Building a cabinet for my router table

[nicer20]

Thanks for these pointers !!

[LCHIEN]

I don't own any solid carbide spiral "trim" bits with bearings.Or even the carbide tipped with shear angle flush trim bits.

I do have several 1/4" and 1/2" solid carbide spiral downcut bits. I do own several flush trim carbide-tipped bits with bearings but I usually use 1/2 or 3/4" cutting diameter for patterns and templates. - usually I use these for thin sections precut with a band saw if possible so the trim bit is taking off less than a diameters worth. You saw how clean a cut I made on these even though 3/4" deep. https://www.sawdustzone.org/filedata...52&type=medium

Downcut is described from the handheld router use, not the table mounted and will shear the edge of a groove down into the groove giving a cleaner edge compared to a upcut bit which will pull the cut fibers upwards.

However the downcut has the disadvantage of packing all the cuttings into the groove rather than pulling them out, not a big deal.

One last piece of advice, using 1/4" dia spiral, or straight bits for that matter, the cross section is very thin and easy to break. When plowing full width grooves with a 1/4" bit, I lower it 1/16-1/8" per pass, not more than 1/8" or you risk breaking the bit if feeding too hard!!! DAMHIKT

My last advice then is I buy my bits at MLCSwoodworking.com, the prices are reasonable, the quality very good, the shipping free (no 7-$10 shipping on a $12 bit) and their customer service has been great whenever I have an issue. On the DAMHIKT above I broke my first 1/4" solid carbide spiral bit with too deep a cut; they explained it to me and send me a free replacement when it was really all my fault.

[nicer20]

My last advice is to get the 30-piece MLCSWoodworking Router bit set.
This set has probably more bits than you will need but at an average cost of $3.83 and a nice storage box its a great deal. Over time I have used well over half the bits in this set and having a choice on hand when working on something is nice and gives you design flexibility over having to pick a profile and then buying it. In half-inch shanks, naturally.

Yes a 1/2" bit collection is in order, now that I have a router with 1/2" collet capability.

On the router bits note (although a bit of a digression from original topic) what spiral trim bit do you recommend? I have two Freud flush trim bits (1/4" shank) - one with bearing on top and another with bearing on bottom. But both are straight trim bits and not spiral. I believe spiral bits are better from tear out perspective. TIA.

[nicer20]

That dust collection thread is very informative. Thanks.

[LCHIEN]

My last advice is to get the 30-piece MLCSWoodworking Router bit set.
This set has probably more bits than you will need but at an average cost of $3.83 and a nice storage box its a great deal. Over time I have used well over half the bits in this set and having a choice on hand when working on something is nice and gives you design flexibility over having to pick a profile and then buying it. In half-inch shanks, naturally.

You don't really need a bigger set than this. I do have their 66 piece set and I rarely go into that box and pick a bit, It was a bad purchase and I have not got my money's worth out of it. I have bought some special purpose bits... I like edge beading and a few flush trim and some signmaking bits.

[LCHIEN]

I will add that at this point I don't feel the need for a larger more HP router than the Bosch 1617. I have a fixed speed (not EVS) version in the table and an EVS in my handheld box. I use a $20 router/fan speed controller from Amazon.which works great.
https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...eed-controller

Wifi-controlled touch tablet power router lift? Wow, sounds really great. I could afford it for me if I really wanted it, but it's not compelling. For one thing after every bit change you probably have to calibrate the zero depth position so it takes a physical measurement anyway. Might as well just measure the bit height than to zero it manually and then set it digitally.

Better Dust collection? Probably just a pipe dream. This is the last thing I tried to help collect dust ejected from grooving chute
https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...ction-new-idea

Horizontally mounted router - now this interests me. Been thinking about making one for a long time But really haven't had the need for one or the space to store it.

[LCHIEN]

I think my point is don't overthink the dust collection or think that there is one universal perfect way to collect it all. Routers are still rather messy in that respect.

