Advice on table saw choice

[TrackDays]

Hey everyone, finally time to be upgrading my table saw. Only weekend work, speaker boxes, some cabinets.

Found 2 good deals and hoping for opinions.

1. Is a Ryobi BT3100 w/accessory kit for $300. Heard a lot of good things about this saw, and it is practically new.

2. Old Rockwell Model 10 contractor saw with 50" biesemeyer fence. Needs new belts and not sure how easy they are to come by?????
Also the seller mentioned it has a 1 HP dayton motor which seems underpowered to me. Price is great though at $250. This saw also has a Forrest blade, featherboard, and few other goodies.

Any opinions really appreciated.

[Alex Franke]

Welcome to the best forum on the planet!

I'm partial to the bt3 -- especially since it's "practically new". It's more of a known quantity. Of course that fence and blade would be nice...

[Uncle Cracker]

Welcome aboard...

The Rockwell probably is underpowered at 1-HP. The BT3100 is a bit pricey if all it comes with is the accessory kit.

You should factor into your decision some projections about what things you will be doing with your saw, as one or the other might be better suited for the type of work you do.

[Sawatzky]

Beings that the saw is a Rockwell means it is an old machine, and 1 HP is on the low side of power. I do think contractor saws have some advatages to the BT (which is why I switched from the BT to a Ridgid contractor saw), but not at that price or age. You might want to see if a Home Depot near you has the newer Ridgid hybrid saw on clearance. Many have been getting these saws for $400.00. This is a great price on a true hybrid saw with cabinet mounted trunions, mobile base, and granite top. If you can find one, you will have one heck of a saw for an amazingly low price.

[herb fellows]

The ww blade and the bessy fence sound awful good, but you have to remember you are buying a saw, not parts.

When I bought my first house, we were astounded at the chestnut woodwork. After a few weeks, that sort of wore off and we had to deal with the house as a whole with all the shortcomings we didn't see because we were drooling over the woodwork.

[Charlie]

The Biesemeyer fence alone is worth the asking price of the Rockwell Contractor's saw. It would be interesting to see a picture of it. I'm guessing that it has cast iron wings on it and the crows foot stand. A Fenner Drives PowerTwist link belt ( for about $30 I'm guessing ) would be far better then the stock belt. The saw should have a 1 1/2 hp motor on it, but even if you buy a new motor for it you'd still have a pretty good deal on a saw that will easily outlast and out perform a BT, plus has a premium fence, and was American made. I also recommend pulling the tiny toggle power switch and electrical box out of the inside of the saw cabinet for two reasons. One, the electrical box in it's stock location fills up with dust. Two, the tiny toggle power switch is hard to find during sawing operations. I replaced mine with a large paddle switch and mounted it under the left side of the fence rail where it's easy to reach and find. I've had my Delta Contractor's saw since 95, and never regreted the purchase.

[SARGE..g-47]

I would take some 6/4 stock over to the owner of the contractor saw and let him rip it for you. I doubt seriously that the older 1 HP motor on that saw is any less powerful than the newer style motors rated 1 1/2 HP as manufacturers were a little more honest in how they rated HP in those days. They didn't take the motor to peak point where they got the rating just before it melted down.

As stated.. the Bies fence is worth almost as much as the saw price he is asking.

Good luck with whatever decision you make...

[JimD]

I currently use a BT3100. My saw before that was homemade and had a full 1hp motor. I think they have about the same amount of power. I rip as deep as the saw can cut occasionally and they both could do it but only if the blade was clean and sharp and if you cut slowly. I don't think your choices have a significant difference in power. You can change the motor on the contractors saw, however, where the BT3100 you cannot.

I think I paid $300 for my BT3100 brand new. The one you are looking at seems overpriced. On the other hand, it is more accurate than the typical contractors saw. If you have a dial indicator, it would be interesting to see what the runout on the contractors saw is. My bearing on the arbor eventually wore out on my old saw. Most people probably do not use a saw enough to do this, however. My BT3100 has the extension table setup so it has more than 50 inches of rip capacity. You need to build a custom base to get the most out of the BT3100 but if you do, it will do the work of a cabinet saw. It is a bit underpowered but the times that shows up are limited and you can give it a good blade and it will do anything the bigger saws will do if you are a bit patient.

I would probably try to talk the owner of the BT3100 down to $200-$250 and if he won't budge, buy the contractors saw. The belt is almost nothing. You can use an automotive belt of the right diameter or get one of the multipiece belts. Wearing out the belt indicates the saw has seen significant use, however, so it would be good to check the bearings. Another way to check them is to stop mid-cut and measure the kerf. When the bearings wear out, the kerf opens up noticably. Replacing bearings or the arbor is not out of the question but I would want to understand the cost before I purchased the saw.

Jim

[Charlie]

On the other hand, it is more accurate than the typical contractors saw. You need to build a custom base to get the most out of the BT3100 but if you do, it will do the work of a cabinet saw.
You can use an automotive belt of the right diameter or get one of the multipiece belts. Replacing bearings or the arbor is not out of the question but I would want to understand the cost before I purchased the saw.

