin or a jointer fence. The rip fence remains usable with this router fence mounted.

    The original fence was constructed of 3/4”plywood from a computer-shipping pallet, but any stabile wood will do just fine. The fence was first glued together and then the joints were reinforced with 1 1/4”long drywall screws. The screws were countersunk and puttied over. Cutting out all of the parts for the fence began construction. Everything was then dry fitted together to ensure that it all fit properly and produced a form that is all 90 degree joints. Once everything was correct, the box was glued up one joint at a time using the other parts for clamping as necessary. Before doing any glue up, thoroughly clean and wax the saw’s rip fence and tables. This will keep glue from adhering to the saw parts, as they will be used as guides during the assembly process. Before gluing up the parts, it will be easier to install all of the threaded inserts in the various parts.

    Start the assembly process by gluing the mounting shelf to the back of the router fence. Glue and clamp this assembly to the rip fence to ensure that the two are absolutely square and tight to the fence. Then add the three braces by gluing them in place. When this assembly is dry, remove it from the rip fence and reinforce all of the joints with drywall screws.

    The next step is to glue the bottom of the fence to the side that is against the rip fence. You can put a piece of plastic wrap on the saw table to keep the glue off of it if you wish. Clamp the two pieces together while insuring that the two are tight against the rip fence and the tabletop. Next glue in the ends and interior pieces. Follow that by gluing in the top of the router fence. When this joint has set up, add the front or fence face piece, making sure it is perpendicular to the accessory table. When all of these joints are fully cured, drill, countersink and install the screws that will reinforce the joints.

    The guard is simply a piece of 1/4”plywood, phenolic, or lexan with a 1/8”thick semicircular piece of Plexiglas epoxied and screwed to the end of the guard plate. As an additional safety feature, paint the edge of the plastic guard and the bit opening in the fence with some bright red or orange paint.

    If you wish, you can sand and finish the router fence with at least a couple of coats of polyurethane varnish. Jigs really look professional if they are finished like furniture, but that is up to the user. The mounting hardware was made from two 3/8" steel plain washers, two 1/4”x 3”flat head machine screws, two 1/4”hex nuts, two 1/4” plain steel washers, and two 1/4”wing nuts. The 3/8”washers have one side of their hole chamfered to match the flat heads of the bolts. The washers are then epoxied, brazed, or welded to the heads of the bolts. This makes a wide flange T-bolt that will slide into and grip the T-slot in the top of the saw’s rip fence. These T-bolts are then threaded into the threaded inserts in the router fence shelf from underneath. The 1/4” plain steel washers are epoxied to the top of the shelf where the T-bolts come through to provide a wear surface for the wing nuts to bear on. Thread the wing nuts onto the T-bolts and epoxy the hex nuts onto the ends of the T-bolts. This makes the wing nuts captive and gives the operator a finger hold to tighten the T-bolts in place. The wing nuts serve as lock nuts once the router fence is locked into position on the rip fence. If the rip fence/router fence assembly moves while in use, back it up with a quick grip clamp clamped to the saw’s front and rear rails to keep the router fence from moving away from the bit due to side pressure.

    Original PDF Document:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	rtrfncnotes0004.jpg Views:	1 Size:	88.8 KB ID:	834360

    Click image for larger version  Name:	rtrfncnotes0001.jpg Views:	1 Size:	119.5 KB ID:	834358

    Click image for larger version  Name:	rtrfncnotes0002.jpg Views:	1 Size:	157.5 KB ID:	834359

    Click image for larger version  Name:	rtrfncnotes0003.jpg Views:	1 Size:	134.2 KB ID:	834357
      Posting comments is disabled.

    Latest Articles


    • Shopmade sanding blocks
      by LCHIEN
      Whilst cleaning up I found an old BT3central post by ejs1097 I printed out from a while back. I had forgotten about it. I made some changes and whipped out a few in a couple of evenings. What I liked about them was they hold the sandpaper tight and snug, the bought ones the paper works loose and sags and gets caught and tears. Also easy and cheap. Also has a square end for sanding into corners and a radius to do curves. I did modify the block so it used thicker stock (easier to hold) and put the ...
      12-17-2015, 10:41 PM
    • BT3000 x 2 Frankensaw
      by rickschuster
      Thanks to all of the great examples I saw on this forum, I decided that buying extension rails for my BT3000 would be silly when for less money I could find a used BT3000 to add to mine. Less money, and in addition to the rails I wanted, I had another complete saw, router table section, fence, sliding miter table, etc., and a far more useful saw overall. I really love some of the beautiful bases that some people have made for their Frankensaws, but I wanted to get the saws functioning to use for ...
      04-29-2015, 10:51 AM
    • BT3000 Quick Fold Table and Manual
      by LCHIEN
      I have attached the manual for those who requested it. I found this a useful accessory. Its a fairly heavy table about the width of the BT3000 and maybe just a bit deeper than the top of the BT3. The front attaches to the rear rail at two points of the BT3 and has a slightly beveled front to that the workpeices coming off the saw don't catch. There's a hinge right behind the rear rail which fastens to the bottom of the rear rail via T-slot using T-nuts and bolts (the hinge is articulated so...
      04-29-2015, 10:39 AM
    • BT3x00 Wide Ripping Jig
      by big tim
      Without rail extensions the BT3x00 only rips up to a width of approximately 19". Unless of course you move the rails over, which means "re-calibrating" the rails afterwards. I put this jig together this afternoon and can now rip well beyond 24" in width. I shaped the bottom of the 3/4" thick slats so that the protrusion fit snugly in the upper slot of the front and rear rails. A shorter piece was screwed and glued to the end of those to raise the jig's fence so it will clear the auxiliary table. The ...
      04-29-2015, 10:37 AM
    • Link to Suwat's Articles
      by dkerfoot
      Some really great BT3-Centric Jigs and other goodies:

      04-29-2015, 10:35 AM
    • JimD's Extension tables (with miter gauge slots)
      by JimD
      One of the key disadvantages to the BT3000 and BT3100 is the very small surface areas to support wood being cut. This is obvious to anybody looking at these saws and probably contributes a lot to the fact that they did not sell at the volume their quality deserves. Fortunately, there is a relatively easy and inexpensive way to address this weakness - make yourself extension tables to increase the table size to whatever you need. I have used this construction method to make three tables so far. Th...
      04-29-2015, 10:26 AM