Portable air conditioner fixed!

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • dbhost
    Slow and steady
    • Apr 2008
    • 9209
    • League City, Texas
    • Ryobi BT3100

    Portable air conditioner fixed!

    It took far too long to get it done but the portable AC is working great. Got the fan blade glue back together everything lined up right everything tight the way it's supposed to be INRI assembled and tested it doesn't cool down as fast as I would like but it never did.

    Very happy that I don't have to scrap this piece of equipment at least yet. If I had it to do all over again there is no way I would do a portable unit. I would either boxing and duct a window unit or budget would permit I would use a ductless split system.

    Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.
  • dbhost
    Slow and steady
    • Apr 2008
    • 9209
    • League City, Texas
    • Ryobi BT3100

    #2
    Okay folks, here is the report for the day. Temps were into the lower 80s in the Clear Lake area yesterday, and rain, rain all day, so it was HUMID.

    I got home from work, the shop wall thermometer read 85 deg F, no clue what the RH was, but it was nasty sticky. I kicked the A.C. on at 5:45 P.M. and took the wife to the grocery store as we ran out of potatoes and bacon for a recipe we were going to work on (Bratkartoffeln mit Kraut). I left he AC on and ran out for about an hour and a half. I set the T-stat for 65 just wanting to see what the unit would do.

    When we came back, I realized the air by the unit was cold, the air by the bench, and miter saw bench was still stifling, so I turned on the air mover fan hung in front and above the AC from the ladder. (Odd rig, but it works). Went back into the house to work on dinner, came back out 20 minutes later.

    So 1 hour and 55 minutes after starting the unit up, the garage was COLD. The thermostat had shut the compressor off and I was simply running on fan at that point. the wall thermostat read 67 deg F on the other side of the shop from the AC unit.

    Assuming I remember to turn on the air mover fan at the same time, I expect, of course assuming this dumb thing doesn't try to grenade itself again at some point this summer, but I expect this to be sufficient for my shop through the summer, and given any luck in the matter, it should last a few more years, but I need to start planning, and budgeting.

    I've never given up on the concept of a dedicated small shop out in the back yard. Budget and family issues stepped in the way over the years though. I do have a savings account building up for a, well, building. I think without the lawn and garden, auto repair tools, and deep freeze, plus with loft storage for lumber, I could not only easily fit everything in, but be comfortable in a 12x24 gambrel roof barn. However to get a building that size approved by my HOA, I actually have to have it physically attached to the main structure of the house. After talking with my wife about it, a covered breezeway seems the best option, and one she likes. I would have to get Verison and Comcast to move their lines (at my expense I know) out of the middle of my property to the actual easement / utility run by the fence line, and much of the remaining back yard would be taken up by pavers and planters to provide usable recreational space. (Smallish lot for Texas anyway).

    That would make my wife happy, but happier still would be to get the stuff we have now paid off, and fixed... So on to more projects!
    Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

    Comment

    • LCHIEN
      Internet Fact Checker
      • Dec 2002
      • 20920
      • Katy, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 vintage 1999

      #3
      Hooray for airconditioning, esp. in Texas!
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

      Comment

      • capncarl
        Veteran Member
        • Jan 2007
        • 3564
        • Leesburg Georgia USA
        • SawStop CTS

        #4
        Getting a temp drop from 85 to 67 in a humid condition is great......especially with a portable unit. I believe you can mark this off your to do list.

        Comment

        • dbhost
          Slow and steady
          • Apr 2008
          • 9209
          • League City, Texas
          • Ryobi BT3100

          #5
          Yeah, we will see how this works in the summer. I know taking such a big drop in temp / humidity is really taxing on the unit, but then again, it's what it was bought for...

          My idea is to on days I get an opportunity to work out there, turn it on early on so I can get / maintain temp, and then just let it run...
          Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

          Comment

          • capncarl
            Veteran Member
            • Jan 2007
            • 3564
            • Leesburg Georgia USA
            • SawStop CTS

            #6
            When the inside temp becomes uncomfortable I turn the AC on and leave it on until the outside temp drops below 72. In SW Ga that is from March to November, then mi turn it to heat and let it cycle like it wants to.

            Comment

            • tfischer
              Veteran Member
              • Jul 2003
              • 2343
              • Plymouth (Minneapolis), MN, USA.
              • BT3100

              #7
              I picked up a used 13KBTU portable unit at the very end of last seasons after getting tired of sweat dripping all over the dressers I was building most of last summer. I don't have any windows in the garage, so I'm not sure how I'm going to duct it yet (it's a 2-hose system). I'm also reluctant to cut holes in the wall until I find out if this thing actually can cool the space down a bit. Your data is encouraging though.

