Building a cabinet for my router table

**LCHIEN** · 04-15-2023, 02:24 AM

Are you planning for the whole table to the that top or are you planning to set that top into a larger table top for more working area?
What is the dimension for that top now?

My initial thought is that it looks too small and if you are building stuff, using a real router mounting plate will be more satisfactory and flexible down the road.

I'm also wanting to know if this is a on the cheap project or are you willing to spend money and or effort to do it right.
I find it is satisfying to use my router on projects and its so much easier to use with a proper table and fence setup.

I went thru three table-setups. One was a stamped benchtop craftsman table that was kind of small, it had extension wings but I could never get them completely flat and flush with the table.
Next I built a fold up stand under a woodpeckers top with a woodpeckers plate. In 20-some years I never folded the stand up to put away. I mounted my Bosch with the Bosch table mount base which allowed fine height adjustment from above, but coarse adjustment, changing bits, and locking height required reaching under the table a lot... I then used my 1/4" collet craftsman mounted in the BT3 aux table for bevels and roundovers (all using the bearing bit, no fence) but then I got a router raiser from Jessem that I can do everything from above and now I am happy doing all the chamfer/bevel and roundover on the table. So I no longer use the BT3 to mount the a router.

**nicer20** · 04-15-2023, 10:24 AM

Hi Loring,

My plan is to use that top as the whole top of the rolling cabinet underneath. The top is 32"x16". Are you recommending a working area even larger than that?

Here is how I arrived at current situation -

I was using my, then only router Ryobi R165U mounted to BT3 aux table using a homemade plywood mounting plate. I didn't have any router mounting kit for my saw. I also made a simple fence - a single piece with slot cut out for bits & attached to the saw rip fence using two HF clamps. The whole setup was crude, but it was way better than handling the router handheld. Admittedly, it had a lot of shortcomings. First changing bits or adjusting the height was a big PITA. I didn't have any throat plates so was using some homemade throat inserts - again far from ideal or convenient. Last but not least, the plywood mount (1/2") and the way the BT3 aux table hole is, that whole setup was eating a lot of the height budget of the bits. Many times I couldn't do cuts I would want to.

So early last year I bought this Ryobi table. It comes with a much nicer fence, a better dust collection (yeah, I forgot to mention that my BT3 mounted setup was spewing sawdust everywhere as I never got down to building any dust collection contraptions). Also equally importantly, better than the plywood mount, if not the best mount in the world. It also came with various sizes of throat inserts, a miter slot in the fence and table (although I haven't used either yet), a starting pin etc. I used it a couple of times before realizing that adjusting the bit height and changing the bits is still some PITA.

So a few months later (middle of the last year) I bought the Bosch 1617EVSPK kit - remember our discussion buying an anniversary gift for oneself

. And then the back injury hit me so never got down to using it yet. Among many upgrades this kit will provide me (eventually when I get to use it), one that is sought after the most, from a table mounted perspective, is an ability to adjust height from the top of the table. I will still need to drill a hole in the plate, but the router came with a hex T wrench that allows this operation. Also, on this router the motor comes off easily without struggling to remove the whole assembly in case I need to change the bit.

Anyways, bottom line is most of this is what I am looking forward to and haven't had a chance to use the table. However, as I recover and start going back in the shop/garage, I find the table is quite heavy for me to lift around. It is also bulky, and I don't have nice way to store it. Even when I used the table a couple times early last year, one more thing I had noticed was the height isn't something that suited me. If I kept it on my workbench the height was too high and if I used the table placing on ground, it was killing my back and knees.

So here I am trying to rectify the situation. My current thinking behind building a rolling cabinet with this top is -

Get the table maneuverable around the shop - avoid lifting things as much possible.
Get the operating surface at a comfortable height.
In general, try to increase storage space in a more manageable format.

May be in future I will also seek one of those nicer router lifts (Jessem etc.) but currently it is unjustifiable $$ wise and also given how I haven't got any practical usage out of this table either. Again for the later, I am assuming this table isn't all that useless.

BTW I am planning the height of the total assembly to equal 38" which is what my BT3100 is at. So I can use this table as an infeed or use the table saw surface as an extension for any longer routing jobs.

Sorry for a long winded reply but just wanted to share my rationale. Please feel free to comment &/or criticize. I learn a lot from you all wise and generous people here.

