Joining 2 x12 forming a frame for archery target

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  • jon_ramp
    Established Member
    • Feb 2007
    • 120
    • western Chicago burb
    • Craftsman 21829

    Joining 2 x12 forming a frame for archery target

    I am building an archery target that will be made of 2 x12 to form a frame similar to a raised planting bed but will stand on end. The front and back will be faced with a fabric similar to nylon burlap. It will be stuffed with recycled clothing, blankets, sheets and other fabric. This target will remain outdoors and I have not had good luck with projects glued with Titebond III holding up outdoors in the past. Want your suggestioins on how to join the corners. Simple butt joint held with screws, or a 1.5 x 1/4 rabbet with screws. Thinking the rabbets would help hold it square over time. Other ideas?

    Here is a link to the target, I did not order from the manufacturer of the skin and do not have the build directions. Mine will also be 3' square without the legs vs 4' with legs as in the video. https://youtu.be/sWWBq4DwcOw
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 20914
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    Its not going to be under a lot of stress, I'd just use butt joints with at least four 3-1/2" deck screws on each joint. Then I'd put a diagonal brace on the back for each corner using a 1x4 about 8-12 inches to prevent racking.

    Glue is optional but glue is not ideal for end grain. Its best in long grain to long grain joints.

    I assume if its going to be outdoors continuously you will paint it. And that the nylon skin will keep rain from soaking your stuffing? Otherwise its going to get really heavy.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment

    • capncarl
      Veteran Member
      • Jan 2007
      • 3564
      • Leesburg Georgia USA
      • SawStop CTS

      #3
      You didn’t mention if the target is going to have a back on it? A back will sturdy up the frame a lot and reduce the stress on the 4 corner joints. You could also put a 2x4 or 4x4 block in each corner for additional bite for screws. When I was archery hunting I used a single sheet of .035 conveyor belting for a target stop, hung loose like on a close line. Surprisingly it would stop a target tip arrow.

      Comment


      • LCHIEN
        LCHIEN commented
        Editing a comment
        The video he linked had no back.
    • dbhost
      Slow and steady
      • Apr 2008
      • 9209
      • League City, Texas
      • Ryobi BT3100

      #4
      If you look at the build video, the original builder used, well toenailed dowels, or doewls drilled and glued / hammered in at an angle so as to not expose the glue to nothing but end grain. Think about wood fibers on a tree like long straws drawing moisture all the way up the tree, but not laterally. It does the same thing when dead and as lumber to glue... It drinks it up and you end up with no acual glue exposure.

      Toeing in or drilling the holes for the dowels at an angle means you are exposing long grain to long grain, ish... It's far from perfect, but better than not.

      For the application, I would probably seriously consider on the inside of hte corners glue blocks so you have long grain to long grain and then punn the butt joint together with some beefy screws.
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      Comment

      • jon_ramp
        Established Member
        • Feb 2007
        • 120
        • western Chicago burb
        • Craftsman 21829

        #5
        The target is faced with the same nylon burlap like material front and back. I can then turn it around when one side starts to wear excessively. There will be a hole in the top approx 4" x 8" to put in the stuffing. For field and taget points only, no broadheads. The fabric I got from my brother and I believe it originally had bulk seed corn, soybeans or some type of fertilizer in it previously. I have used it to re-wrap existing store bought targets and it holds up longer than their original covering. I am liking the idea of 4x4 blocks glued on the inside and then screwed from the outside. How well does glue adhere to pressure treated lumber? Do the 4x4 blocks need to be un-treated?

        Comment

        • LCHIEN
          Internet Fact Checker
          • Dec 2002
          • 20914
          • Katy, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 vintage 1999

          #6
          If you don't want internal bracing that could be hit by arrows, then I think all you need to make it strong is some 2x4 diagonal braces for the lower horizontal bar below the target area. Double Mitered for 45 degrees, you can put one or even two per corner with a 3" lag screw through the vertical and horizontal members or you can countersink some holes in the mitered part of the brace.
          8-12 inches long will make it really stiff.

          Click image for larger version

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          Last edited by LCHIEN; 04-15-2022, 05:45 PM.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

          Comment

          • capncarl
            Veteran Member
            • Jan 2007
            • 3564
            • Leesburg Georgia USA
            • SawStop CTS

            #7
            I’m not a big fan of the angle brackets sold at the big box stores, but there is on that wraps around a corner and secures a 90 , and there is flat 90 on the back side, think a framing square, Those 2 type brackets would stiffen it up a lot.

            Comment

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