Drill press and sander

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  • capncarl
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 3564
    • Leesburg Georgia USA
    • SawStop CTS

    #16
    Drill press Chuck keys can be bought by the pound at eBay! Don’t let a missing key derail your purchase I’d you are serious about it. If you diddle around you loose.

    I had a good friend that really wanted a salt water boat, said help me find one. Shortly I ran across a great deal on a 21’ boat that was used for a dive class, perfect for wha the needed. There were 4-5 people looking at it, kicking the tires and climbing all over it when I was finally able to get him to look at it. He started looking in the live wells, glove box, anchor locker, trailer lights and everything that doesn’t have anything to do with a serviceable boat. To make the story short, while he was talking to the owner about taking the boat for a test ride the “new owner” was already hooking the boat to his truck. If you snooze you loose!

    Comment

    • LCHIEN
      Internet Fact Checker
      • Dec 2002
      • 20913
      • Katy, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 vintage 1999

      #17
      Finding a chuck key will be a bit of work, but probably doable. Easier than finding a nice drill press.
      At the Very worst you can buy a new Chuck, the DP will have a standard JT3 taper. And a chuck will come with a key.
      Some oil and some work will make the raising and lowering mechanism work better, the rack us just a loose strip and it revolves around the column so you can turn the table right and left. Its held against vertical forces with a couple of rings top and bottom that allow it to rotate. Some flex is normal on mine, Its all moot once you lock the table to the column.

      Is the key really missing? I think the drill looks very much like a Hitachi model, my Hitachi has a key holder on the right side of the upper motor. On my first benchtop Craftsman DP I always stored the key under the belt cover to keep from losing it. On my second Delta DP I put the check on one of those retracting badge lanyards and fastened it to the shelf just above the DP

      I'll bet this fixes it. https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Drill-Chu...07G3RGN5G&th=1
      JT3 taper 5/8" chuck with key - $18. Just tell the guy it'll cost at least $20 to fix the key issue so have him knock $20 off his best offer.
      Last edited by LCHIEN; 04-23-2021, 10:11 PM.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

      Comment

      • nicer20
        Established Member
        • Sep 2007
        • 365
        • Dublin, CA
        • BT3100

        #18
        Thanks Capncarl - I heed your advice. I am serious - but just checking since chuck key for older models may be difficult to come by. Also without the key I am not able to open the rusted chuck to see if it is working either. Thanks again for your support

        Comment

        • mpc
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2005
          • 979
          • Cypress, CA, USA.
          • BT3000 orig 13amp model

          #19
          The raising/lowering rack is, as Loring already noted, a separate piece. It doesn't actually bolt or attach to the column; instead each end is captured by rings that are clamped to the column. The ends of the rack fit into grooves or bevel-edged notches in the rings, similar to how sliding cabinet doors ride in upper and lower grooves in the cabinet frame. This way the rack can move around the vertical column along with the work table; on drill presses you can push/pivot the table around the column to get it out of the way or, when the table is rotated 90 degrees (i.e. to vertical) you can clamp a workpiece to it and then pivot the table+workpiece to position the workpiece under the drill bit. So the rack isn't "taped" to the column at all. The whole setup looks flimsy but it's a tried-and-true system used on almost all drill presses. Keeping it clean and lubricated is the secret.

          If you decide to buy this drill press:
          Since you said it bowed when you tried to move the table, that tells me it is rusted into the table clamp area. That may or may not take much effort to fix. Typical rust penetrate fluid (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, the super-power spray stuff sold by Toyota dealer's parts desks, etc.), or even WD-40 might be enough to free it. Once free, clean and lubricate the parts.

          1: If you look closely at the rings, you'll see they have a regular screw or Allen-head setscrew clamping them. Loosen the one on the upper ring and slide the ring up the column. Crank the table upwards until it walks itself off the rack. Now the rack should lift out of the lower ring. Carefully lower the table to the drill press base/pedestal as nothing will be supporting it now. Drill press racks are fairly simple - just gear-like teeth on a strip of metal - so it probably would be easy enough to find one with similar tooth width and spacing on a rack the same length or longer than this one. If a potential replacement is too long, hacksaw it shorter and use a file to (laboriously) grind down a tooth or two on the end so it'll fit into the ring.

