Switch Electrical Question

[phrog]

My band saw switch just bit the dust. It had the following specs printed on it: ""20/12A 125/250V."

I want to replace it with a "Paddle" switch. I found one on eBay that says: "16A 110V."
I also found one that says : "35/20A 110/220V."
Can I use either of these as a replacement?
Which, if either, is better?

The band saw was being run on a 110V circuit.

Thanks.

[vaking]

Original switch can disconnect up to 20 Amp circuit on 110V, the second switch you listed can disconnect 35 Amps circuit on same voltage, so it can definitely do the job. The first switch you found can disconnect 16 Amps, which is less than the original switch is rated for. However, typical 110Volts circuit is usually designed for just 15 Amps, which means that even that switch will be able to do the job.
So I would answer your question this way:
Second switch is better but most likely either of the switches you found will do.

[woodturner]

However, typical 110Volts circuit is usually designed for just 15 Amps.

Generally agree with what you posted, but typical 110 VAC circuits are either 15 A or 20 A. 20 A is very common in shops.

In other words, the first switch the OP listed is NOT a suitable replacement, the second one (35A) is.

[phrog]

Thanks to both of you'all. You confirmed what I thought to be true. Although I think the circuit to be 15 A, I am not sure and will probably pay the extra for the second switch. How can you tell, for sure if the circuit is 15 or 20 A?

[woodturner]

Thanks to both of you'all. You confirmed what I thought to be true. Although I think the circuit to be 15 A, I am not sure and will probably pay the extra for the second switch. How can you tell, for sure if the circuit is 15 or 20 A?

Easiest way is to check the breaker - if the breaker is 15A, it's a 15A circuit.

It's possible the original switch was oversized, but likely not. Even on a 15A circuit, a motor will draw three to five times the rated current on startup. Drawing 35A for a brief period would not be unusual, and would not trip a 15A breaker (breakers trip immediately on massive overcurrent (like hundreds of amps), or after minutes on moderate overcurrent (like 20A)).

The 35A switch would have more margin and likely be a better option, even if you can confirm a 15A circuit. Unless that switch is a lot more expensive, I would choose that one.

[capncarl]

Your switch is a perfect example of same situation that Ryobi created with their BT3 switches, and have been replacing them at their cost for a number of years. Save yourself the problem of having to replace the switch again in the future by installing the higher amp switch now. I've seen this type switch failure on nearly every Delta tool I've owned. Too bad the manufacturing company doesn't use the same switches on their paycheck printing machine and suffer the same inconvenience their customers experience!
capncarl

[phrog]

Thanks. I took your'all's (Southern 2nd person plural possessive) advise; I ordered the 35A one. It was about $8 more. Thanks vaking, woodturner, and capncarl.
Note to capncarl: It is a DELTA bandsaw. (Not used much either.)

[phrog]

Just received this "paddle" switch yesterday. It is HUGE. Going to have to do some modifying to make it work but it will be worth the trouble.

[LCHIEN]

I'd go with the beefier switch (35A).
It will keep your BS properly rated.

[twistsol]

Thanks. I took your'all's (Southern 2nd person plural possessive)

I always thought the proper grammar for that was "all y'all's"

[phrog]

Thanks, Loring. I did and it works. Just got to modify the cabinet a little to make it fit.

[phrog]

I always thought the proper grammar for that was "all y'all's"

I think both are acceptable in the Southerner's Dictionary.

[LCHIEN]

... How can you tell, for sure if the circuit is 15 or 20 A?

Just got back from three weeks w/o much internet access.

The breaker will tell for sure. It will either be a 15A or 20A in all likelihood.
The 20A circuit should have heavier wiring - 12 Ga IIRC, the 15A can get by with 14 Ga.
The other "tell" is the type of plug and receptacle.
For 20A appliances you should have a NEMA 5-20P plug


The normal 120VAC 15A AC plug (NEMA 5-15P) has two parallel prongs.
The 20A (NEAM 5-20P) has one vertical, one horizontal prong. (better pic below)


The 15A receptacle (NEMA 5-15R) has two parallel slots
The 20A receptacle (NEMA 5-20R) has one vertical slot and one slot with a T so that it will accept either 15 or 20A plugs!

Theoretically your BS should have a 120VAC 20A plug and if you have a 20A circuit it should have an outlet with a 20A receptacle (although its quite OK to have just 15A receptacles if you plan on plugging only appliances drawing 15A or less into it.

Having the correct plug on your 20A BS prevents you from plugging it into a 15A receptacle and possibly tripping the breaker at high cutting loads, although the circuit breaker should save you from any disaster.

If you have a 20A branch (correct breaker and wiring) the personally I would spend 4-5 bucks and put the right receptacle and plugs on.
You can get them readily at Lowes or HD, NEMA 5-20P and NEMA 5-20R, they are a little more expensive than the 15A mainly because they don't sell near as many.

BTW, it's Y'all's he should have used.
Y'all is already plural. Y'all's would be plural possessive.
(Living in Texas for 55 years.)