- nicer

**LCHIEN** · 04-16-2023, 01:35 AM

So the Ryobi table will be the whole table top. Does the Ryobi router mount directly to the table or to an insert that mounts to the table?

Are you planning to put the Bosch 1617 into this table?

I made my router table 38" high similar to my BT3000, I find that a good detail working height for me at 5' 6".

One comment I have is that is this a hobby to save money or is it a hobby to get maximum enjoyment out of working with tools and making stuff? One can be too thrifty and then (A) put up with sub optimal equipment and then (B) spend more money the second time around buying or building stuff that should have been built the first time, or continue putting up with what you have and regretting it every time its used. I am guilty of that.

**twistsol** · 04-16-2023, 08:03 AM

I must be getting old because it seems that I'm about fifteen years further down this exact path. I started with a bench top Craftsman router table very similar to your Ryobi setup but with a tiny table top and a fence that was a joke, then a saw mounted router table with a crappy fence, but it was large enough that I could do raised panels without abject terror, upgraded the fence on that and it was pretty nice. except dust collection wasn't great.

My current router table I've had since 2007 and built the cabinet for it years later Here is my review of the table and the cabinet photos can be seen here and the video of build idea can be seen below.

The width of your table top on the router table at 32" is definitely sufficient. Mine is 39" x 27" and I've never been wanting for space. The only time clearance at the rear comes in to play, for me at least is when I'm fluting wide pilasters but I do most of those with a handheld router now anyway.

Drawers for storage are essential. The top right drawer in mine has all the wrenches, hex driver, depth gauge, and rings and collets. the other 5 smaller drawers are dedicated to router bits, 12" on the left and 14" inch on the right. The drawers on the bottom hold my dovetail jig, and feather boards and other router related stuff like edge guides that don't get used at the router table, but are there to help my feeble mind find them.

Figure out what a comfortable height is for you to work the way you work. My router table is at 920mm (~36.25") high, 20mm higher than every other work surface height in my shop.

Sommerfeld Router Tables Made Easy (Note that this is as much a sales video as a how to video the cabinet build starts about 16 minutes in to the video)

It bears a striking resemblance to Norm Abrams router table design from a ~2004 episode.

Norm Abrams Router Table

**capncarl** · 04-16-2023, 09:34 AM

2x what LCHIEN says! If it’s for a seldom used hobby tool thats one thing, but if you intend on using it more than occasionally that’s different. It follows the old wise man’s statement about table saws…. Buy your last tablesaw first! You can fill up a small shop with all the router table upgrades discussed in this forum and spend more money than it would cost to buy a good router table.

When I upgraded my Powermatic 64 contractor saw that had a router table and Jessum lift in the extension to a SawStop CTS with all cast iron tops I went ahead and bit the bullet and added the cast iron router table to the end with a sawstop Router lift and SawStop router fence. I was fed up with pieced together router tables, cheaply made router lifts and woefully inadequate fences.

**LCHIEN** · 04-16-2023, 01:37 PM

Originally posted by LCHIEN

So the Ryobi table will be the whole table top. Does the Ryobi router mount directly to the table or to an insert that mounts to the table?

Are you planning to put the Bosch 1617 into this table?

I made my router table 38" high similar to my BT3000, I find that a good detail working height for me.

One comment I have is that is this a hobby to save money or is it a hobby to get maximum enjoyment out of working with tools and making stuff? One can be too thrifty and then (A) put up with sub optimal equipment and then (B) spend more money the second time around buying or building stuff that should have been built the first time, or continue putting up with what you have and regretting it every time its used. I am guilty of that.

Looking at the Ryobi table manual, the Plate has holes designed to match the Bosch 1617 fixed base. And I understand you need to locate and drill the hole to allow above the table adjustments.

**leehljp** · 04-16-2023, 05:18 PM

I noticed that Loring's table dimensions include 38" high. I am 5'10" and made mine 41" high. For routing and good control, elbow height are the best. There are three heights that are ideal for different kinds of work:
1. lower for power use of legs for heavy things such as thickness planing.
2. mid level such as table saw: a mix of power and control. Some bandsaw re-saw would be in this category.
3. elbow level for precision control such as router, scroll saw, some band saw in delicate cuttings. (Note: some people use their scroll saw at a level close to a TS height - 35"- 38", (corrected) but since scroll sawing is often time consuming, many scrollers sit while cutting, and the need for higher is negated.

