Question/saw issue...

[steveg]

Wow. Very nice looking guard there...but, sounds like from LCHIEN's post that this will probably not be able to be retrofitted with my saw, the Craftsman 22811...

If anyone has any other ideas that MIGHT make this work, please let me know...

Steve

[cwsmith]

Steve,

Here is how I tied-up my anti-kickback springs:








Basically, it's just a piece of steel wire forming a "bridge" across the top of the riving knife, on which I've hung the two springs.

Try it if you would like, but understand that it is by no means as "protective" against a "kick-back" as the force of the springs ensures! While my initial tests showed that it worked okay, I've noticed today that on hard and/or very smooth stock, the teeth do NOT readily dig in. Of course they no longer score the stock either, but they may not PROTECT as positively as I'd like. But, if they don't work for you, it's easy to simply remove the wire bridge and position the springs back on the pawls as originally designed.

A better solution would be to either have a slightly weaker spring, or the best solution would be to get the "Shark Guard".

I wonder if this new model riving knife and splitter can be retrofitted to the older BT-series... but then it would probably cost a bit more than a Shark Guard.

CWS

[steveg]

CWS -- that picture makes it very clear, and I think I'll give that a shot. Still some protection, but looks like it will solve a couple of issues. Plus, I'm used to not standing behind the stock you are cutting, but off to the side. That was the only "kickback protection" we had, back in the day in shop class.

I'd love to know if that thing could be retrofitted...I haven't even looked at the price yet, since it appears it won't work, but if it's already close in price to the Shark Guard, then no reason not to get the Shark (as it's apparently the cat's meow! )

Steve

[steveg]

SUCCESS!!

I got the new blade in the mail today, along with the tap kit and new screws for the throat plate. After re-tapping the hole, I put on the new blade and re-attached the throat plate, and ran that same piece of 3/4 oak -- the one I had issues with before -- through the saw. PERFECT! That blade cut like a hot knife through butter -- NO burning or smoking at all, and it left a perfect "jointer-like" edge.

I did notice that there is still some "stickiness" or "friction" between the wood and the saw when pushing the wood through, but this time, it's clear this has nothing to do with the blade. The cutting is fine, as I said; I can tell now that the only thing left for me to do is to wax the table (and maybe the fence?) So, for those of you that have done this, do you wax both the tabletop AND the face of the rip fence? Do you use just a normal car wax?

Thanks -- and thanks for everyone's help w.r.t. troubleshooting my problem. It's solved now!

Steve

[cabinetman]

SUCCESS!!


I did notice that there is still some "stickiness" or "friction" between the wood and the saw when pushing the wood through, but this time, it's clear this has nothing to do with the blade. The cutting is fine, as I said; I can tell now that the only thing left for me to do is to wax the table (and maybe the fence?) So, for those of you that have done this, do you wax both the tabletop AND the face of the rip fence? Do you use just a normal car wax?

Thanks -- and thanks for everyone's help w.r.t. troubleshooting my problem. It's solved now!

Steve

I had my bet on the blade. Congrats. As for waxing the saw top, I don't recommend it if you plan on doing finishing in the area, or to the wood that gets cut. I may sound anal about it, but think about what wax does. I would recommend Top Cote. IMO, it works better and longer than wax.

.

[LCHIEN]

Never use car wax, most all car waxes contain silicone additives which will contaminate your wood and make it impossible to finish - you get these fisheyes that don't take finish.

Use Johnson's paste wax or Minwax paste wax or Butcher's wax - these are known to be 100% wax. The Johnson's can be found with the floor care stuff in Lowes and HD, or often grocery stores as well. Minwax is often found with the furniture finishing stuff.

glad to hear a new blade did it for you. Carbide saw Blades can be sharpened at a cost (around $0.30 per tooth) usually much less than new blade... you may want to consider sharpening you old blade as a backup or if its not a good blade then buy a backup when they go on sale which is sharp and a reference for when you need to sharpen your main blade.

[pelligrini]

I believe he's got the Italian made OEM blade still. It is worth getting it sharpened.

HD and Lowes carry Johnsons in the cleaning goods area, Minwax is by the stains. I couldn't find the Johnsons when I first looked for wax, so I ended up with a can of Minwax.

Don't wax the rails, as it can lead to clamping issues with the fence. If your fence isn't sliding easily, a quick rub on the rails with wax paper can help. I wax the top, fence face, accessory tables and throat plate. I also like a light application to the SMT where the top slides on, sometimes it's just a rub with wax paper. Wax buildup in the guides is something you don't want. Don't wax the SMT fence either, that's not a bright idea.

If you haven't done it yet, you will really notice a big difference.

[cwsmith]

DON'T use car wax! As the other members have said, it will lead to finishing problems. The silicone also seems to find itself drifting to places you swear you hadn't touched.

I use Butcher's as it smells less than the Johnson's... but I don't know who carries that any more. I bought a couple of cans for next to nothing when HD clearanced it a few years ago... and I haven't seen it since.