Jim

The BT is more accurate ? it will do the work of a cabinet saw ? Seems like a couple of pretty bold statements. You cannot use an automotive belt on an electric motor pulley, the bevel on the belt is different. Bearings for the arbor on the Contractor's saw are fairly inexpensive and easy to find if you need them. I'm guessing that if the guy spent the money on a Forrest blade that the bearings are in pretty good shape, but never hurts to ask if they have been replaced or checked, far from a deal breaker.

[Alex Franke]

It still seems like rockwell has a lot of unknowns to me.

You might also check to see if the BT is still under warranty...

[Charlie]

It still seems like rockwell has a lot of unknowns to me.

Minor unknowns considering that if well maintained, the Contractor's saw will out live you and your kids. Plus it has a fence that is found in alot of cabinet shops. The cast iron top, and inner works give it more weight, which dampens vibration. They are two totally different classes of table saws. The BT I would class as being more of a portable jobsite saw, light in weight.

[LCHIEN]

$300 for a BT3100 w/access kit sounds high. At the end of its production it was $300 new in the box and the accessory kit, listed for $100 but was often discounted or thrown in during earlier promos. Slightly used but used nonetheless you should be able to get a better deal. It would probably not be in any kind of warranty as its been out of US production for over a year. I'd judge $200 to 250 as a good deal for a saw that can be very nice for someone looking for an accurate saw and using it on a hobby basis (and not a tool abuser).

A contractor saw is heavier duty but this one sounds real old. Not necessarily more accurate. a lot more variables. 1 HP motor? worn out belts (what does that say?). Motor hangs out the back, dust collection?

[cabinetman]

The Biesemeyer fence alone is worth the asking price of the Rockwell Contractor's saw. It would be interesting to see a picture of it. I'm guessing that it has cast iron wings on it and the crows foot stand. A Fenner Drives PowerTwist link belt ( for about $30 I'm guessing ) would be far better then the stock belt. The saw should have a 1 1/2 hp motor on it, but even if you buy a new motor for it you'd still have a pretty good deal on a saw that will easily outlast and out perform a BT, plus has a premium fence, and was American made. I also recommend pulling the tiny toggle power switch and electrical box out of the inside of the saw cabinet for two reasons. One, the electrical box in it's stock location fills up with dust. Two, the tiny toggle power switch is hard to find during sawing operations. I replaced mine with a large paddle switch and mounted it under the left side of the fence rail where it's easy to reach and find. I've had my Delta Contractor's saw since 95, and never regreted the purchase.

I agree with this take. Having a Dayton motor, it's a replacement. As for pulleys/belts, they can be changed for accommodation. I would opt for the Rockwell. I've had that saw and when set up properly will cut all day long. Most of the dust comes straight down. A custom cabinet with either a deep pull out drawer (if you have no DC), or a shroud with a DC output works pretty good.
.

[Charlie]

A contractor saw is heavier duty but this one sounds real old. Not necessarily more accurate. a lot more variables. 1 HP motor? worn out belts (what does that say?). Motor hangs out the back, dust collection?

Old is actually a good thing, it beats alot of the import crap thats out there now. As far as accuracy, I don't see how you can even think the BT is close. Hard saying what happened to the original motor, the belt he described as needing to be replaced, no mention of it being wore out, it could just be cracked from age. Motor hangs out the back ? why is that a big deal and outfeed tables aren't ? When the saw is not in use, the motor can be easily disconnected for storage.

[LCHIEN]

A contractor saw is heavier duty but this one sounds real old. Not necessarily more accurate. a lot more variables. 1 HP motor? worn out belts (what does that say?). Motor hangs out the back, dust collection?

Old is actually a good thing, it beats alot of the import crap thats out there now. As far as accuracy, I don't see how you can even think the BT is close. Hard saying what happened to the original motor, the belt he described as needing to be replaced, no mention of it being wore out, it could just be cracked from age. Motor hangs out the back ? why is that a big deal and outfeed tables aren't ? When the saw is not in use, the motor can be easily disconnected for storage. Dust collection ? Here is your answer. http://sites.google.com/site/woodchuck1957/home

I can make rips and crosscuts all day long at better than .010" (better than 1/64th") of intended size often within about .005", perfectly crosscut with no wander, dead square. I don't think a heavily used old contractor saw with possibly worn arbor and worn miter bar and slot can do that without rehab. I'll stand by my accuracy statement.

Actually the whole BT thing will be ready to go pretty much but the old contractor saw may need a lot of rehab. or, it may not. It can cut well, I'm sure when properly restored.

My point is a well used saw can be a crapshoot.

My other points about the motor hanging out the back is storage room and footprint. and about the dust collection, the BT is somewhat equipped for it with its dust chute, the contractor saw requires more work, again.