          2: Chuck and chuck key: the chuck is press-fit onto a specific taper shape on the end of the drill press quill shaft. These are standard tapers normally so swapping out the entire chuck is easy and not expensive as Loring already noted. See if you can find/download the owner's manual to this tool to verify which taper it has. A replacement chuck only needs to have a matching taper; it does not have to be the same outer dimensions nor even the same 5/8ths capacity though it'd suck to have to buy a smaller capacity chuck. On hand-held drills the chuck typically has a screw deep inside it to fasten it to the drill body; I've never seen that on drill presses (that's the whole point of the taper - it wedges tight enough that a screw should not be necessary)... check the owner's manual or a parts list/exploded parts diagram to verify this drill press doesn't have a chuck screw. That'd be weird.

          3: There are aftermarket chuck keys available... one available at Home Depot types of stores, and maybe Harbor Freight, is a "+" shape with four different sized keys. That might be all this drill press needs. Otherwise, remove the chuck and take it to places selling drill presses or large hand drills... find one with the same tooth spacing on the chuck rim, the same distance from the teeth to the edge of the chuck key hole, and the same diameter hole; they try to buy a replacement key for that tool. How to remove the chuck? Use the handles to lower the quill and chuck all the way, then lock them in that position (if possible) or have a helper hold them. On the quill itself you should see a cut-out window. Rotate the chuck by hand and eventually a hole in the inner shaft will line up with it. The very top of the chuck tapered part will be visible too. A wedge-shaped thick piece of metal is slid into the openings and hammer tapped to push the chuck out. The proper wedge came with the drill press but, if the original owner lost the chuck key, I'd bet he lost the wedge tool as well. Pictures can be found at this link: Methods to remove a drill press chuck

          How bad/deep was the column rust - did it look like it would clean up without too much work? Or was it pitted? Since the table clamp mechanism was rust-locked, I fear the column rust might be nasty too.

          Good luck whatever you do.

          mpc

          Comment

          • nicer20
            Established Member
            • Sep 2007
            • 365
            • Dublin, CA
            • BT3100

            #20
            Originally posted by LCHIEN
            Finding a chuck key will be a bit of work, but probably doable. Easier than finding a nice drill press.
            At the Very worst you can buy a new Chuck, the DP will have a standard JT3 taper. And a chuck will come with a key.
            Some oil and some work will make the raising and lowering mechanism work better, the rack us just a loose strip and it revolves around the column so you can turn the table right and left. Its held against vertical forces with a couple of rings top and bottom that allow it to rotate. Some flex is normal on mine, Its all moot once you lock the table to the column.

            Is the key really missing? I think the drill looks very much like a Hitachi model, my Hitachi has a key holder on the right side of the upper motor. Hard to lose it if you use that. On my first benchtop Craftsman DP I always stored the key under the belt cover to keep from losing it. On my second Delta DP I put the check on one of those retracting badge lanyards and fastened it to the shelf just above the DP

            I'll bet this fixes it. https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Drill-Chu...07G3RGN5G&th=1
            JT3 taper 5/8" chuck with key - $18. Just tell the guy it'll cost at least $20 to fix the key issue so have him knock $20 off his best offer.
            That is awesome.

            You removed both of my biggest concern !! Hats off to you - for that Amazon link. Earlier I had checked eBay and was shocked to see chucks being sold at $70 ! But this $20 chuck with key - sweeeeeeeet !!!

            Thanks, I just texted the seller that I will be coming back tomorrow.

            I am indebted to all of you...........

            NG
            Last edited by LCHIEN; 04-24-2021, 09:51 AM.