[nicer20]

Hi Loring,

There is some misunderstanding for sure. Not sure why you thought I have made up my mind about building the table around my current Ryobi table top.

On the contrary, after reading your as well as other's feedback I have paused my plans to build the cabinet around that top.

Please read my #2 point that says "Build a top larger than 32x16. Looks like something like 36x24 might be good size. .........."

May be I worded it wrong - I should have said Build or Buy a top. Also, implied in this new top approach is getting a "real" router lift. I should have added that as #2-b explicitly.

In the meantime, to address immediate need of getting the garage space maneuverable I am just building a quick & simple stand/cart to put the Ryobi table. As I mentioned ignoring the usability aspect, I need my shop in a state where I can move objects around easily without hurting my back again.

Sorry for all the confusion - I will come back with a design in future for the hive consensus .
Oh BTW in the meantime, please keep sharing your valuable insights, ideas and suggestions.

Thanks again for all your collective wisdom.

- NG

[mpc]

I guess my chief comment then is building a table around this top may make it harder to upgrade in the future. Beware of getting stuck down this path because it was cheaper.

That is why I suggested making the cabinet deeper front-to-back, adding filler strips around the existing Ryobi tabletop... and using screws to attach everything. That way the whole top can be replaced when compatibility with rectangular insert plates is desired. At least the Ryobi table is fairly wide; many "benchtop" router tables are significantly smaller. For comparison, Rocker's highest-grade cast iron router tabletop is 32 x 24 inches; tables designed to be added between a table saw fence support rails are often 27 x 16 inches. So that Ryobi table is as wide as many free-standing router table setups, and wider than many table saw mounted router tables. Even the expensive Saw Stop cast iron table for their bigger saws is narrower at 30 x 16 inches. Using a pair of filler strips plus the Ryobi table quickly brings it to 32 x 24 inches so a cabinet sized for that will be compatible with commercially available tabletops or a shop-built equivalent. Just leave sufficient width and height below the table for the router, a potential dust collection box, etc. for future upgradeability.

As for dust collection... I agree: fence mounted shop-vac ports work well when profiling the edge of a workpiece - guided by the fence itself and/or a bearing on the bit. But when using the router table to make grooves in the face of a workpiece, the workpiece covers the cut so vacuuming through the fence is pointless. Making a dado/groove cut typically results in sawdust being blasted (really blasted!) off the left side of the table. This link Rockler's table dust chute has a picture that clearly shows the blasting. I don't know how effective this gizmo is; I'm linking to it for the picture of the blasted dust. I have the Incra lift in my router table... as I posted earlier, once you have "above the table" bit height and bit change capability you'll not willingly give it up. The Incra lift uses magnetically attached insert rings. An upgrade is the "Clean Sweep" rings for the Incra lift: these have banana shaped slots around the bit opening. So you have "below the table" dust collection capability while maintaining workpiece support close to the bit. They work rather well. When making dado/groove cuts I get little "blasted" material. I built a box underneath the table, similar to Rockler's Dust Right Router Table Dust Bucket, connected to a dust collector (not to a shop vac) which draws through the Clean Sweep rings.


My Incra lift and a sample Clean Sweep insert.

mpc

[LCHIEN]

I’ve been mulling over a response to this thread and it appears you’ve kind of already made up your mind.

But I’ll be blunt, I’m not a fan of those all-in one solutions, I think its limitations will stick with you for a long time. I hinted before that going with this now because you have it will saddle you with its limits for a while.

While the fact that it is predrilled for the Bosch you have is nice, you can’t put a commercial router lift into it or even a larger 2 HP router motor. The Bosch base with the T-hex wrench works for above the table and I used it for a while. But compared with a “real” router lift you have to lock it every time to make the most accurate cuts and avoid slop, and you still have to reach under the table to make the coarse height adjustments and remove the motor for bit changes. With my router lift I can do all that from above the table which my 70-year old back is thanking me for.

