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Top 1-1⁄4” MDF,
Ends 1⁄4” plywood,
“Packing” 1/8” MDF.
10 x 1” x NO.8 C/S screws.
4 x “User kit” knobs/nuts,
4 x 5/16” fender washers. Notes:
- Measuring up – there’s no easy way. For example, my rails were 1/16” further apart at the end, than close to the saw – I was able to leave the table square, and “pull” the ends in. Locating the stud holes is a matter of test fitting and trial and error (on scrap pieces). I chose to rabbet the ends into the table, for a clear table surface.
- Do not glue the ends on until everything fits OK. This will let you make any adjustments, while you still can!
- The ends cannot be more than 1⁄4” thick, using the “User kit” knobs and flat nuts.
- The back edge is inset by 1/8” (MDF) to allow clearance for the back end of the rip fence. Because of this, you need to counter-bore 1-3/8” dia holes 1/8” deep, to allow the knobs to “grab” the nuts (the flange on the knobs is 1-1⁄4”, the larger dia. gives you room to move). The knob stud holes are 3/8” dia., not 5/16, to allow for table height adjustment.
- When sawing the grooves (round all the edges first), start by making the first cut dead center of the table. Move the table to the left and place a 3⁄4” (say) wood strip between the table and the rip fence. Holding the table steady, remove the strip and carefully slide the rip fence up to the table. (I found this easiest with the table on the far side of the saw blade). Make a cut and then swing the table around, end-for-end, and make the second cut. Repeat this process until you get close to each edge. Equally spaced groves – no sweat!
- I finished the table with clear acrylic and, of course, a coat of Johnson’s wax.
ExtnTable.pdf