ONLY wax the top and the side of the rip fence. Basically all you are looking for is a dry lube of the surfaces on which you will be sliding the stock. That does NOT include the SMT fence... you need all the friction there that you can get there, so no wax!

I used an old candle to "lube" the rails, but do this ONLY if the fence drags, and then only on the edges where the rip fence with slide, which is those two track-like surfaces on either side of the channel. For me, I only did the surfaces to the right of the blade, which is where my rip fence mostly resides. Don't do the inside and outside of those rail areas... that's where you want the accessory table and the SMT to lock... if you wax those surfaces, that locking action will be difficult.

Glad to see your new blade alleviated the problems you were challenged with,

CWS

[steveg]

Guys --

I posted a reply the other day, but it did not make it to the forum.

I decided on some Johnson's wax for now, as I was at Lowe's today. Haven't applied it yet, but I understand that none on the SMT fence makes sense! I will look at getting a can of that top cote, also.

I will wax the table top and the rip fence face...any advice as to how to apply/wipe off the stuff? Just buff it in, and then rub it off?

My fence seems to slide fine, so don't think I need to treat the rails in any way with wax paper or anything.

I can't wait to try it after waxing...that, and the new blade, and it's going to feel like a completely different machine!

I guess I need to fish that old OEM Freud blade out of the trash; didn't know you could get the teeth sharpened, and it would be good to have that blade as a backup. Where would I even begin to look, to find a place who would sharpen it?

Finally, I went to Sears today, to buy the wrench that holds the arbor, while trying to remove the arbor nut to replace a blade. My saw didn't come with any of the wrenches. Normal combination wrenches work fine for the rest of the stuff (arbor nut, etc.), but not to hold the arbor -- a normal combination wrench won't fit. As I figured, they don't sell them in the store...so I guess I'll need to order one online. Any idea who has a decent price without paying outrageous shipping? I've found the wrenches at some places for just a few bucks, but they want like $10 to $12 to ship them! I could do without, as sticking a piece of wood against the teeth works fine for removing the nut; but, holding onto the blade with a thick leather glove while tightening the arbor nut -- though it works OK -- is not ideal! I guess I could try the "grind down a combination wrench" trick, but...

Steve

[LCHIEN]

Top cote is really a waste on a an aluminum saw... its for cast iron tables mosstly as an anti-rust treatment.

In my area, many hardware stores have at their service desk, a list of sharpening services - for carbide blades, scissors, lawnmower blades, knives axes, etc. Just ask them, they usually send it to a third party that picks up and delivers once a week. or look in the yellow pages under sharpening. (my YP has two categories - Saw sharpening and repairing and Sharpening services)..The other option is to mail it away to a service. I have used http://www.forrestblades.com/sharpprice.htm - their blades are super excellent and apparently so is their sharpening.

Look in the BT3 FAQ for arbor wrench info

[steveg]

LCHIEN --

Thanks for the info on the sharpening...we don't have a "local hardware store" in my town; it's just Lowe's and Home Depot. Looks like a few possible options in a nearby city, though, from what I can tell. Thanks for that...and for the link to Forrest Blades. Another option for me.

On the wrenches, I'll check the FAQ...

Thanks!

Steve

[LCHIEN]

check with the guys at the sercice desk at HD or Lowes, they may have the local service pick up. Ace hardware, Tru-Value, sears hardware, Sears Outlet all had the same service picking up locally.

[steveg]

LCHIEN --

I'll definitely check those options out...

Also found a few places that seem like they may do such service, a "honing" company that is listed under "sharpening..." Looks like I have some options.

Steve

[tommyt]

My blade experience

I am a newbie but have a story that might help. A contractor friend impressed me his BT3000 so when my cast-iron monstrosity started being a pain, I started looking on Craigslist. I missed a few, drove 100 miles see one for $100 that looked awful, then finally found a nice one for $150. I put a Porter Cable Razor 50 tooth blade on it and was amazed how well it cut. Effortlessly, and with glue-ready surfaces.

3 days later, I saw another BT3K for sale that said it was nearly unused - - for $50! At that price I could have one in the basement and one in the shed! I bought it, and it really was nearly unused, even had the original blade that felt really sharp. But, I thought it was defective when I tried to rip. Motor really bogged. Two days later, I tried an experiment and took the bogging blade and put it on my 1st saw - it bogged too! Wow, the problem was just the blade. Interestingly, I had it hooked up to my Kill-a-watt meter and it showed it was drawing 13+ amps with the old blade but only 8 with the new one.

Really liking the saws, especially now that I have learned to align them. A jig with a dial indicator sure makes it a much easier job!

[kramer katt]

sears clone

was at the local Sears yesterday and walked past the big power tool display.
Remembering this discussion I went over closer to the Sears BT clone they
had and was surprised to see that old type blade guard/ slitter
How recently was the changed made at Ryobi?
Would Sears really keep an out of date model on the sales floor?