I choose a woodpecker table top which is one of about 2 popular size plate openings. So when I was able to snag a router lift on sale, it dropped into my table.
The fence on the all-in-ones like the Ryobi are too much. I have not missed the track on top. I have not missed the split fence ( presume that is what the slots in the face are for adjusting).
I have three fences. The First one is a 1” x 2” piece of hardwood the length = the width of my table. It has a notch in on 1” face I use if I need to “bury” a small bit. I clamp it to the edges of the table ( as MPC says make your you have a clampable edge all around your mounted top) using the short side with the notch or the back side with no notch or the thing standing on edge for a 2” high fence. And Then I have a second fence, home built with a 3 inch high fence and a 2.5” wide bit opening for buried bits and a dust port for a shop vac hose.
Dust ports are funny features… where the dust goes depends on what kind of bit you are using and whether it’s a rabbet or edge cut or a groove. Some of those the fence dust port does little good, and sometime under the table collection does little good (esp. with fitted throat plates).
And lastly I have an Incra fence and positioner that I bought and have not installed – a case of overkill and ambition.
As for the miter slot on the table, I never use it. Oh, well, yes I do. It holds my 6” steel rulers and my pencil. They can fall in this slot and not get knocked off the table or interfere with workpiece movement. I do have one of those router coping sleds I have used on occasion.
My table is just a simple frame stand. It is made as a large “U” looking from the top and the two sides can fold to the back for flat storage if the top is removed. In 20 years I have never folded it up.

I suppose I should have made a stand with drawers but I have all my router bits and accessories in plastic stacking boxes I shuffle around.
I guess my chief comment then is building a table around this top may make it harder to upgrade in the future. Beware of getting stuck down this path because it was cheaper.

[nicer20]

BTW I also bought the Bosch edge guide and guide bushings kit along with the router.

[nicer20]

First of all many many thanks to LCHIEN, twistsol , capncarl , leehljp , mpc for lots of ideas, pointers and wisdom.

Current table/table top (to answer some of the questions collectively) is 1" thick, 32" wide and 16" deep. It also has been fortified underneath with a steel brace, runs right under the miter slot which otherwise might have created a weak link. The included router plate is not conventional rectangular shape but has been already drilled for many popular routers including my Bosch 1617EVSPK. The only thing missing in the plate for that router model is a hole to allow above table adjustment. That feature is built into the router already. So I will need to drill a hole.

It also came with a starter pin and the plate has a hole for that. The only thing is it is made of plastic. So I might look for a metal pin or a bolt idea like what mpc recommended.

Coming back to the cabinet/stand here is what I gather from all the comments and suggestions -

1. Build a table with drawers and wheels. More small & shallower drawers better than a few large deeper ones.
2. Build a top larger than 32x16. Looks like something like 36x24 might be good size. Don't forget to overhang it on sides - I guess at least on 3 sides (front, left & right) is a good idea.
3. Try different heights before finalizing.

In a way I have a catch-22 situation. I can't build decent shop upgrades until I get some of this equipment mobile & usable in back friendly manner. And I can't get it back friendly until I build some upgrades.

So here is what I am planning to do in the short term - As suggested by mpc in that last picture, I am going to build a quick & simple cart (even simpler than the one in picture) to host the entire router table. This will get me going ASAP and also I will be able to test different heights easily.

Then I will focus on building a cabinet with features you all have suggested.

Once again I really appreciate all these invaluable insights.

Thanks a lot

- NG

[nicer20]

Yes in general, I agree on Buy Once Cry Once. Though in some instances, it happens that I may have bought something not being aware of the options. Like I bought the Ryobi router many years ago not necessarily because it was the cheapest but because I didn't know better. After using it I realized of its so many shortcomings.
That's why I bought Bosch 1617EVSPK kit now. There are probably cheaper alternatives above my Ryobi but I wanted what I believe to be solid machine that will serve my needs. Granted it may not be THE top of the line and there are probably FESTOOLs or something like that. But then again for me it is a hobby and I don't make any $ out of it. Whatever I make it's just for personal use or friends & family without any $ involved. So I have some limits how much I can spend :-) :-)

