Step 1: double un-plug saw at outlet and onboard outlet. Remove throat plate, Sharkguard, Big dog clamp, and splitter (or the stock POS [


Step 2: remove left side cover and dust shroud.

Step 3: remove the four screws as marked with the arrows in the following pic

Step 4: remove the other two screws and pull the guide holder off.

You should now be able to swing the motor assembly back slightly from the locker bracket.

Step 5: Remove rear shims


Note the shape of the rear shims above. Also note that the holes are offset and the holes go towards the arbor and the tabs hang over the motor's ears.
Step 8: Clean all parts with a rag. If you find real stuborn pitch build up feel free to use paint thinner or the like.

Next picture shows the guide holder, and all four shims. Note the orientation of the front shims.

At this point is may be helpfull to remove the right side cover to gain access to the motor. It may also be a great time to inspect and lube the elevation shaft and bevel gears along with the bevel mechanism.
Step 9: Carefully set the rear shims in place and swing the motor assembly up against the locker bracket.
Step 10: Place the two front shims onto the guide holder and place the guide holder in place. It may help to hold the shims in place with small pieces of tape on the tabs (just remember to remove the tape before final tightening.)
Step 11: Start the four long screws removed in step 3 but only enough to start the guide holder onto the arbor bearing. Tighten evenly until the other two smaller screws will reach the plate behind the bearing. (now would be a good time to remove any tape that you used to keep the shims in place!)
Step 12: Evenly tighten the two bearing retaing screws which should pull the bearing to full seat into the guide holder.
Step 13: Evenly tighten up the four screws.
Step 14: Check function of elevation and bevel wheel. It should work smoothly up and down. Lube the shim mating surfaces. I use the pictured spray lube that dries, others have used candle wax.

Step 15: If everything works fine you are done. If not take it back apart and start over. You may have to adjust your shim set screws. This article has instructions for this; it may also be valuable reading since it covers this topic also. Once you are satisfied that everything works as it should replace the dust shroud and side cover(s). Plug saw back in and enjoy.
If you are replacing your shims due to the tabs breaking I strongly recommend that you read Norm in Fujino's Shim Supports page and consider making and installing some on your saw. I'm on my third set of shims and since making shim supports have not had any more shim problems. Norm in Fujino is one of this site's Charter members. He's been very busy with his work last I heard, hopefully he's still doing well. Update March 20, 2017. It seems Norm's page is no longer to be found. Update 8-31-18: We can all thank twistsol for saving a copy of the original article of Norm's https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...e-ryobi-bt3000
I was looking for info on removing / checking the motor on my BT 3100. Got a little too fast for too long with the feed rate. Probably spent 3 hrs disassembling the saw and finally Googled the subject and found this site. So much good info!!! Your detailed explanations and photos made this a much easier task. Only wish I had checked it out before I started! Thanks again to you and all the other contributors for taking the time and effort to help a lot of us out of a jam.
First time in 15 years with my BT3000 for shim replacement. One fell out and the other was split. I added the Tab support that Norm (in Fujino) first recommended years ago.
I was in the middle of a project and went to move my saw back into place for storage and I saw a shim laying on the floor. Tab bent straight. Next day, I needed to use my dado blade. The saw raised up fine in spite of one shim being off. The other shim was sticking up about an inch and split and curled.
I was able to finish the dado without a problem before needing to add shims. I did have one little glitch - the plate did not want to come off by hand tugging. I had to wedge a screw driver to get it to break away in order to add the new shim. 15 years of not being apart showed!
Thanks to Mark and Norms suggestion, it is working fine.