              Comment

              • capncarl
                Veteran Member
                • Jan 2007
                • 3564
                • Leesburg Georgia USA
                • SawStop CTS

                #8
                I have no actual data on portable ACs, but a fair amount of experience with their use. On the local Marine base where I worked, the public works dept probably had 100 of them. When air conditioning failed in office or residential areas and their techs couldn't get the AC operational quickly they would roll in a portable and plug it in and would run a duct hose out the window when possible. If no window was available or they couldn't use a window for security reasons they would remove a ceiling tile and duct to the over the ceiling area. This was counter productive as it heated the whole area up. Condensate was always a problem, there was seldom anywhere to run the drain hose and nobody wanted to empty the tanks. Another inherit problem with portable units was the heat generated by the compressor, fan motor and coils to frame heat. This additional noise and heat into a room with poor air conditioning was unwelcome, and if the technician couldn't get it going quickly they called me in to determine if the building AC was repairable and get qualified contractors working on the unit, or design a new replacement system and get It expedited.
                For a portable unit in the shop this unit should cool 700 sf. I wouldn't hesitate cutting a hole in the wall for the duct, after you determine the unit works. Place the unit close to the wall penetration and build a box around the AC and run the condensate drain outdoors. Just like dust collection, keep the flex hose as short as possible. You wouldn't believe the difference it makes going from 2 feet of 4 inch duct to 10 feet of flex, it cuts the airflow probably 50%! You might even remove the flex and install metal duct or pvc pipe.
                From personal experience I can say that turning the AC on, setting the thermostat and leaving it on is more economical than turning it on when you want it cool and being disappointed because it is still hot inside. After the AC gets the room temp under control it does not have to cycle on very often. In the 6+ years my shop AC has been in service I have not seen any noticable increase in the utility bill, and last months utility bill is the same as it was in 2014. Believe me, if there was a rise utility bill my wife would not let me forget it.
                During the hot SW Ga summer months AC is an absolute must. Nothing is more miserable than to try to do woodwork in a 100 degree shop, fanning gnats, sweat running off you like a faucet and sawdust sticking to your wet skin! ..... Oh Oh, I almost forgot to mention, I'm not comfortable leaving the doors open because a snake might crawl in. Too many benches and cabinets for them to hide under.

                Comment

                • onedash
                  Veteran Member
                  • Mar 2005
                  • 1013
                  • Maryland
                  • Craftsman 22124

                  #9
                  Originally posted by capncarl
                  Nothing is more miserable than to try to do woodwork in a 100 degree shop.
                  I need to get insulated garage doors then A/C. Already insulated walls and ceilings. I was thinking a split air system. It seems that would be the most economical to use but more up front than a portable or cut a hole in wall for window unit.

                  YOU DONT HAVE TO TRAIN TO BE MISERABLE. YOU HAVE TO TRAIN TO ENDURE MISERY.

                  Comment

                  • dbhost
                    Slow and steady
                    • Apr 2008
                    • 9209
                    • League City, Texas
                    • Ryobi BT3100

                    #10
                    Originally posted by onedash
                    I need to get insulated garage doors then A/C. Already insulated walls and ceilings. I was thinking a split air system. It seems that would be the most economical to use but more up front than a portable or cut a hole in wall for window unit.
                    If you have aluminum garage doors, insulating them is super easy. I did a sandwich of R-Max and faced teh feflective sides out both ways. Attached the panels using Liquid Nails for projects, and filled the gaps with touch N Foam..

                    If I had it to do over again, I would have gone with a mini split instead. Yes they cost more, they are FAR more reliable, and cost a LOT less to run...

                    If funds ever rpesent themselves for a dedicated shop building, I will use a mini split system without hesitation...
                    Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

                    Comment

                    • dbhost
                      Slow and steady
                      • Apr 2008
                      • 9209
                      • League City, Texas
                      • Ryobi BT3100

                      #11
                      Okay final post fix report. The digital control panel on the front doesn't work any more, not sure why but it works via the remote. As long as I start the unit early enough in the day, it keeps the temps in the shop comfortable to work in. I set it as 75 when I get up and just let it cool the shop for about 2 hours before I go in on the weekends. Works great until I forget to start it up until late in the day, then it has so much of a heat load to overcome it's not funny...

                      Long term goal at this point is to still go with a dedicated shed in the yard, 12x16 with an awning, fully insulated, and pop my little 6.5K BTU window unit in the back wall of it.... The biggest issue so far has been getting budget lined up for this. I have been collecting discarded 2x4s from various construction dumpsters in my area.... I am getting close to enough to do the framing. Need the 4x6s for the skids, Habitat ReStore gets them frequently I noticed...

                      All told, I have the insualtion, electrical parts, most of the framing, hinges, fasteners,hinges, locks, tar paper, and shingles. Looks like I mostly need about 4 cu /yds of soil to level up and compact, about 3 cu /yds gravel to top that with / drainage, sheet goods for sheathing, flooring, and decking. Again Habitat ReStore gets that stuff in from time to time. And of course siding and paint.

                      I will NOT be carrying over the portable unit. I can not overemphasize this.... It works, but is so poorly made, and does such a mediocre job cooling I don't want to futz with it...