I made the one below when I was working in Japan. Too big to bring back home but I did bring all of the innards and tools; Made another router table almost identical once back home. Only exception is that I made two equal compartments for each router. The reason I wanted 2 routers installed is that I often got into a situation with rail and stile (and other situation) in which I needed one router to be at a set height and then need to make a different cut and back to the original cut. It sure helps to have one dedicated to a set height throughout a project and another to use as needed in the middle of the project.

In the table below, I had the vac sucking the sawdust out through a chamber that can be seen in the middle compartment on the bottom in the back, AND through the fence most of the time. On my new one, I eliminated the bottom and just use a vac sucking through the fence. It works well enough.

Attached Files

**mpc** · 04-17-2023, 05:10 AM

Only you can decide if the existing Ryobi table is large enough for the work you do now and what you think you might do in the future. My gut reaction though is it seems wide enough but is maybe too shallow front-to-back. And how thick is it? You might consider building a box on wheels that is about the width of the Ryobi table but is deeper front-to-back... Then mount the Ryobi table to the box with space both in front of it and behind it that you can fill in with plywood or other filler strips to make a larger work surface. Just screw the Ryobi table and the filler strips to the box; that way in the future if you decide to get a different tabletop you can re-use the cabinet/box.

If that funky shaped insert plate will accept the Bosch 1617 fixed base, that is wonderful news. A big deal with router tables is making them versatile to work with different router makes/models. Using phenolic or aluminum insert plates is a great, and simple, option... most are rectangular with rounded corners and are available pre-drilled for many common routers. That Ryobi table has a very unique and non-standard shaped/sized plate... but if that plate accepts the 1617 as-is then it may be compatible with future upgrades. The Bosch 1617EVSPK package is a very versatile and popular router. My only gripe with it is that it doesn't accept the PC style guide bushings without a pair of extra-cost adapters. They're not expensive fortunately. Question on the Ryobi insert: does it have provisions for a "starter pin" - i.e. a small metal post that screws into the top of the router table or plate, a few inches away from the bit, for cuts that do not use the table fence? If not, that is something I would add. A basic hardware store hex bolt (threaded section plus 1" or so of smooth shank portion) with the head cut off is a dirt cheap starter pin. Pick one with a shank 1/4 to 3/8ths inches in diameter.

Commercially available router insert plates come in several sizes; there are a few common ones. Rockler plates are one standard: 8 1/4 by 11 3/4 inches; other brands use 9 1/4 by 11 3/4 inches, and then there are 9 by 12 inch plates used by Rousseau, Grizzly, and Big Horn. I picked the Rockler size for my router table since I have a Rockler store near me, they offer plates for many different router makes/models, and they sell a version of the Incra lift sized for their plates. Once you try "above the table height adjustment" and especially "above the table bit changes" you'll not willingly go back to futzing with router table setups that make you work below the tabletop. A router mounted to an insert plate can be lifted out of the table and rested on its side, on the table, for bit height adjustments or bit changes at least... much easier on your back than scrunching down to work in a cave below the tabletop.

Router table cabinets can be as simple/inexpensive as you like, all the way up to something that is a full shop project itself. The examples in twistsol's pictures have served as inspiration for many shop-built tables over the years. You can instead start with a frame built from 2x4s or hopefully better quality hardwoods just to hold the tabletop and casters... then later add drawers, shelves, etc. as finances and time permit. I would strongly recommend drawers be part of your plans... shop storage is always in short supply and router accessories can gobble up a lot of space. A box section surrounding the router itself is good for dust and noise control. Typically that leaves skinny spaces on either side of the box... to skinny for worthwhile drawers but great for pull-out trays or half-drawers: somewhat like a drawer but missing one side. Instead you attach pegs or small shelves to the other drawer side to hold the router wrenches, the round insert rings for the table, extra router collets, etc.

Woodsmith magazine example. A bare frame that can be updated later to include drawers, pull-out trays, and a dust/noise box around the router. Make a prototype out of basic 2x4 construction lumber that's lower than you think you'll like, screw extensions to the legs to adjust the height. Too tall? Remove the extensions, cut off an inch or whatever, and re-attach them and test again. Too short? Screw them on a bit lower and try again or make new extensions. Once you find the height you like make the final stand out of decent quality material.

