Used Saw Questions

[Whiskeydrunk17]

Took me a while to find you guys. But, I'm thankful I did. Yesterday I picked up a 22811 at a garage sale for $50. Was told the fence was broke and was missing some parts. They really didn't know, since they got it from their deceased parent. The saw turned on and I didn't appear like the fence was broke at all. The handle was broke and the opposite side wasn't attached properly, which I figured out when I got home. There is some damage on the fence where it looks like the blade hit it.

I was wondering if there's anything I should do prior to cutting on this? Seems like everything is square, blade to rip fence. I plan on giving it a nice cleaning as well.

It is missing the miter gauge and assembly. The fence locking handle ( I just used a wrench to loosen and tighten it ). Wrenches for blade changes, and router mounting assembly.

Any advice on parts, maintenance, and operation would be much appreciated. I have been going through the FAQ and some great info is in there.

Thanks in advance.

[LCHIEN]

Welcome to the "club"

I have a BT3 Saw FAQ (Freq asked Questions) that has a lot of good info... the FAQ is linked in my signature line at the bottom of this reply. You should get it. (click the link to download).

If you keep your eyes open you can buy used entire miter fence assemblies on eBay, probably cost you $50-100 bucks these days but its the thing to have.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12646256500...B2WN9NTK54V&ha sh=item1d71c19a8d:g:7B8AAOSwjCNmNDS7&itmprp=enc%3A AQAJAAAAwLM5yYA%2BI5%2BaQX%2BMjNWj2gbt1ppK4Z9ZhoR% 2FZ8d1RbXRFhaFBFyXhTubQH7oDciq4EbUvLSWN7gLfDN%2B%2 FHOB5dBW80HTk%2FBko9mJ5TWidFrZWhDmx%2BmCuebGY%2BpC sNrU4PknyioH1rcMHYOJhkFXboDnjiING83CxTXsukV5xKJnQy GJyjso87cX5V713DDS1RLxhkLDpBkMQp6JHqQnvOBTMTDdJ1fa hINGyFuOR7pmZfLQKsvtixC6DVOXFHwnbQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3AB k9SR4bF58nqYw

These 2 missing the holder bracket and knob

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126455347041?itmmeta=01HXA9SW8F6BMH6A1PW3F2HFX6&ha sh=item1d71537761:gLoAAOSwFQdmLsBi&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4I%2BQIufNihd Rgt5%2FuEZ%2FnUFr%2FWPAWFQ%2Fnil%2FPCDvxbhxTwPoZSn vP04YMZpYxyHKWmC0j9v08wuhk5VbYlWzo%2FZPc5sqnlEPOx6 2y8Kzvpyd5VpNIFPc6ROzqy%2BNdC5z84HOE%2BdF0SL8VMhka seFVE6KTNHrmqQboqwtDnLopiamhpDcPargOvwBQxg0HPVgSJk 600vOBIvrgwcwt0NQn02jWslgIUVkYuONtWSAdmBxGnTYkFVLb 9na54%2FmpXcr843cbeakuuYroDeLsBaTgWvi3oOjKxxgRgYHp o5XN2Th%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4bF58nqYw

https://www.ebay.com/itm/13502693190...M%26aid%3D1110 006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D26530 4%26meid%3D52cab0b9dd43472bab3c35f16173c971%26pid% 3D101875%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D126462565005%26 itm%3D135026931908%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332 490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda 85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRan kerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3EmbeddedAuctionsCPCAutoWi thCassiniEmbRecallManual%26brand%3DRyobi&_trksid=p 2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A1350269319085 2cab0b9dd43472bab3c35f16173c971%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABkP 9d%252BMZSXlztIfYFu3kI%252B7ft0VcQix7rTrUVdiJwc2up zwLfM%252B2UEqu0ZqdXqu2qWe6up6s9MSEY%252BWikIwEh4x LkizL%252BG%252Fyhg6cdW4xfkbb75erVQBYYISNxGN1au%25 2BE0eJ778JYYSAyLJRupNiZky3B2UHpMsaEp7JRgW9fuueOszP lG9eCPE4mSzJx4EejjZE0v1xx3s4HgKujjhEB3s6m4nNsMZWaD Zw%252BfR5iVZZ9fNMbspAUe7QyKQBvziVMP875Z%252Blbt0s zaRLndHFL1RAcqYfe%252BpIjDIPBldx9eQpJ9uxiZS7PZ1xAl 3EztM0IXq2rmkuG78wHxe0qI1lvy24r9KP0OiVmEdwSEXVr2na qllXSXM5Ggehz0o8moiu4nRJFvrl1tWzb2zSPYwb4WadID54vA 4uIPiXFS%252Bvu5%252BxhSeNpI82p93NEveafm%252BFXa4A kNPnOyyYV1nFxM%252BLf58ESIMISfJsoAfNA54eoZ5gaN5uzJ s7TDJsOEytk%252FEsj3qc8DFzlN00iu0OzWq6evew0%253D%7 Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01HXA9T73N C26JMJK2TKJ6V4JF

People have made replacement brackets from wood- not that hard. see collage of photos farther down. My wood one (top) and OEM one, bottom:

Make sure it has the fence extrusion, the orange angle pointer indicator, the black pivot on the bottom and fence holder bracket. The bolt that goes through the slot in the SMT, the holder is just a 5/16-18 hex head bolt and the knob is an off the shelf female open though star knob most hardware stores will have. The plastic end caps are not necessary.

