Molding duplication problem.

[LCHIEN]

Need to make some toe molding to match for Daughter's house.
.75" x 1.57" overall the two upper left roundover radii are 3/32" and 3/16".

I'm figuring the only way to make something close is the left sketch two pieces glued together but you get a square inside curve instead of an S-curve like the sample shown.

Is there any reasonable way to make the inside part of the S-curve to look like the sample and the sketch on the right? Other than a custom molding bit. Can't even use a standard roundover bit which makes a 90° part of the curve and I only want about 45° of arc. And then the inside curve needs 135° of arc.

I'm thinking making the glue-up two parter and then using a small bead of caulking smoothed with a fingertip to take away the sharp inside corner. Still not perfect.

[GrumpyDad]

Check if your local cabinet shops have a Woodmaster planer/molder machine. They make hundreds of heads that can crank out miles of molding

https://woodmastertools.com/category/planermolders/

[LCHIEN]

Check if your local cabinet shops have a Woodmaster planer/molder machine. They make hundreds of heads that can crank out miles of molding

https://woodmastertools.com/category/planermolders/

Yeah, they only need 10 feet.

[mpc]

Ever make a "scratch stock" tool? Basically grind a piece of stiff sheet metal into the shape you want and drag it, held at an angle like a card scraper tool, over the workpiece multiple times to make the shape. For the shape you need, the table saw and a dado stack can remove the rabbet-like portion, then trim that upper corner with a router round-over bit. Then use the scratch stock to create the "S" shape. buzzing off a corner left when making the rabbet.

That's what I'd try.

Another option that just popped into my head: a bowl-and-tray router bit might be able to make the rabbet leaving a rounded inside corner, then you'd simply need basic round-over bits.

mpc

[Black walnut]

Cut the filet out with a dado blade or two passes with table saw. Use a plunge ogee for the inboard roundover and a roundover for the top roundover.

[leehljp]

Not quite what you want but similar:

https://carbideprocessors.com/whiteside/cabinet-making-router-bits/vertical-panel-router-bits/

This one might work, but the position is the key:

https://www.findbuytool.com/products/traditional-table-edge-router-bit?currency=USD&variant=40772878991537&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=a5033c86b05c&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2a6wBhCVARIsABPeH1uy-zuRJ7V0GCde6LYquU-Z5OO5yV3khz2wTAEqhJsg-BHX2oCyZtcaAh-YEALw_wcB

[LCHIEN]

So this is what I came up with. Two piece molding instead of one. The small roundover is more like 1/8" than my original guess of 3/32".

The blue painted one is the original; the unfinished one is the clone.

If they don't like the square inside curve, I'll put a bead of caulking in it smoothed with a fingertip.

It won't be adjoining existing molding directly, it will be across the room.

[capncarl]

Nothing wrong with filling in a corner with caulk. A plastic spoon makes a good tool for making the inside curve you are looking for.

[dbhost]

Sorry, just now seeing this thread, and you came up with the solution I was going to recommend since it is painted, just ease the inside curve with some caulk...

[LCHIEN]

Here's a test bead. Is DAP latex trim caulk the right stuff? Lasts a long time?

Needs to be a little thicker, I think, I just used a finger tip.

[capncarl]

Prime before caulking.

[LCHIEN]

Prime before caulking? Sounds like sound advice.

[LCHIEN]

Glued the strips to the larger piece and also used a pin nail every foot or so and then clamped lots of clamps because the thin piece was only .150" thick and needed it to be flush tot the larger piece.

30 feet all done. Except for the caulking of the inner joint after priming.

Impressed myself. 24 year old BT3000 cut a lot of deep rips over 1-1/2 inches thick without any issue. Each 6-foot board required about 4-5 deep long rips.