Woodworker's Journal magazine example using Rockler metal leg set, casters, and power tool "safety switch." And then upgraded with shop-built storage. Rockler recently changed the design of their router table stands; some stores are selling off any remaining stock of the original design for a significant discount right now. The big difference: the old design had "L" shaped metal parts with holes drilled for the necessary assembly screws; the new design has extra holes spaced 32 millimeters apart along their entire lengths. These extra holes make it easier to attach cabinet parts or special drawer slide gizmos sold by Rockler. Drilling holes in the original design is not hard. Add-on accessories (e.g. the drawer slides) are not interchangeable between the two designs however. Again, you can start with the frame by itself and later make your own storage system inside it. The frame pieces for the bottom include a small metal lip running along the inside of the assembly to support a simple plywood shelf until you get around to making something fancier. Disadvantage of using this type of table: there is little means to customize the table working height. You can tweak it a little higher by using larger caster wheels or inserting wood shims between the metal frame and your tabletop.

This shop-built table, from Ron on Lumberjocks.com, shows an example of a "half drawer" as I dubbed it on the top/left. As a regular drawer you can see it'd be a deep hole, hard to reach into. But with one side left off, access to stuff is trivially easy. The other side is setup to hold common router bits.

Somebody on the Internet (I didn't note their name unfortunately...) had a situation similar to yours: a serviceable benchtop router table in need of a more permanent home. This is a quick fix for your immediate problem but it isn't readily adaptable to a larger or different router tabletop if you find you outgrow your Ryobi table. A lot of potential storage space is wasted by the stock table legs too. And it does not lend itself to creating a box around the router for dust collection or noise control.

Storage drawers: The Woodworker's Journal example shows one big and deep drawer. That works okay to store a router or two standing upright but is miserable for storing and organizing smaller items. The Lumberjock's example has multiple shallower drawers. Just make sure they are deep enough for routers to lay on their sides as in the picture, and deep enough for whatever accessories you think you might make/buy in the future. A common accessory is a "coping sled" to make cuts on the end of skinny sticks that will become cabinet door rails. You can use the miter gauge for these pieces but many folks prefer a sled setup that clamps the workpiece securely. Sleds can end up rather tall (handles). I'd suggest a shallow drawer or two for things like router edge guides, extra insert plates, an oversize router base plate (for when you are using the router hand-held but need to span a larger gap), etc. and a deeper drawer for routers, a sled, etc. Other things you'll probably want to store in the cabinet: featherboards, push sticks/blocks, stop blocks, setup blocks for special bits, Allen wrenches for bearings and stop collars on some router bits, and whatever gizmo you end up with to hold/clamp a router bit while you tighten/loosen bearing mounting screws or stop collars.

Router bit storage: almost everything you'll see in magazines and on the Internet boil down to shelves or drawers with 1/4 and 1/2 inch diameter holes. Dowels or finish nails sticking upwards provide handy ways to store additional bearings (e.g. from a rabbeting bit set), bearing collars, etc. It's up to you to find some way to label the spots for your bit collection... e.g. "1/8th inch roundover" or "14 degree dovetail bit" compared to "8 degree dovetail bit." I keep my bits in their original containers: plastic boxes for Freud bits, flexible pouches for Rockler bits, etc. That way their labels stay with the bits... but there is no good way to actually store them other than in a wide and shallow drawer or box that I end up having to hunt through. At least they stay clean in their containers and I don't have zillions of sharp edges exposed as in the Woodworker's Journal example above.

edit: Look at the tabletop on the Norm/New Yankee Workshop picture again: notice how it overhangs the cabinet? That lets you use regular woodworking clamps to attach things to the table for oddball purposes: maybe a special fence, extra-large featherboards when you are working with long/heavy stock, large stop blocks, etc. I've needed to clamp stuff to my router table far more often than I originally thought.

mpc

**nicer20** · 04-18-2023, 09:54 AM

First of all many many thanks to LCHIEN, twistsol , capncarl , leehljp , mpc for lots of ideas, pointers and wisdom.

Current table/table top (to answer some of the questions collectively) is 1" thick, 32" wide and 16" deep. It also has been fortified underneath with a steel brace, runs right under the miter slot which otherwise might have created a weak link. The included router plate is not conventional rectangular shape but has been already drilled for many popular routers including my Bosch 1617EVSPK. The only thing missing in the plate for that router model is a hole to allow above table adjustment. That feature is built into the router already. So I will need to drill a hole.

