24 Rules for table saw safety

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  • dbhost
    Slow and steady
    • Apr 2008
    • 9209
    • League City, Texas
    • Ryobi BT3100

    24 Rules for table saw safety

    I found this at

    I thought this was important to share here https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entri...aw-safety-tips

    FORMATTING HAS BEEN CHANGED AND NUMBERING ADDED FOR LEGIBILITY.
    Enjoy and discuss.

    Woodcraft Posted on Sep 13, 2021 1:43 PM

    Table saw safety is extremely important to woodworkers because most woodworkers who use power tools use table saws as their main shop tool. Add to that the power of the saws and the dangers it presents, and we quickly understand that lots of personal damage is possible.

    In fact, injuries due to table saws far outnumber injuries by other power tools in your typical workshop. However, the table saw has been in use for many, many years, so most of the problems possible can be easily foreseen and avoided. The double dozen below should help you avoid most, if not all, problems.
    Many of These Safety Tips Apply to ALL Power Tools


    1. Do not wear gloves while operating a table saw.
    There are several reasons, but loss of tactile sense is probably foremost, while a possible loss of gripping power is also close to the top. And some kinds of gloves are loose enough to present an item for the rotating blade to grab.

    2. Keep the floor in front of the saw free of cut-offs and piled up sawdust.
    Tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade can really create problems, but even slipping and banging your head against the cast iron table can bring on a bad injury.

    3. Wear proper eye and hearing protection.
    Eyes need to be protected from damage by projectiles--and no, standard eyeglasses will not do the job. Hearing protection is something every woodworker should start with, and continue. Hearing loss creeps up on you without warning, and often without symptoms, until it's too late to reverse the procedure.

    4. Wear short sleeves,
    leave the ties at the office, and junk your dangling jewelry. Get rid of other loose fitting clothing while operating a table saw. Any of these items might get caught in the blade and yank you into it before you can react.

    5. Stand comfortably,
    with your feet far enough apart for good balance. This is always important, but more so when you're cutting stock long enough to require several steps towards the saw to keep the feed going. Then, you build up momentum and want to be able to stop easily. Wear footwear with non-slip soles.

    6. Avoid any awkward operations.
    If you feel like a gawky fool doing a cut, then don't do the cut in that manner. This helps you avoid losing your balance and possibly falling into the blade or table.

    7. Use a push stick to cut stock that is 6" or less in width.
    A hand that isn't close to a blade isn't going to get cut. Generally, a 6” minimum distance to the blade is considered safe, though some recommend 4”.

    8. Use a stop block when you crosscut short lengths.
    Mount a stop block on the fence--this can be as simple as a clamped on board that stops just before the saw blade, so that cut-off pieces cannot bind between blade and fence.

    9. Position your body so that it is NOT in line with the blade.
    This keeps sawdust feeding back through the slot of the blade out of your face, and much more important, it keeps you out of the line of most kick-backs.

    10. Never reach behind or over the blade unless it has stopped turning.
    Sometimes this looks safe. It almost never truly is. This does not mean you should stop pushing your work before it finishes passing through the blade, itself an invitation to kick back.

    11. Always disconnect the power before changing the blade or performing any other maintenance operation.
    I like to drape the plug over my fence rail so I know in an instant the saw's unplugged…or not.

    12. Make sure that the blade has stopped turning before you adjust the table saw.
    The reasons are obvious. Making adjustments can get hands too close to the blade, and even a slowly spinning blade has a multitude of sharp edges that can do damage.

    13. Always make sure that the blade is turning free before you turn on the power: this is especially helpful after you make changes or adjustments. In other words, spin the blade without power a time or two to make sure there are no scraps or tools touching it.

    14. Keep the tabletop smooth and polished.
    A dirty or rough table requires you to use more force to push the stock through the blade. It may also rust like crazy, further reducing the saw's effectiveness.

    15.Keep the rip fence parallel to the blade so stock doesn't bind on the blade and kick back.
    Some woodworkers prefer to keep the rear of the fence kicked out (away from the blade) by 1/64". I believe parallel is better, but a friend of mine, with more experience than I, keeps the back of his fence kicked out. Both work.

