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Drill press and sander

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  • #31
    Careful with your lubricants. Some here have suggested silicone based lubricants, but in my experience they are a paint disaster waiting to happen. Nothing like a painted finish on a project with silicone contamination causing fish eyes and bare spots to change your opinion of silicone lubricants. I’m very careful with silicone lubes on my woodworking equipment, I just don’t use them, I use a lesser effective oil base lube.


    • #32
      Direct from my Hitachi manual
      For your own safety, turn the switch “OFF” and remove the plug from the power source outlet before maintaining or lubricating your drill press. Frequently blow out, using an air compressor or dust vacuum, any dust that accumulates inside the motor. A coat of automotive paste wax applied to the table and column will help to keep the surface clean & help to avoid rust.

      To avoid shock or fire hazard, if the power cord is worn or cut in any way, have it replaced immediately.

      LUBRICATION All of the drill press ball bearings are packed with grease at the factory. They require no further lubrication. Periodically lubricate the gear and rack for table elevation, and the mechanism of the spindle the rack (teeth) of the quill

      And that is the entire maintenance.

      I waxed the column and table when it was new. The table surface has not been seen in years since I put a woodworking table on it. I did have to fashion some T-nuts to fasten the table to the DP table slots! Ask me about that when you get one.

      I haven't lubeb it in ages. The drill quill is supposed to be permanently lubed. I would put some oil and maybe some rust preventive on the table raising To be honest the horizontal surface of the table support is covered with sawdust its hard to reach I don't vacuum it off often. I move it up and down frequently. But the rack and pinion is very coarse and its far from the wood working pieces, its not a problem keeping oil away from work. When I cut metal pieces I use cutting oil so I have to keep the table clean. Unless its frozen rusted from being under water, I really don't think you will have to do much to the table raise and lock stuff other than oil it.

      I put some oil on the table lock lever. was OK. I put some oil on the rack and the handle bearing and it does run smoother.

      Finally as mentioned before the rack is a loose piece of metal simply held mostly vertical by the slot in the raising mechanism Its captured by a ring at the top and a groove in the top of the column. When you rotate the table, the table lock is loose and the weight (considerable) of the table rests on the tip of the rack in the bottom groove. I oiled that and where previously the rack would go tick-tick-tick as you rotated the table it now moves more smoothly so I recommend doing that, too.

      One more hint I have learned (for all DP). Put some Teflon pipe sealing tape on the 3 handles to keep them from loosening with use. You will want to take them off every once in a while but all my other drill presses the handles would become loose with use until I learned the Teflon trick. I have some hints on mounting the woodworking table when you do that, too. All handles I've seen are round but usually have a place where flats have been provided to use a wrench if you want to snug them up.

      I looked up the models. Mine is B16RM by HItachi. I noted at the time I bought it that Sears had a nearly identical except for cosmetic details 137.22925. I think you said yours is a 137.22915; I looked at the exploded drawings by ereplacementparts.com and all three are very close cousins so the manual I posted is going to be very close in all respects.
      Last edited by LCHIEN; 04-26-2021, 09:17 PM.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions


      • #33
        Originally posted by nicer20 View Post
        So now I guess some light sanding with an emery paper and sander or angle grinder is due. Should I follow that with some surface protection (like paste wax or something else) to make sure it doesn't rust again.

        And what kind of lubricants to use for -

        1. table elevation mechanism
        2. Quill & spindle
        3. Chuck
        4. Table rotation etc.

        I see you are recommending some kind of oil but just like the table saw mechanism should I be using dry lubricants??

        Excited to restore it to as much of its original glory as I can.

        Thanks in advance,

        Paste wax is a good lubricant and surface protectant for woodworking tools in general - for parts/items that move slowly or not at all and are not under lots of stress. So it can be used on the worktable to prevent rust, on the main post to prevent rust and to aid the table elevation, on the elevation gear inside the table clamp mechanism, and on the rack. Don't use paste wax on bearings; in fact most bearings on woodworking tools are shielded/sealed and are "permanently" lubricated from the factory. And use "furniture" paste wax, be careful with the stuff sold for waxing cars. Most car waxes contain silicone which you don't want anywhere near woodworking tabletops. As capncarl already noted, silicone contamination causes miserable finishing problems. Years ago, folks on this site recommended Johnson's Paste Wax (aka "JPW") in the yellow cans, sold in the furniture polish area of Lowes and other stores. The company has since changed their formula. It used to be a light brown color (inside the can, when new); much of the stuff today is a darker, muddy brown and seems more liquid. I looked inside a few cans recently and some looked like the wax had separated (and looked & smelled disgusting) while others looked "fresh" for lack of a better word. I bought one of the "fresh" mixes and it seems to be working okay on my tools. I wish I had a stockpile of the original stuff! My original can lasted ten years so a "stockpile" of 2 or 3 cans would have been enough. I use JPW on the worktables of all my woodworking tools, including the BT3 and its fence, to make it easier to slide workpieces across the tools. There are other brands of silicone-free paste wax on the market; they work as well as original JPW. Do NOT wax the BT3's fence support rails though; otherwise the fence won't be able to grip/lock down sufficiently. There are also spray-cans of "dry lubricant" that do a good job of protecting tabletops and other exposed (unpainted) metal on tools.