It also came with a starter pin and the plate has a hole for that. The only thing is it is made of plastic. So I might look for a metal pin or a bolt idea like what mpc recommended.

Coming back to the cabinet/stand here is what I gather from all the comments and suggestions -

1. Build a table with drawers and wheels. More small & shallower drawers better than a few large deeper ones.
2. Build a top larger than 32x16. Looks like something like 36x24 might be good size. Don't forget to overhang it on sides - I guess at least on 3 sides (front, left & right) is a good idea.
3. Try different heights before finalizing.

In a way I have a catch-22 situation. I can't build decent shop upgrades until I get some of this equipment mobile & usable in back friendly manner. And I can't get it back friendly until I build some upgrades.

So here is what I am planning to do in the short term - As suggested by mpc in that last picture, I am going to build a quick & simple cart (even simpler than the one in picture) to host the entire router table. This will get me going ASAP and also I will be able to test different heights easily.

Then I will focus on building a cabinet with features you all have suggested.

Once again I really appreciate all these invaluable insights.

Thanks a lot

- NG

**LCHIEN** · 04-19-2023, 11:19 AM

I’ve been mulling over a response to this thread and it appears you’ve kind of already made up your mind.

But I’ll be blunt, I’m not a fan of those all-in one solutions, I think its limitations will stick with you for a long time. I hinted before that going with this now because you have it will saddle you with its limits for a while.

While the fact that it is predrilled for the Bosch you have is nice, you can’t put a commercial router lift into it or even a larger 2 HP router motor. The Bosch base with the T-hex wrench works for above the table and I used it for a while. But compared with a “real” router lift you have to lock it every time to make the most accurate cuts and avoid slop, and you still have to reach under the table to make the coarse height adjustments and remove the motor for bit changes. With my router lift I can do all that from above the table which my 70-year old back is thanking me for.

I choose a woodpecker table top which is one of about 2 popular size plate openings. So when I was able to snag a router lift on sale, it dropped into my table.
The fence on the all-in-ones like the Ryobi are too much. I have not missed the track on top. I have not missed the split fence ( presume that is what the slots in the face are for adjusting).
I have three fences. The First one is a 1” x 2” piece of hardwood the length = the width of my table. It has a notch in on 1” face I use if I need to “bury” a small bit. I clamp it to the edges of the table ( as MPC says make your you have a clampable edge all around your mounted top) using the short side with the notch or the back side with no notch or the thing standing on edge for a 2” high fence. And Then I have a second fence, home built with a 3 inch high fence and a 2.5” wide bit opening for buried bits and a dust port for a shop vac hose.
Dust ports are funny features… where the dust goes depends on what kind of bit you are using and whether it’s a rabbet or edge cut or a groove. Some of those the fence dust port does little good, and sometime under the table collection does little good (esp. with fitted throat plates).
And lastly I have an Incra fence and positioner that I bought and have not installed – a case of overkill and ambition.
As for the miter slot on the table, I never use it. Oh, well, yes I do. It holds my 6” steel rulers and my pencil. They can fall in this slot and not get knocked off the table or interfere with workpiece movement. I do have one of those router coping sleds I have used on occasion.
My table is just a simple frame stand. It is made as a large “U” looking from the top and the two sides can fold to the back for flat storage if the top is removed. In 20 years I have never folded it up.

I suppose I should have made a stand with drawers but I have all my router bits and accessories in plastic stacking boxes I shuffle around.
I guess my chief comment then is building a table around this top may make it harder to upgrade in the future. Beware of getting stuck down this path because it was cheaper.

**mpc** · 04-19-2023, 01:13 PM

Originally posted by LCHIEN

I guess my chief comment then is building a table around this top may make it harder to upgrade in the future. Beware of getting stuck down this path because it was cheaper.