[Whiskeydrunk17]

I appreciate it, I've been reading it. Tons of great info there. Thanks a ton, the DIY ones look fantastic.

Do you know if any DIY solutions for the fence locking handle?

Thanks!

[d_meister]

I appreciate it, I've been reading it. Tons of great info there. Thanks a ton, the DIY ones look fantastic.

Do you know if any DIY solutions for the fence locking handle?

Thanks!

Everything on the saw is standard SAE thread, so a bolt with a home made handle will do just fine. The handle doesn't do any extra tricks, just turns the eccentric clamper.

[dbhost]

If you have a 3D printer, or are willing to learn to use one at your local library maker space if you have one, let me know. I have the print files for the miter fence ends. I made mine with safety orange filament and they look and work great!

[LCHIEN]

I appreciate it, I've been reading it. Tons of great info there. Thanks a ton, the DIY ones look fantastic.

Do you know if any DIY solutions for the fence locking handle?

Thanks!

Yes, that should be real easy, I just went and checked and measured.

The thread in the fence cam lock is 1/2-13 threaded as per my nut and thread gauge. standard SAE. About 1 inch of it sticks out.
The handle itself is 1-1/2" Diameter and 4 inches long. The end is roughly hemispherical but a straight cut off dowel should work just fine.
Accordingly I would go to the hardware store and buy a length of hex head 1/2-13 bolt about 2 inches long. Hacksaw off the head leaving about 2 inches of thread and maybe some shank (if not fully threaded.)
Drill a 1/2" diameter hole centered in one end of the dowel piece about 1 inch deep.
Fasten, epoxy or other wise glue the cut end of the bolt into the hole. Alternately if you have all-thread you can tap and thread the end of the dowel. There won't be much rotation or tensile force on it. And you can always drill the side of the dowel through the 1/2 shank and pin it if needed to keep it from rotating.
If you are really seeking fancy, you can round over or chamfer the open end of the dowel handle for appearance, and paint it black. You can coat it with some rubberization material, but its not necessary.
The exposed thread end can just be turned into the female hole in the cam lock of the rip fence.... just turn it until it bottoms snugly.

If you are in a real hurry you buy a hex head bolt 1/2-13 x 5 inch long. and use it like that until you make one. In fact, an alternative you can take a 1-1/2" diameter x 4" dowel, drill a 1/2" hole through the center. Then put the bolt thru it, and put a 1/2-13 nut on the opposite end and tighten to capture the dowel. Don't have to hacksaw a bolt. But you do need to drill a nice straight hole through a 4" dowel... job for a drill press if you have one. Want to be fancy, counter sink both ends to hide the nut and bolt head a little.

Basically you need something like this ( a handle for something else, but all the same elements.)

[Whiskeydrunk17]

That's wonderful information. I will definitely be doing that today as I get it cleaned up.

Looks like after that, I need to find some blade wrenches. Looks like I can get a set that works around $25.

Thank you all so much for the great information.

[LCHIEN]

That's wonderful information. I will definitely be doing that today as I get it cleaned up.

Looks like after that, I need to find some blade wrenches. Looks like I can get a set that works around $25.

Thank you all so much for the great information.

FOr the blade wrenches, you really need the back end of either one the BT3000 supplied wrenches - to lock the arbor while you use a hex wrench to turn the arbor nut. The arbor nut is a 3/4" SAE wrench, any box end or combination wrench works, I like the ones with a slight offset to keep your fingers away from the blade tips. The second wrench is 1/2" SAE hex wrench, again any box end or combination wrench will work to loosen the nuts that hold the blade guard/riving knife.
However the arbor lock portion is the hard one to duplicate. I don't know what fits or works for that job other than the OEM wrenches.


I only use my original wrenches for the arbor lock. I keep a pair of combination wrenches from the Pawn shop ($1-2 each) in the right size hanging from my saw, handy. More comfortable and a little longer lever.

Don't forget the arbor nut and arbor are left hand thread (it causes the nut to tighten when the blade turns rather than get looser). That gets everyone sooner or later. Makes no difference in the wrench, just which way you turn them.

https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...ement-wrenches

[LCHIEN]

Actually, I'm getting an inspiration for a arbor lock wrench.
Let me mull it over.

[dbhost]

If you can't find an entire miter fence, perhaps you could source up the extrusion? if so drop me a PM, I may be able to help you out with some 3D prints of the plastic pieces...

[LCHIEN]

One last observation for the rip fence locking handle, the threaded end hanging out is exactly one inch long and only half of it is threaded and only about a 1/4" actually engaged the cam in the rip fence.