        Light machine oil is what the updated Rikon drill press manual specifies on the quill parts where they move inside one-another and in/out of the drill press head. I've never added any lubrication to this area of my drill press; after many years it still works smoothly. I checked it yesterday and the grease at the very top (visible where the v-belt pulley attaches to the quill assembly) is still clean and grit-free.

        Rikon now specifies #2 lube grease (from toothpaste-like tubes) for the gears in the table elevation mechanism and on the rack... I use JPW on the rack however and my drill press is still working fine after many years. The original Rikon manual didn't specify any particular grease which is why I went with JPW; online/downloadable updates now say #2 lube. Oh well. I'm sticking with JPW as it's cleaner and seems to be working fine. I also use JPW on the inside of the clamping surface.

        Note: the chuck taper and the spindle/mating area in the quill should be absolutely clean! No lubrication nor wax on these parts, otherwise they won't stick together when the drill press is working hard. When re-installing them, rotate the chuck until the 3 gripping fingers are completely inside the chuck (to protect them), then slide the chuck+taper into the quill assembly. Many arbor pieces have a flat spot on one end, line that up with mating notches visible in the spindle/quill window. With a wood mallet, or a regular hammer + block of wood, drive the chuck upwards into the drill press to seat it. Don't directly hammer on the chuck with a metal hammer; use a board or block of wood to prevent metal-on-metal contact.

        mike c.

        edit: Loring replied to you while I was typing this. The boldfaced text from his Hitachi manual mimics what is in my original Rikon manual other than the "automotive wax" recommendation - mine says simply "paste wax". No specific grease or even type of grease was specified back then.
        Last edited by mpc; 04-26-2021, 04:27 PM.


        • #34
          This is years of dust accumulation on my DP table elevation. I clean the top off regularly and suck up cuttings with my Kirby inspired dust pickup.

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          I'm going to suggest dust accumulation on a DP is different than on a Table saw. The table saw has the motor and the elevation and tilt stuff all located below the table top, which coincidentally is where the cuttings go.

          On a DP, the motor is up high, the quill and pulleys are all up high. The table elevation and rack is well below & behind the table. So dust and its attraction to oil is not the problem it is on table saws. Yeah, here's how much dust the quill rack and pinion has accumulated in 15 years:
          Click image for larger version

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          The dust is thrown off the TS blade at speeds approaching 100 mph... 5000 RPM and radius of 10 inches. But on a DP I use mostly around 1500-2000 RPM but with a radius hardly exceeding 1 inch (above which I slow the RPMS) so the tangential speed is 10 times less and dust doesn't get thrown around like on a TS.

          Drill press dust collection video: https://www.sawdustzone.org/filedata/fetch?id=826969
          Last edited by LCHIEN; 04-27-2021, 12:33 PM.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions


          • #35
            Originally posted by capncarl View Post
            Careful with your lubricants. Some here have suggested silicone based lubricants, but in my experience they are a paint disaster waiting to happen.
            Agreed, it is shop herpes, just like oils. But worse than oils, silicone sticks around forever and you almost can never get rid of it. I put dry lubes on everything, zero oils, zero silicone in my shop, ever. Good dry lubes work on everything. Oh, except occasionally a bee's wax and turpentine mixture for certain things. It's like a heavy grease but won't contaminate things.


            • #36
              Thank you guys for providing further insights into lubricating and maintenance for the DP. I will be getting onto it. Sorry for the delayed response. Had 3 deaths in family related to COVID - been a terrible week and half. Recovering now from the grief but will need time before mind is ready to go back to the workshop.

              Thank you for all the help.



              • #37
                So sorry to hear about that. I had two family members really sick, one in ICU, but at least no deaths. I had it, mild case. And still I have some other relatives who worship the orange moron and say it's no big deal, no masks, no care at all.


                • #38
                  Originally posted by nicer20 View Post

                  That is awesome.

                  You removed both of my biggest concern !! Hats off to you - for that Amazon link. Earlier I had checked eBay and was shocked to see chucks being sold at $70 ! But this $20 chuck with key - sweeeeeeeet !!!

                  Thanks, I just texted the seller that I will be coming back tomorrow.

                  I am indebted to all of you...........

                  When I lost my key, I used my calipers to measure the hole in the chuck of my DP and looked for a corresponding chuck pilot size and ordered that. Once I got it and it worked, I ordered a second one. It is great to have a second one on hand at all times!

                  Then I did what I learned from Loring - bought a few of those magnetic dishes (got some free with coupons) and one is on the side of the DP. I keep my keys there. They don't go anywhere that way. I got tired of key chuck holders and wire and string that didn't keep it where it is supposed to be.
                  Last edited by leehljp; 05-05-2021, 01:11 PM.
                  Hank Lee

                  Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!


                  • #39
                    The drill press is a motorized tool designed to bore holes in wood (woodyman reviews), metal or plastic. Like a handheld drill, drill presses utilize various types of bits to make holes of different diameters. But unlike a handheld drill, drill presses are stationary or bench-top machines.