[mpc]

Only you can decide if the existing Ryobi table is large enough for the work you do now and what you think you might do in the future. My gut reaction though is it seems wide enough but is maybe too shallow front-to-back. And how thick is it? You might consider building a box on wheels that is about the width of the Ryobi table but is deeper front-to-back... Then mount the Ryobi table to the box with space both in front of it and behind it that you can fill in with plywood or other filler strips to make a larger work surface. Just screw the Ryobi table and the filler strips to the box; that way in the future if you decide to get a different tabletop you can re-use the cabinet/box.

If that funky shaped insert plate will accept the Bosch 1617 fixed base, that is wonderful news. A big deal with router tables is making them versatile to work with different router makes/models. Using phenolic or aluminum insert plates is a great, and simple, option... most are rectangular with rounded corners and are available pre-drilled for many common routers. That Ryobi table has a very unique and non-standard shaped/sized plate... but if that plate accepts the 1617 as-is then it may be compatible with future upgrades. The Bosch 1617EVSPK package is a very versatile and popular router. My only gripe with it is that it doesn't accept the PC style guide bushings without a pair of extra-cost adapters. They're not expensive fortunately. Question on the Ryobi insert: does it have provisions for a "starter pin" - i.e. a small metal post that screws into the top of the router table or plate, a few inches away from the bit, for cuts that do not use the table fence? If not, that is something I would add. A basic hardware store hex bolt (threaded section plus 1" or so of smooth shank portion) with the head cut off is a dirt cheap starter pin. Pick one with a shank 1/4 to 3/8ths inches in diameter.

Commercially available router insert plates come in several sizes; there are a few common ones. Rockler plates are one standard: 8 1/4 by 11 3/4 inches; other brands use 9 1/4 by 11 3/4 inches, and then there are 9 by 12 inch plates used by Rousseau, Grizzly, and Big Horn. I picked the Rockler size for my router table since I have a Rockler store near me, they offer plates for many different router makes/models, and they sell a version of the Incra lift sized for their plates. Once you try "above the table height adjustment" and especially "above the table bit changes" you'll not willingly go back to futzing with router table setups that make you work below the tabletop. A router mounted to an insert plate can be lifted out of the table and rested on its side, on the table, for bit height adjustments or bit changes at least... much easier on your back than scrunching down to work in a cave below the tabletop.

Router table cabinets can be as simple/inexpensive as you like, all the way up to something that is a full shop project itself. The examples in twistsol's pictures have served as inspiration for many shop-built tables over the years. You can instead start with a frame built from 2x4s or hopefully better quality hardwoods just to hold the tabletop and casters... then later add drawers, shelves, etc. as finances and time permit. I would strongly recommend drawers be part of your plans... shop storage is always in short supply and router accessories can gobble up a lot of space. A box section surrounding the router itself is good for dust and noise control. Typically that leaves skinny spaces on either side of the box... to skinny for worthwhile drawers but great for pull-out trays or half-drawers: somewhat like a drawer but missing one side. Instead you attach pegs or small shelves to the other drawer side to hold the router wrenches, the round insert rings for the table, extra router collets, etc.


Woodsmith magazine example. A bare frame that can be updated later to include drawers, pull-out trays, and a dust/noise box around the router. Make a prototype out of basic 2x4 construction lumber that's lower than you think you'll like, screw extensions to the legs to adjust the height. Too tall? Remove the extensions, cut off an inch or whatever, and re-attach them and test again. Too short? Screw them on a bit lower and try again or make new extensions. Once you find the height you like make the final stand out of decent quality material.


