Rip blade recommendation

[Carpenter96]

We regularly get a tooth or two redone (welded) on our blades when we get them resharpened. This works out much cheaper than buying new blades.

Regards Bob

[LCHIEN]

I bought a cmt because I could get it locally when I last needed a rip blade. It is 24 tooth and thin cut. It works surprisingly well. But my full width Freud works fine on the BT3100 too. When clean and sharp both will cut to full depth.

I use a mail order sharpening service sometimes. I can't remember the name right now but they also make blades.

Jim

maybe Forrest?

[JimD]

Ridge

http://ridgecarbidetool.com/sharpening/

[Cochese]

Ridge

http://ridgecarbidetool.com/sharpening/

At those prices, the Freud and the Irwin rips are almost disposable, at least if you've chipped a tooth. Similar pricing at Highland.

[dbhost]

At those prices, the Freud and the Irwin rips are almost disposable, at least if you've chipped a tooth. Similar pricing at Highland.

Especially when you factor in shipping...

[jabe]

blades

Buy the best U can afford. I use Tenryu, leitz, and Forrest. The bad thing about Forrest blades is rust, Leitz get some rust but my Tenryu blades never rust here in the Tropics. All of them work well when sharp & clean but my favorite is the Tenryu, they just use better steel for the body & good carbide for the teeths. I used to have a 12 T rip Tenryu blade, great blade if U can find it, replaced it with a Tenryu 24 T Rip blade. I don't buy Forrest blades anymore due to rusting, it's a good blade if your shop is enclosed.

[capncarl]

AT this time I will chime in and make the statement about my HF saw blade sharpener, and everyone will say phoo-phoo and the thread will die, Saw blades must be sharpened by professionals. I've used my $69 sharpener for better than 3 years on my Freud, Craftsman and what ever 10 inch blades and have never been disapointed. By rotating them out before they get hopeless dull and installing a re-sharpened blade all is well. I have 3 blades to sharpen for friends this weekend, one that cut concrete board. This will take about 15 minutes and save the cost of new blades and reduce my sharpener cost per blade to about $.05. I figure that the savings on blade sharpening could easily pay for my Powermatic saw in a few years.
capncarl

[LinuxRandal]

AT this time I will chime in and make the statement about my HF saw blade sharpener, and everyone will say phoo-phoo and the thread will die, Saw blades must be sharpened by professionals. I've used my $69 sharpener for better than 3 years on my Freud, Craftsman and what ever 10 inch blades and have never been disapointed. By rotating them out before they get hopeless dull and installing a re-sharpened blade all is well. I have 3 blades to sharpen for friends this weekend, one that cut concrete board. This will take about 15 minutes and save the cost of new blades and reduce my sharpener cost per blade to about $.05. I figure that the savings on blade sharpening could easily pay for my Powermatic saw in a few years.
capncarl

Your not the first person that told me they like it, or that the trick was not letting them go to far. I remember them saying past a certain point, professional sharpening was the only way to go (and this including adding missing teeth).
But I never thought to ask, so I am asking now, what grind(s) have you used this with? I wonder if it works better with some grinds, and if you could even sharpen some of the custom ground blades, like Forrest (and others) do?

Thanks

[capncarl]

When I first got the HF sharpener and promptly replaced the blade holder with something sturdier I attempted to measure each blade angle and duplicate it. There is no simple way to duplicate factory given angles on this device using the machines setting markings. The angles on the blades were extremely hard to measure angles on, being such small pieces, even with my machinist tools. That said, after attaching the saw blade in the holder I feel like I was able to duplicate the angles on the sharpners diamond blade to match the existing grind. The sharpener is simply a sliding miter saw (without the chop feature) It has a saw blade stop that registers each carbide in the same location for the sharpener to cut. What I saw there suprised me as the sharpener cut more on one carbide than others. After checking my set up I did a test by setting the blade up in my lathe, (power off), with a real blade stop and found that the carbides in fact were not all perfectly spaced or cut from the re-grind service. Maybe this was an isolated case from my ex-sharpener. After that test I now only touch up the face of each carbide with the sharpener. I know that the grind finish that I am putting on the carbides is coarser than factory or re-grind services, cuts very well and holds and edge a satisfactory length of time.
capncarl

[Cochese]

Well, they arrived today.



Haven't had a chance to try the rip blade, but here you can see both the teeth and the gullets are a pretty good deal larger. Should help with the burning I've been getting on some hardwood.



I did get a chance to throw the 96T in the miter saw and give it a go. I cut some pine that I had lying around and was too long. After I cut it I thought I wasted money, as the Hitachi 60T blade does a **** fine job for a stocker. The end grain felt pretty good.

Then I used the 96T Irwin, and I felt comfortable with my purchase. Very smooth finish on the end grain. Less tearout. You can even see it with this picture.



I don't know when I'll have results for the rip blade. It's turning cold right now and I don't have anything scheduled to cut.