Broken handle - any ideas?
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nicer20 how is the handle replacement going? Obviously you could buy your friend a replacement for the tool you broke, or at least contribute to its replacement, however I think a fix of the existing tool keeping it on the road as it were is a much nicer solution.Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.Comment
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nicer20 how is the handle replacement going? Obviously you could buy your friend a replacement for the tool you broke, or at least contribute to its replacement, however I think a fix of the existing tool keeping it on the road as it were is a much nicer solution.
Will post how it goes.
Thanks
NGComment
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Get a good price bargaining it down cause it's missing the handle and you can't get them anymore.
Then make two handles. It is always easy to make two when you make one. You already have the dowel and the all thread and don't need to get more for a second set. The drilling setup only needs to be done once. And you've done all the research and thinking and planning.
Then you have a nice rescued saw for cheap and your friend's saw is fixed.
Btw get two M10 nuts to lock together to use when driving the all thread in.Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-12-2022, 05:40 PM.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions👍 1Comment
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Get a good price bargaining it down cause it's missing the handle and you can't get them anymore.
Then make two handles. It is always easy to make two when you make one. You already have the dowel and the all thread and don't need to get more for a second set. The drilling setup only needs to be done once. And you've done all the research and thinking and planning.
Then you have a nice rescued saw for cheap and your friend's saw is fixed.
Btw get two M10 nuts to lock together to use when driving the all thread in.
OK sure I will get two M10 nuts to drive the threaded rod - good point. I am planning to drill the dowel with a 3/8" drill bit and then drive the M10 rod. My understanding is 3/8" = 9.525 mm. I believe this will give enough bite into the dowel but at the same time avoid cracking it. Please correct me if I am wrong. TIA.
Back to the point of getting a miter saw, I am dreaming of getting a sliding miter saw instead of a simple one. Of course, the table saw is there but I feel the miter saw is much more convenient for quick cuts and longer stock compared to setting up the table saw. Unless you guys think it is a bad idea.
Thanks again,
NGLast edited by nicer20; 05-13-2022, 12:05 AM.Comment
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Here's my opinion.
Sliding miter saws tend to be deep - they need a track to run the blade and motor back and forth So it may impact how far this thing sticks out from the wall.
My consideration was between a 10"slider and a 12" dual bevel compound. I opted for a dual bevel 12" Hitachi, now MetaboHPT. C12FDH
It cuts 4x4 and 2x4 on edge where my 10" could not cut the 4x4 all the way through and barely did 1x6. I was also afraid that the sliding system could have play and made inaccurate cuts.
I use the miter saw a lot.... I classify cuts as- moving saw/fixed wood (Miter saw)
- fixed saw/moving wood (Table saw)
Two is good when you have shorter pieces and sheet goods and long rips.
Two is also good for partial though cuts. for grooving and dadoes.
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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If you use your Drill press to center the hole in the dowel leave it clamped in place and remove the drill bit. remove the belt from the DP, use a grinder or belt/disc sander or something to put a small bevel on the front of the threaded rod (cut to length)
Put the rod into the DP to align it perfectly with the hole so it goes in straight. Use one hand to lower the quill to meet the hole while turning the chuck by hand to start the thread once you get 2-3-4 threads started you can take it out of the chuck and put the dowel in a vise and use the two nuts (lock them together on the threads with two wrenches) and a ratchet and socket to drive it in.
If you start the rod crooked it gets much harder to drive it in as it goes deeper. It will get harder as you engage more threads but crooked = even harder still as it will bind. And it will look like heck.
When you roll the dowel + rod on a table top you can readily tell how perfectly centered and straight it is.
Last bit of advice: Drill a hole in a scrap 2x4 the same size as your dowel then split it with your table saw through the middle of the hole. Use this for clamping the dowel w/o damaging it both while drilling the center hole and when driving the rod in with the ratchet. This will increase the holding contact and not put vise pressure on just two sides of the dowel but rather most of the circumference. It will prevent marring and denting the handle!!! DAMHIKT!! And it will probably keep the dowel upright as you work on it.
Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-13-2022, 02:43 AM.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions👍 1Comment
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Nice directions and write up Lchien! I noticed that my Hitachi handle was not true but didn’t appear to be bent or damaged. I never noticed it before. Knowing this I wouldn’t be too concerned to making mine perfectly concentric. I’d drill the hole like you described but I’d tap the hole with a metal cutting tap for the threaded rod. I’d add aprox 2 inches to the required rod length so I could grip it with a vice grip on one end and the other end I’d saw it about 45 degrees. This excess can be sawed off later, and you will have a nice handle to hood on to. Clean up the saw cut threaded rod a bit with a file and it will easily screw into the threaded wood and will cut its own threads when it continues past the cut threads. Threaded rod is less likely to split. Before I cut off the sawed angel I’d remove the rod, put a generous squirt of Titebond in the hole and screw the rod back in. The Titebond will set up overnight and the jam nut will keep it from ever coming out.👍 1Comment
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Oh yeah, one more piece of advise. If hacksawing or cutting the rod, thread a nut onto it first. Then cut the rod, grind or sand any big burrs. then back the nut off over the cut - this will clean up any burrs that prevent you from threading it into the final item.
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions👍 1Comment
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Nice directions and write up Lchien! I noticed that my Hitachi handle was not true but didn’t appear to be bent or damaged. I never noticed it before. Knowing this I wouldn’t be too concerned to making mine perfectly concentric. I’d drill the hole like you described but I’d tap the hole with a metal cutting tap for the threaded rod. I’d add aprox 2 inches to the required rod length so I could grip it with a vice grip on one end and the other end I’d saw it about 45 degrees. This excess can be sawed off later, and you will have a nice handle to hood on to. Clean up the saw cut threaded rod a bit with a file and it will easily screw into the threaded wood and will cut its own threads when it continues past the cut threads. Threaded rod is less likely to split. Before I cut off the sawed angel I’d remove the rod, put a generous squirt of Titebond in the hole and screw the rod back in. The Titebond will set up overnight and the jam nut will keep it from ever coming out.
What say?Comment
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Cutting the threaded rod off at a sharp angle, not necessarily 45 degrees, turns it into a makeshift tap. Like suggested, chamfer the inside of the dowel and you can thread the rod into the wood. It will be a chore though, that is the reason I suggested tapping the hole first.
There is no need to overthink this handle replacement. If you drill the dowel and insert the rod in with plenty of Titebond and put a nut on each end it will tighten up the Hitachi saw forever.
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Yeah the OD of the threaded 10 mm handle of my Hitachi was 9.8 mm which I am sure represents all M10 threads. So you'll have a small amount of interference which would allow you to thread it in.
If you use your Drill press to center the hole in the dowel leave it clamped in place and remove the drill bit. remove the belt from the DP, use a grinder or belt/disc sander or something to put a small bevel on the front of the threaded rod (cut to length)
Put the rod into the DP to align it perfectly with the hole so it goes in straight. Use one hand to lower the quill to meet the hole while turning the chuck by hand to start the thread once you get 2-3-4 threads started you can take it out of the chuck and put the dowel in a vise and use the two nuts (lock them together on the threads with two wrenches) and a ratchet and socket to drive it in.
If you start the rod crooked it gets much harder to drive it in as it goes deeper. It will get harder as you engage more threads but crooked = even harder still as it will bind. And it will look like heck.
When you roll the dowel + rod on a table top you can readily tell how perfectly centered and straight it is.
Last bit of advice: Drill a hole in a scrap 2x4 the same size as your dowel then split it with your table saw through the middle of the hole. Use this for clamping the dowel w/o damaging it both while drilling the center hole and when driving the rod in with the ratchet. This will increase the holding contact and not put vise pressure on just two sides of the dowel but rather most of the circumference. It will prevent marring and denting the handle!!! DAMHIKT!! And it will probably keep the dowel upright as you work on it.Comment
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Reporting Success - Thank you so much LCHIEN , capncarl , dbhost for everything.
(Progress in the photos attached).
Dr. Loring - followed the 2x4 hole trick as you can see in the photos. I had a 1-1/8" hole saw to cut the hole which turns out to be 35 mm. The dowel turned out to be 34 mm. Even splitting the 2x4 block in half didn't clamp it tight enough after squeezing. So I used a 100 grit sandpaper rolled around and that did the trick.
It is so satisfying to fix a broken machine.
More importantly, I learnt a lot out of this project. Especially the technique to drill on a drill press, then disengaging the belts and using the chuck to drive the shaft straight. That's so slick !
I cannot thank you enough for all the guidance, ideas and encouragements.
- Nicer👍 2Comment
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I use a bit same dia. As the dowel.Split in half with table saw. The kerf cuts away enuf material so it clamps tightly. But still makes contact 95% of the circumfrence.
but I think it came out great. Like you said always a pleasure restoring a tool to working.
and great pics documenting it. I keep computer folders on all the stuff I make.Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-15-2022, 12:12 PM.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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