That is why I suggested making the cabinet deeper front-to-back, adding filler strips around the existing Ryobi tabletop... and using screws to attach everything. That way the whole top can be replaced when compatibility with rectangular insert plates is desired. At least the Ryobi table is fairly wide; many "benchtop" router tables are significantly smaller. For comparison, Rocker's highest-grade cast iron router tabletop is 32 x 24 inches; tables designed to be added between a table saw fence support rails are often 27 x 16 inches. So that Ryobi table is as wide as many free-standing router table setups, and wider than many table saw mounted router tables. Even the expensive Saw Stop cast iron table for their bigger saws is narrower at 30 x 16 inches. Using a pair of filler strips plus the Ryobi table quickly brings it to 32 x 24 inches so a cabinet sized for that will be compatible with commercially available tabletops or a shop-built equivalent. Just leave sufficient width and height below the table for the router, a potential dust collection box, etc. for future upgradeability.

As for dust collection... I agree: fence mounted shop-vac ports work well when profiling the edge of a workpiece - guided by the fence itself and/or a bearing on the bit. But when using the router table to make grooves in the face of a workpiece, the workpiece covers the cut so vacuuming through the fence is pointless. Making a dado/groove cut typically results in sawdust being blasted (really blasted!) off the left side of the table. This link Rockler's table dust chute has a picture that clearly shows the blasting. I don't know how effective this gizmo is; I'm linking to it for the picture of the blasted dust. I have the Incra lift in my router table... as I posted earlier, once you have "above the table" bit height and bit change capability you'll not willingly give it up. The Incra lift uses magnetically attached insert rings. An upgrade is the "Clean Sweep" rings for the Incra lift: these have banana shaped slots around the bit opening. So you have "below the table" dust collection capability while maintaining workpiece support close to the bit. They work rather well. When making dado/groove cuts I get little "blasted" material. I built a box underneath the table, similar to Rockler's Dust Right Router Table Dust Bucket, connected to a dust collector (not to a shop vac) which draws through the Clean Sweep rings.

My Incra lift and a sample Clean Sweep insert.

mpc

**nicer20** · 04-19-2023, 01:52 PM

Hi Loring,

There is some misunderstanding for sure. Not sure why you thought I have made up my mind about building the table around my current Ryobi table top.

On the contrary, after reading your as well as other's feedback I have paused my plans to build the cabinet around that top.

Please read my #2 point that says "Build a top larger than 32x16. Looks like something like 36x24 might be good size. .........."

May be I worded it wrong - I should have said Build or Buy a top. Also, implied in this new top approach is getting a "real" router lift. I should have added that as #2-b explicitly.

In the meantime, to address immediate need of getting the garage space maneuverable I am just building a quick & simple stand/cart to put the Ryobi table. As I mentioned ignoring the usability aspect, I need my shop in a state where I can move objects around easily without hurting my back again.

Sorry for all the confusion - I will come back with a design in future for the hive consensus

.
Oh BTW in the meantime, please keep sharing your valuable insights, ideas and suggestions.

Thanks again for all your collective wisdom.

- NG

**LCHIEN** · 04-19-2023, 05:03 PM

I will add that at this point I don't feel the need for a larger more HP router than the Bosch 1617. I have a fixed speed (not EVS) version in the table and an EVS in my handheld box. I use a $20 router/fan speed controller from Amazon.which works great.
https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...eed-controller

Wifi-controlled touch tablet power router lift? Wow, sounds really great. I could afford it for me if I really wanted it, but it's not compelling. For one thing after every bit change you probably have to calibrate the zero depth position so it takes a physical measurement anyway. Might as well just measure the bit height than to zero it manually and then set it digitally.

Better Dust collection? Probably just a pipe dream. This is the last thing I tried to help collect dust ejected from grooving chute
https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...ction-new-idea

Horizontally mounted router - now this interests me. Been thinking about making one for a long time But really haven't had the need for one or the space to store it.

**LCHIEN** · 04-19-2023, 07:45 PM

My last advice is to get the 30-piece MLCSWoodworking Router bit set.
This set has probably more bits than you will need but at an average cost of $3.83 and a nice storage box its a great deal. Over time I have used well over half the bits in this set and having a choice on hand when working on something is nice and gives you design flexibility over having to pick a profile and then buying it. In half-inch shanks, naturally.

You don't really need a bigger set than this. I do have their 66 piece set and I rarely go into that box and pick a bit, It was a bad purchase and I have not got my money's worth out of it. I have bought some special purpose bits... I like edge beading and a few flush trim and some signmaking bits.

Building a cabinet for my router table

Building a cabinet for my router table

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Footer Ad