Small Padauk Platter

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  • atgcpaul
    Veteran Member
    • Aug 2003
    • 4055
    • Maryland
    • Grizzly 1023SLX

    #16
    Got another question. I've seen green wood turners let their blanks sit for months to continue drying out. This blank was dry already so you can just turn it to final shape in one shot and not worry about acclimation?

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    • LCHIEN
      Internet Fact Checker
      • Dec 2002
      • 20920
      • Katy, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 vintage 1999

      #17
      Very nicely done You tube instructional video, Bill.
      Was that the first one?
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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      • Bill in Buena Park
        Veteran Member
        • Nov 2007
        • 1865
        • Buena Park, CA
        • CM 21829

        #18
        Paul, to directly answer your question about my dry blank for the platter - yes, it was dry enough turn in one shot. Even so, there are stresses in wood that cause movement to be considered in the turning (same reason we use splitters and riving knives on the tablesaw). For example, on the rim of the platter, I had a tiny amount of movement where it is thinnest - this is why I subscribe to turning and finishing "as you go" from the edges in, without going back to the edges once done, as opposed to inside out; a veteran turner (don't recall who) demonstrated how if the inside material is removed and the edges "move" and are no longer perfectly flat (could even be slight, not enough for the eye to see), the tool will "skip" between the high and low spots. This is especially critical on "winged" forms. So with bowl and platter forms, I do shaping and finishing cuts on the edges progressively inward, about half way into the vessel, before removing the bulk of the interior. For sanding, I slow the lathe enough that my sanding pad with riding up and down on low/high spots, without skipping.

        For the question about green wood, it can be (1) sealed and left to dry before turning, (2) "rough" turned partially when green then sealed and left to dry before finishing, or (3) turned thin to final form. Each one requires a little different handling to achieve desired results (like stability or warping), and reduce undesirables (like splitting and cracking). My personal preference is to let the wood dry before turning.
        Bill in Buena Park

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        • Bill in Buena Park
          Veteran Member
          • Nov 2007
          • 1865
          • Buena Park, CA
          • CM 21829

          #19
          Thanks Loring - yes, video 02 was the first project video, and hope to have videos up for a bowl and a candle holder soon.
          Bill in Buena Park

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          • Black wallnut
            cycling to health
            • Jan 2003
            • 4715
            • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
            • BT3k 1999

            #20
            That is beautiful Bill!
            Donate to my Tour de Cure


            marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

            Head servant of the forum

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