Woodworker's Journal magazine example using Rockler metal leg set, casters, and power tool "safety switch." And then upgraded with shop-built storage. Rockler recently changed the design of their router table stands; some stores are selling off any remaining stock of the original design for a significant discount right now. The big difference: the old design had "L" shaped metal parts with holes drilled for the necessary assembly screws; the new design has extra holes spaced 32 millimeters apart along their entire lengths. These extra holes make it easier to attach cabinet parts or special drawer slide gizmos sold by Rockler. Drilling holes in the original design is not hard. Add-on accessories (e.g. the drawer slides) are not interchangeable between the two designs however. Again, you can start with the frame by itself and later make your own storage system inside it. The frame pieces for the bottom include a small metal lip running along the inside of the assembly to support a simple plywood shelf until you get around to making something fancier. Disadvantage of using this type of table: there is little means to customize the table working height. You can tweak it a little higher by using larger caster wheels or inserting wood shims between the metal frame and your tabletop.


This shop-built table, from Ron on Lumberjocks.com, shows an example of a "half drawer" as I dubbed it on the top/left. As a regular drawer you can see it'd be a deep hole, hard to reach into. But with one side left off, access to stuff is trivially easy. The other side is setup to hold common router bits.


Somebody on the Internet (I didn't note their name unfortunately...) had a situation similar to yours: a serviceable benchtop router table in need of a more permanent home. This is a quick fix for your immediate problem but it isn't readily adaptable to a larger or different router tabletop if you find you outgrow your Ryobi table. A lot of potential storage space is wasted by the stock table legs too. And it does not lend itself to creating a box around the router for dust collection or noise control.

Storage drawers: The Woodworker's Journal example shows one big and deep drawer. That works okay to store a router or two standing upright but is miserable for storing and organizing smaller items. The Lumberjock's example has multiple shallower drawers. Just make sure they are deep enough for routers to lay on their sides as in the picture, and deep enough for whatever accessories you think you might make/buy in the future. A common accessory is a "coping sled" to make cuts on the end of skinny sticks that will become cabinet door rails. You can use the miter gauge for these pieces but many folks prefer a sled setup that clamps the workpiece securely. Sleds can end up rather tall (handles). I'd suggest a shallow drawer or two for things like router edge guides, extra insert plates, an oversize router base plate (for when you are using the router hand-held but need to span a larger gap), etc. and a deeper drawer for routers, a sled, etc. Other things you'll probably want to store in the cabinet: featherboards, push sticks/blocks, stop blocks, setup blocks for special bits, Allen wrenches for bearings and stop collars on some router bits, and whatever gizmo you end up with to hold/clamp a router bit while you tighten/loosen bearing mounting screws or stop collars.

Router bit storage: almost everything you'll see in magazines and on the Internet boil down to shelves or drawers with 1/4 and 1/2 inch diameter holes. Dowels or finish nails sticking upwards provide handy ways to store additional bearings (e.g. from a rabbeting bit set), bearing collars, etc. It's up to you to find some way to label the spots for your bit collection... e.g. "1/8th inch roundover" or "14 degree dovetail bit" compared to "8 degree dovetail bit." I keep my bits in their original containers: plastic boxes for Freud bits, flexible pouches for Rockler bits, etc. That way their labels stay with the bits... but there is no good way to actually store them other than in a wide and shallow drawer or box that I end up having to hunt through. At least they stay clean in their containers and I don't have zillions of sharp edges exposed as in the Woodworker's Journal example above.

edit: Look at the tabletop on the Norm/New Yankee Workshop picture again: notice how it overhangs the cabinet? That lets you use regular woodworking clamps to attach things to the table for oddball purposes: maybe a special fence, extra-large featherboards when you are working with long/heavy stock, large stop blocks, etc. I've needed to clamp stuff to my router table far more often than I originally thought.

mpc

[twistsol]

I'm completely different. At 6' tall, everything in my shop is at 900mm or ~35.5" except my router table as noted above which is a bit taller. I don't use the ShopSmith as a table saw because it is about 38" when configured as such and is uncomfortable for me. Most people complain that the SS lathe is too low and I find it is perfectly comfortable for me when standing ... on the other hand, my 5'0" daughter thinks everything in my shop is about the right height also so it may just be the height at which we're accustomed to working.