            Comment

            • capncarl
              Veteran Member
              • Jan 2007
              • 3564
              • Leesburg Georgia USA
              • SawStop CTS

              #21
              I think there is a lot of good advice about this drill press, but don’t let this advice, or your haste to buy a tool convince you to buy something that is not useable or is deteriorated to the point it is not worth your time or money! A lesser quality tool from an import company is better than a once good rusted tool. Ask yourself if this drill press is worth your time, labor and money to repair. Are you capable of doing the repairs? Do you want to spend many hours scrubbing rust off a drill press just to save a few bucks? Lots of people have salvaged usable tools from years of rust caused by its owners neglect, and probably plenty of people have attempted the task and given up and abandoned the project.

              Your first photo of the drill press showed a salvageable drill press. If the rust and a few missing pieces is all the damage, then it might be a good buy if you are willing to spend the time cleaning it, but if there is damage to the lifting and clamping mechanism, that’s another story. Chucks and keys can be purchased at a reasonable price, I know, I’ve purchased several in the last couple of years.

              if it was my call, I would watch auction sites, Craigslist etc to find a drill press that didn’t require so much rehabilitation. The sander is a good enough machine that you will not have to spend so much time on rehab, if the price is good enough.

              Keep us posted on your decision. Advice here is free, but it’s your sweat that is expensive.

              Comment


              • nicer20
                nicer20 commented
                Editing a comment
                Very true and thanks for sharing this perspective. I am visiting the seller again today with more knowledge and all these perspectives to reassess and make a final decision.

                Thanks a bunch

                NG
            • LCHIEN
              Internet Fact Checker
              • Dec 2002
              • 20913
              • Katy, TX, USA.
              • BT3000 vintage 1999

              #22
              BTW, you said the Craftsman model number was 137.229150
              137.xxxxxxx is the code for Hitatchi manufactured products.

              And Ereplacementparts .com shows there is indeed a key holder bracket on the right side, part #91. No longer available but it did have one.

              Click image for larger version

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              Last edited by LCHIEN; 04-24-2021, 10:00 AM.
              Loring in Katy, TX USA
              If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
              BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

              Comment


              • nicer20
                nicer20 commented
                Editing a comment
                Oh wow - glad to know that it is a Hitachi manufactured machine.
            • LCHIEN
              Internet Fact Checker
              • Dec 2002
              • 20913
              • Katy, TX, USA.
              • BT3000 vintage 1999

              #23
              One more thing... CHuck keys are sized by the diameter of the pilot the hole on the end that fits into the chuck. And the Gear teeth. Of course the gear teeth are hard to count if you don't have the key. But the key for my Hitachi is .312 or 5/16ths, and has 12 teeth.

              THat sorts it out quite a bit but apparently there are both metric and ANSI sizes.
              Loring in Katy, TX USA
              If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
              BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

              Comment


              • nicer20
                nicer20 commented
                Editing a comment
                I will try to find a key with these specs today in HD and head over to the seller to check out.

                Again can't thank you enough for the priceless advice I am getting.

                NG
            • nicer20
              Established Member
              • Sep 2007
              • 365
              • Dublin, CA
              • BT3100

              #24
              Originally posted by mpc
              The raising/lowering rack is, as Loring already noted, a separate piece. It doesn't actually bolt or attach to the column; instead each end is captured by rings that are clamped to the column. The ends of the rack fit into grooves or bevel-edged notches in the rings, similar to how sliding cabinet doors ride in upper and lower grooves in the cabinet frame. This way the rack can move around the vertical column along with the work table; on drill presses you can push/pivot the table around the column to get it out of the way or, when the table is rotated 90 degrees (i.e. to vertical) you can clamp a workpiece to it and then pivot the table+workpiece to position the workpiece under the drill bit. So the rack isn't "taped" to the column at all. The whole setup looks flimsy but it's a tried-and-true system used on almost all drill presses. Keeping it clean and lubricated is the secret.

              If you decide to buy this drill press:
              .........
              Good luck whatever you do.

              mpc
              Can not thank you enough for all the priceless advice.

