Non-turned: Rifle Cleaning Stand

[Sam Conder]

Depends on how much wood putty I have on hand.

Sam Conder

http://www.bt3central.com

[Stytooner]

I can get greater than a 1/64th" accuracy with the micro-positioning device. I am pleased with a 64th accuracy on my chessboards, box joints and tenons. 1/4" for rough carpentry is pretty sorry. [}]

1/16" or better is desired.

Lee

http://www.leestyron.com

[twistsol]

If LOML can see the joint, it's too big. LOML can spot a virus at 200 yards, but can't see coloring books, magazines, or toys on the living room floor.

Consulting - If you're not part of the solution, there's good money to be made prolonging the problem.

Chr's

[Sawduster]

quote:Originally posted by Stytooner

I can get greater than a 1/64th" accuracy with the micro-positioning device. I am pleased with a 64th accuracy on my chessboards, box joints and tenons. 1/4" for rough carpentry is pretty sorry. [}]

1/16" or better is desired.

Lee

http://www.leestyron.com

I concur. Anyhting less than 1/64th is probably irrelevant. Remember, we are working with a living media. It is gonna move. All the hoopla over .005 " of runout on a saw blade is crap.

Now rough work? Had a fella on my crew years ago when I hung drywall for a living. His previous experience had been doing piecework in CA where even then they were specialized. One crew hung the ceilings, another came in and did walls. Different piece rates for each. His favorite saying was, "It'll tape." We worked by the hour, and the little extra time it took to leave a corner intact, or a butt joint closed made up for the additional time it took the finishers to fix the mess.

Putting in a window over the weekend with an opening underneath for an AC I had a horizontal member that did not friction fit where a hammer tap was needed to get it in place. In fact it was so bad that I could actually see a little light along part of the edge. Tossed that 2 X 4 to the shorts pile and recut it so I didn't have to hold it by hand to measure the length of the uprights that went under it. With that kind of attention to detail I'd get fired on the typical framing crew, but the window, when set into the opening was plumb and level without shims underneath, and the AC fit right snug in the opening under it.

Jerry

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it."
~ Thomas Paine ~

[jrhardie]

When I was doing plywood and 2X4 woodworking I would be satisfied with "close enough". Then after buying expensive QSWO and other furniture grade lumber I decided to get some decent measuring tools and have been very happy with the results. I typically use a couple of Incra tools now and the tolerances have come way down.

Jim in TN.

[RodKirby]

I go for 1/256", but then I'm funny that way [)]

If I measure/mark/cut right, my BT3000 does it every time [8D]

A Professional is someone who does what they say they will do.

[Stytooner]

Rod, I had no doubt about your tolerances.


Lee

http://www.leestyron.com

[leehljp]

Since our beloved saw will cut in such small increments, I measure in frog's hairs, smidgins and whats that new measuring system . . Poofteenth.

Hank

[DUD]

If she's happy it's good enough. Bill

If You can't be good for nothing, do it for free!

[pnctar]

Guess I'm a little a... too. Install custom screen doors all day that are guanteed within 1/16". If I'm not within 1/64" it ain't close enough and I'll go down to 1/256" even though I KNOW it's gonna move and give. Comes from working on guns to long.

pnctar
Shadow box?! and you want it when?

[LCHIEN]

probably 1/32 is good enough for most furniture and stuff.
On puzzles, jigs and small items I make I like to try and hold about 0.010" which is between 1/64" and 1/128" using calipers and stuff.

Machinists can hold about .001" to .003" in aluminum, brass, and steel, but their material is much more stable with temperature and humidity, not like wood which grows and shrinks.




Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.

[Sawduster]

quote:Originally posted by RodKirby

I go for 1/256", but then I'm funny that way [)]

If I measure/mark/cut right, my BT3000 does it every time [8D]

A Professional is someone who does what they say they will do.

That seems to be a bit intolerant to me.

Brings to mind what an old woodworker told me about measuring and cutting. You measure with the most accurate instrument you have, mark the cut line with a sharp knife, then split the cut line with the edge of your saw blade. How accurate is that? I can see 1/64" on a very fine measuring instrument, 1/128" I don't believe I could see, and 1/256th" I don't think I could visuallize in my mind.

Jerry

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it."
~ Thomas Paine ~

[RodKirby]

Jerry - You're right of course. It was a "tongue in cheek" post!

Depending on the situation...
- If two work pieces need to be the same length, then +/- zero is my margin of error.
- If two pieces are being joined (rabbet), I cut the rabbet a "poofteenth" deeper to allow for glue.
- IMHO Using stops/fences allows us to get very close (1/256"?) to +/- zero.
- etc., etc.

I will always work towards this end.

A Professional is someone who does what they say they will do.

[John L]

Ever heard the expression: Split a hair - well Rob probably has a jig to do it on the BT3100.... lol.

John L.

[LCHIEN]

quote:Originally posted by Sawduster

I can see 1/64" on a very fine measuring instrument, 1/128" I don't believe I could see, and 1/256th" I don't think I could visuallize in my mind.

1/256" is about .004" which is the thickness of a dollar bill.

Stack up 256 dollar bills and you'll have ... [8)] $256. [8D]


Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.