This fence was built for supporting a sacrificial face attached to the rip fence for dado and rabbit work. By making the right side face tall also, this fence can be used to make raised panels by setting the fence on the left side of the blade. The fence is 24” long, but could be longer to provide more support beyond the blade. The fence is 6” tall and has four partitions to hold the faces parallel. This fence is held on the rip fence by two strips of wood that ride in the T-slots in both sides of the rip fence. This one was made from 3/4” hard maple, but plywood would be more stable, especially if it wasn’t finished like this one is. The fence was built up on the rip fence to ensure that it was square with the fence. Be sure to wax the rip fence before doing any glue so that the dried glue won’t stick to the aluminum and to make it easier to remove the high fence later. There are no drawings for this jig. It was built following the basic design of the tenon jig I designed. See the pictures below for the orientation of the parts. Start by cutting all of the pieces to size and then glue the piece that lays on top of the rip fence to the left face. Clamp the two pieces together and clamp both pieces to the rip fence.
When this has dried, mark the inside of the left face piece for the strip of wood that will ride in the left side T-slot. Glue this strip of wood to the inside of the left face. When this has dried, drive some brads in to further secure it to the face piece.
Next, temporarily clamp the right face piece in place and mark it for the T-slot strip. Remove the right side face piece and glue the T-strip in place. After the glue has cured, drive brads in place like the left side. Now glue the right face piece to the left face/top assembly. Clamp this assembly to the rip fence as before and make sure the partitions are in place until the glue cures.
Now glue and clamp the partitions in place while the assembly is still on the rip fence. After the glue has cured, remove the assembly from the rip fence and reinforce the joints with counter sunk 1 1/4” drywall (or similar) screws. Fill the screw holes with suitable putty and sand the entire unit to 220 grit. Threaded inserts are installed in the left fence to facilitate attaching a sacrificial fence for rabbiting work. If the high fence does not fit snugly on the rip fence, wipe coats of thinned varnish on the inside of the high fence until it does. The original fence had two threaded inserts in the top piece to allow two screws to be tightened down on the rip fence to secure the high fence. The original fits so tightly that they are not used.
Original PDF Document:
highfncins.pdf