                      IF the portable unit fails while I am still in the garage, I am going to build an enclosure box to vent a window unit through the ceiling / soffits and NOT bother with a portable again... Probably hang it where my tool stacker is now.... My back is getting to the point I can't use the tool stacker without paying a steep price....
                      Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

                      Comment

                      • Carlos
                        Veteran Member
                        • Jan 2004
                        • 1893
                        • Phoenix, AZ, USA.

                        #12
                        The digital control panel on the front doesn't work any more, not sure why but it works via the remote.
                        My electric smoker is like that. The RF remote interfaces directly to the control board, but the button panel has its own interface separately. That went bad (or the buttons themselves). So I can't see anything on the display, nor use the local buttons, but the remote buttons and display are fine. Of the two, I'd rather keep the remote working!

                        Comment

                        • capncarl
                          Veteran Member
                          • Jan 2007
                          • 3564
                          • Leesburg Georgia USA
                          • SawStop CTS

                          #13
                          My wife’s first cousin purchased a portable ac unit (from SAMS I think) for their daughter to use in their rental house while the main ac was out of service. They asked me to look at at for them because it wasn’t cooling the room to suit them. My first impression when I got there was that within several feet around the unit the temperature was noticeably warmer. The unit does not appear to have the heat from the compressor or fan motor ducted outside along with the air from the condenser coil. This is like having a large toaster oven running in a room that you are trying to cool. To properly cool a portable AC should have 2 ducts running to the outside, one pulling in outside air to blow through the condenser housing which cools the condenser coil, compressor and fan motors and the other duct carries this heated air outside.
                          Capncarl

                          Comment

                          • cwsmith
                            Veteran Member
                            • Dec 2005
                            • 2737
                            • NY Southern Tier, USA.
                            • BT3100-1

                            #14
                            I bought a portable A/C unit for my 12 x 20 work shed a few years ago, that first summer. While I had heard good things about them, I just didn't find my purchase to be all that efficient. Of course the fact that the shed was un-insulated and a dark green in color didn't help the situation at all. Starting on a late cool morning, even with the setting at maximum, the 30,000 btu unit couldn't hold the temperature, which continued to rise almost as fast as if it wasn't there. Just too much heat escaping around the duct hose and cabinet.

                            Nice idea, and perhaps with better insulation it might have done the job, but I doubt it. I think a window or wall unit would have worked better, and perhaps a mini-split would be best of all. But for something like a shed, where I get absolute minimal time, that wouldn't be worth the investment to me.... not at this time anyway.

                            CWS
                            Think it Through Before You Do!

                            Comment

                            • dbhost
                              Slow and steady
                              • Apr 2008
                              • 9209
                              • League City, Texas
                              • Ryobi BT3100

                              #15
                              Originally posted by cwsmith
                              I bought a portable A/C unit for my 12 x 20 work shed a few years ago, that first summer. While I had heard good things about them, I just didn't find my purchase to be all that efficient. Of course the fact that the shed was un-insulated and a dark green in color didn't help the situation at all. Starting on a late cool morning, even with the setting at maximum, the 30,000 btu unit couldn't hold the temperature, which continued to rise almost as fast as if it wasn't there. Just too much heat escaping around the duct hose and cabinet.

                              Nice idea, and perhaps with better insulation it might have done the job, but I doubt it. I think a window or wall unit would have worked better, and perhaps a mini-split would be best of all. But for something like a shed, where I get absolute minimal time, that wouldn't be worth the investment to me.... not at this time anyway.

                              CWS
                              Not sure where to start. But let's give it a whack....

                              For starters... If you are adding heat faster than the unit can remove it, there is no real hope for cooling. Start off with insulation. Even with my shop only 3/4 insulated (I have one wall left to do...) my 12.5K BTU unit keeps my 16 x 22 garage workshop cool in coastal Texas summer heat. It struggles to do it, but it DOES keep up... I just have to give it a couple of hours to kill the heat load in there before I start adding more...

                              Secondly, I know of no 30K BTU portable units, at least not consumer grade units. There are industrial spot coolers that rely on jamming the heat up through a drop ceiling and into a plenum, the are frequently used in data centers for emergency cooling when the main unit goes on the fritz... I seriously doubt that is what you are using at home in that small of a space... So I gotta know. What make and model is your portable unit?

                              Thirdly, and this is absolutely without a doubt, a Window or through wall AC unti, let alone a mini split system would be FAR more effective. Ideally a mini split. The squirrel cage fan in most portable units just isn't strong enough to move air efficiently...

                              This is a great time of year to dig into this sort of project. Insulate those wall cavities, chances are in a shed, they are just exposed studs. Heck hang insulation on them and cover that with peg board or what have you.... Window unit AC is plenty cheap this time of year....

                              The best wood shop in my area I know of belongs to a friend. It's a 16x20 with a gambrel roof. He and I fully insulated including a radiant barrier, and peg boarded the thing, including insulation in the floor, and then tossed a 12K BTU window unit AC he got from a Craigslist free listing. It works great, and keeps his shop at a really nice temp quickly. Yes it IS easier to do when you are just setting it up. Which is why my one wall is still uninsulated....
                              Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

                              Comment

                              Working...