Power Switch Replacement

[Seawolf72]

My BT300 has served me well. But the power switch began locking in the ON position creating a safety issue. I dismantled the switch and tried cleaning it but to no avail. So after reading the thread on Ryobi recall I called South Carolina. Talked with David who could not have been more helpful. He said that none were in stock but would check with some more senior people and call me back. Two days later he called to confirm that Ryobi no longer has replacements. The news he gave me was astounding - he had ordered a replacement saw that had already been shipped. It is a jobsite 10" table saw model RTS12.

I appreciate their generosity of replacing a switch with a new saw but I love my BT300. So my question is are there any after market replacements you would recommend or should I look for a parted out switch on eBay. My serial number ends in 9614.

[cwsmith]

Did you mean Bt3000? (not "300")

I just did a quick Google search and here is the link to what I found:

https://www.google.com/search?q=powe...me.rb&ie=UTF-8

I hope this helps,

CWS

[twistsol]

When I had a switch fail on mine many years ago and the replacements were backordered, I hardwired my saw to on and plugged it in to one of these available from Rockler. I eventually put in the real replacement switch. This is now on my radial arm saw which has had a wonky switch since the mid 80's.

https://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch

[LCHIEN]

I can offer a few ideas.

• One, the original switches were what engineers call two pole switches, DPDT to be exact. They only wired half the switch, using one pole. You can wire the switch using the other pole to continue operation until the same thing eventually happens to the second pole but that can take a few years. The switch has 6 contacts arranged 2 x 3 and the terminals are the friction slip on kind we call fast-ons. In the row of three, 2 are used. Move the wires one at a time to the other column of three, using the same two out of three on the other side. In the normal mounting position the columns of three run vertically. The center is always used.
• Another thing you can do is get a power tool switch. Just search replacement power tool switch on Amazon, make sure you get one rated for 15A and has a safety lift to turn on, big red press to stop paddle. You can wire it into your saw to replace the switch with some modification or mount it in an external box. some people mount them to the underside of the front rail. Maybe some extension wiring of an appropriate gauge (14 ga. or larger diameter)
• A third option involving little or no do it yourself work is to buy a cord, switch, box and outlet assembly for power tools. Its a switched extension cord. Just replace the entire BT3000 power cord, switch and little outlet on the side. Plug that short plug on the side into the extension cord. It even has a female cord to connect to the short cord of the BT3000 on the side. Mounting the switch box to the side of the saw somewhere convenient. I searched amazon for power tool replacement cord with safety switch. This bypasses the troublesome BT3000 switch completely. Note: no difference between 110V and 120V, but I would get the one rated 16A. Although they look the same to me.
  

Hope that helps.

[dbhost]

My BT3100 needs a new switch. it cuts on / off in operation and I have narrowed it down to the switch. Planning on using one of those table saw switches for Craftsman / Ryobi that Loring shows above... Should be an easy swap...

[capncarl]

I don’t think you can get any better than the tool switch with a paddle stop feature. Without a doubt they will have more robust contacts than the original switch. Any time any of my switches fail I install one of these switches where I want them, not necessarily where the original engineers thought they should be.

[LCHIEN]

if you want a switch with improved safety, then get one of those magnetic tool switches.

They have the feature that when you turn it on it electromagnetically (with its green switch) it latches in the on position and turning it off (with the red switch) releases the electromagnetics and switches off.

The safety feature is that if power is interrupted then the electromagnetics is also released and the switch will go to the off state and not pass power until the green start button is pushed. It will not fire back up when power is restored at the circuit breaker or the power company. In other words it shuts the machine to the off state if there is any power cut off from outside sources. Including one that kills the lights. You can be fumbling around in the dark but don' have to be afraid the lights will come on and the saw will bite you.

THe standard switches stay in the on position after a power failure and will start right up when the power is restored, if you are ready or not..
Here at Amazon I found three types, one a box you can wire in, one with male and female cords you can plug into, and one you can mount in the panel.

[capncarl]

My older Powermatic table saw had the old non electromagnet starter switch on it. I was using it late at night and the power went off so I safely backed away and locked up the shop. Several days later when I went to the shop the saw was running, i suppose it came back on when the power was restored. So yes, go with the electromagnetic contactor switch, a few bucks more is still cheaper than a tablesaw accident.