Miter fence end caps

**dbhost** · 03-14-2022, 07:48 PM

You know.... this is a common enough issue. I know I saw someone that made up replacement rail ends for both the BT3000 and BT3100, I'm not advenurous enough yet, but I might just try to make my own. Mine are bobbed off as well... It just hasn't been important enough to worry about yet.

Just wondering, did you "Paint The Red Line" on your saw yet? The recess of the ribs immediately in line with your blade should be painted, or in the case of mine, sharpied with red sharpie or paint. That is a sure indicator of the danger path... And if you pay attention to that you might end up with your miter fence tips not unintentionally shortened....

**LCHIEN** · 03-14-2022, 08:06 PM

I have the Rod Kirby miter fence end caps he willed me after his famous Australian BT3 passed on. (to someone else, not away).

Easy to make your own as he did. He just added a couple of threaded holes to the fence..

Originals are out of production now. 3D printing is a possible solution if they have to look like the originals. I always disliked the fact that the originals were a hair out of alignment with the face of the extrusion, which is why I like Rods so much.

You can see also that I painted the red line... marking the groove where anything on the miter fence is "in the line of fire".

**LCHIEN** · 03-14-2022, 09:27 PM

Here's a third suggestion for making some miter fence ends.
The T-slots in the top of the fence, the bottom and the back side are all a hair over 1 inch wide and a hair over 1/8th in thick.
You can pick up some 1" x 1/8" flat bar aluminum extrusion and cut about 2-3 inches pieces that will slip into the back T-slot or if you prefer the top or bottom.

Drill and thread a small set screw or even a machine screw into the bar to secure the bar to the fence. Leaving an inch or so extending out.
You just then need to secure a block of wood, beveled if you want, to the space between the end of the fence and in front of the bar.
I measured 1.9 something inches high and 1.5 something inches wide.
You can even laminate some stuff together if you don't have any scraps that wide.
This involve cutting no holes in your fence if you are squeamish about that.

this is not the miter fence but it shows how the flat bar fits into the rail system and is set with a set screw.

Lowes has 1/8" x 1 " x 3 ft. aluminum bar:

Shop Hillman
Hillman 1-in x 3-ft Interior/Exterior Mill Finished Aluminum Solid
Item #27814Model #11292
$7.75
^$7^{.75

Home Depot, too}
Everbilt 1 in. x 48 in. Aluminum Flat Bar with 1/8 in. Thick

Internet #204274000

Model #801927

Store SKU #482552

Store SO SKU #1000240305

$10.98

And Amazon has 6 piece 14" long for $18.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ace hardware
Boltmaster 0.125 in. T X 1 in. W X 4 ft. L Weldable Aluminum Flat Bar 1 pk
Item #5117981| Mfr #11293
$12.99

**ehubbell** · 05-12-2022, 02:02 PM

I designed and 3d printed some for my saw. If you know someone with a 3d printer, they should be able to make some for you. I posted my design on Printables - Not sure if I can post a link or not, so here goes: https://www.printables.com/model/203...iter-end-block

Anyone who has a 3d printer should know what to do based on that link. Each block takes about 2 hours to print and uses less than a dollar worth of PLA.

It took a few iterations to get the sizing right, but I'm really happy with mine. So happy that I threw my old chipped ones out. Printed in safety orange. For safety. Plus a little cap to make up for the overhangs that would be a pain to 3d print.

~Ed

**ehubbell** · 05-14-2022, 08:12 AM

I thought about selling them on ebay, but there's already someone doing it - https://www.ebay.com/itm/30442216718...oAAOSwQUNiRjYi - I have no desire to compete with $10 per shipment.

**capncarl** · 05-14-2022, 01:27 PM

I mentioned on another post that our local public library has a technology dept? and will print items such as this for a nominal fee. It would be worth a visit to see if your local library offers the same.

**dbhost** · 05-30-2022, 11:30 AM

Folks, my cheap basic 3D printer should be here tomorrow. A Voxelab Aquila, as basic as they get but if the rumors are true, a good way to get my toes wet trying out 3D printing.

I will be printing out a set of miter fence ends for my BT3100 as a break in for the printer, and I will design and print some mounts for my home security system keypads as I bought them used and the mounts were missing.

I think I will also look for better color / more sedate color filament and desgn / print out some floral vases for my in laws mausoleum vault. The original one has failed in the elements and needs to be replaced...

Any other ideas what can be done within 220mm x 220mm x 250mm ?

**dbhost** · 06-12-2022, 12:58 PM

Originally posted by ehubbell

I designed and 3d printed some for my saw. If you know someone with a 3d printer, they should be able to make some for you. I posted my design on Printables - Not sure if I can post a link or not, so here goes: https://www.printables.com/model/203...iter-end-block

Anyone who has a 3d printer should know what to do based on that link. Each block takes about 2 hours to print and uses less than a dollar worth of PLA.

It took a few iterations to get the sizing right, but I'm really happy with mine. So happy that I threw my old chipped ones out. Printed in safety orange. For safety. Plus a little cap to make up for the overhangs that would be a pain to 3d print.

~Ed

For those seeking to 3D print this design, I have done mine without hte upper tab pieces as I still need to print those (the left and right specific pieces.

Simply put those pieces did not print out properly. Nor did my first block although it was salvageable. The iddue is too long of a span to be printed without supports. So heads up, IF you are going to print these out, do it with supports!

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Miter fence end caps

Miter fence end caps

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