              NG

              Comment

              • LCHIEN
                Internet Fact Checker
                • Dec 2002
                • 20913
                • Katy, TX, USA.
                • BT3000 vintage 1999

                #25
                This is the manual for my Hitachi DP, from the similarities to the model you stated (after looking at the Parts list on Ereplacements and at the pictures you posted, I think it has a lot of design features in common with my DP, so this manual may help you

                b16rm 120 V version US.pdf
                Click image for larger version

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                Loring in Katy, TX USA
                If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                Comment

                • LCHIEN
                  Internet Fact Checker
                  • Dec 2002
                  • 20913
                  • Katy, TX, USA.
                  • BT3000 vintage 1999

                  #26
                  Got it? I have gear acquisition fever and I'm not even getting the stuff!

                  FYI I ordered a chuck key rom amazon fits my 5/16 pilot hole, will let you know Sunday if the gear teeth fit.
                  My check only says 16 mm on it (5/8") so its a metric chuck and I'm not sure if the gear teeth are right. Will let you know.
                  Amazon is good about taking stuff in return if it doesn't fit. Just take it to the Amazon desk in the Kohls 2 miles away.
                  Last edited by LCHIEN; 04-24-2021, 09:07 PM.
                  Loring in Katy, TX USA
                  If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                  BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                  Comment


                  • nicer20
                    nicer20 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I was on my way when the seller called to reschedule for tomorrow. But assured me that I will be the one getting it - no one else is currently being entertained.

                    Anyway I was only going to pay today as I need to solicit some help. Luckily my son will be visiting tomorrow whom I have already summoned for the task. As you said earlier these things are darn heavy. I am planning to take the head off to be able to transport it in my van. Hope that is not a crazy idea.

                    Oh and yes returning on Amazon is pretty easy - in my case Kohl's is even 10 min. walking distance from my home :-)

                    NG
                • LCHIEN
                  Internet Fact Checker
                  • Dec 2002
                  • 20913
                  • Katy, TX, USA.
                  • BT3000 vintage 1999

                  #27
                  I have some good news for you. I have been for a while wanting a spare chuck key for mine.
                  As a result of our conversation and pondering the variables in check key size I thought the Jacob's Chuck key for 1/2 to 5/8" chuck capacity would work for my chuck for $8
                  I ordered one Friday and it came this morning and fit perfectly. The pilot hole matched (5/16) but I was worried because the number of teeth on mine was 12 and on the Jacobs, just 11. But number of teeth and pitch are not the same thing with a different crown dia, on a 90 degree crown gear. So end result, it fits perfectly..


                  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
                  I would bet good money that this chuck key fits your DP and if not, like I said, its easy to return. Just verify that the pilot hole is 5/16"

                  Don't waste your time at Lowes or HD, I've looked there in the past and they only have keys for smaller hand drills.
                  Last edited by LCHIEN; 04-25-2021, 06:16 PM.
                  Loring in Katy, TX USA
                  If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                  BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                  Comment

                  • nicer20
                    Established Member
                    • Sep 2007
                    • 365
                    • Dublin, CA
                    • BT3100

                    #28
                    Hello Fellas !!

                    I got it !! I got it !!!! It is Here !!


                    And BTW Loring I went to HD this morning (before I read your comment) and got this key - only $4 with tax.
                    Attached Files

                    Comment

                    • LCHIEN
                      Internet Fact Checker
                      • Dec 2002
                      • 20913
                      • Katy, TX, USA.
                      • BT3000 vintage 1999

                      #29
                      I guess thats it the chuck key. I guess I was wrong about HD.
                      I imagine the table elevation will work fine it's very tough and surface rust is cosmetic. Give it a good oiling and let it work in with some use.
                      Loring in Katy, TX USA
                      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                      Comment

                      • nicer20
                        Established Member
                        • Sep 2007
                        • 365
                        • Dublin, CA
                        • BT3100

                        #30
                        So now I guess some light sanding with an emery paper and sander or angle grinder is due. Should I follow that with some surface protection (like paste wax or something else) to make sure it doesn't rust again.

                        And what kind of lubricants to use for -

                        1. table elevation mechanism
                        2. Quill & spindle
                        3. Chuck
                        4. Table rotation etc.

                        I see you are recommending some kind of oil but just like the table saw mechanism should I be using dry lubricants??

                        Excited to restore it to as much of its original glory as I can.

                        Thanks in advance,

                        NG

                        Comment

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