    16. Use zero clearance inserts.
    These reduce the chance of slender cuts dropping into the lower part of the blade and making the round trip to speed by your head. They also reduce splintering in cuts.

    17. Never operate a table saw with the throat insert removed.
    Wood that is fed into a gaping hole can drop down and get caught on the blade. That can't happen if the throat insert is in place.

    18. Do not make free-hand cuts on a table saw.
    Guide the stock through the blade using the rip fence or the miter gauge.

    19. Keep the blade guards, splitters and anti-kickback fingers in place and operating freely.
    Check the action of these items before starting work.

    20. Work should be released only when it is past the blade.
    Releasing work too early is an invitation to kickback as it is possible for the blade to grab the part that has not yet gone by.

    21. SAFETTY STOP (TITLE ADDED BY ME)
    Whenever the stock is lifted or tilted above the surface of the table, the saw is able to shake the stock. If this happens, and you lose your grip, duck down and hit the stop button because losing your grip on the work means it probably is going to come back at you.

    22. Check stock before cutting.
    Look for nails, knots, screws, or stones. Such fun items may become projectiles. If they hit, they smart, and may cause serious injury as well. Also, damage to carbide tipped blades can be major, even if all it does is scare you.

    23. The fence and the miter gauge are not meant to be used together.
    Under some circumstances, you can use both (see above on stop blocks), but the fence then needs an auxiliary fence added. That fence or stop must end just before the saw blade. Don't mess with the fence adjustment when the saw is running. And a general addition, which goes for all tools and all techniques in a wood shop:

    24. if a procedure feels unsafe, it probably is, so don't use it.
    Find another way to do what has to be done.
    Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.
  • leehljp
    Just me
    • Dec 2002
    • 8429
    • Tunica, MS
    • BT3000/3100

    #2
    Number 4 requires a heated shop to be without sleeves!

    Don't rip twisted or bowed lumber.

    I am at the age now that I won't even used a bent or twisted 2x4 as a stud in framing. If it ain't straight, I'm not using it! Someone else can, but I don't.
    Hank Lee

    Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

    Comment

    • dbhost
      Slow and steady
      • Apr 2008
      • 9209
      • League City, Texas
      • Ryobi BT3100

      #3
      On item 13, I rarely if ever do, but I should. Never thought of it, was never taught to...
      On item 14. Excellent point. How do you keep the top slick on a BT or other aluminum topped saw? I periodically clean the top with simple green and paste wax it like it was cast iron, but it's not. Should I do something different to keep it smooth and clear?
      On item 23. I am GUILTY of doing this when doing half laps, I need to rig up a sacrificial stop block that ENDS before the blade and wood meet. The only reason the rip fence is being used at that point is to limit distance. I need some of Loring's favorite fence clamps and soon!

      On Lees statement of twisted / bowed lumber. Particularly construction lumber, I am the guy ticking off the kids at Home Depot ripping through their pallet of wood trying to find 3 or 4 straight pieces. I will spend 2 hours to get 8 perfectly straight 2x4s. Home Depot. Home of the woden Taco Shell...
      Last edited by dbhost; 04-05-2022, 02:22 PM.
      Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

      Comment


      • Jim Frye
        Jim Frye commented
        Editing a comment
        About once a year, I wax the aluminum tables on my tools. No marks on the wood.
    • capncarl
      Veteran Member
      • Jan 2007
      • 3564
      • Leesburg Georgia USA
      • SawStop CTS

      #4
      Number 2 gives me the most problems. The floor in front of the table saw has the most clear space. This clear space is where I do most of the carving and finishing on my Tiny Trees , Tiny Tables and Tiny Mushrooms, and the paste was I use makes the floor like a skating rink! I usually scrub the floor with a hand full of planer shavings and follow with a hand scrubbing with Awsome degreaser. The 15 year old epoxy floor coating still get slick when the fine dust from the table saw hits it so I have to keep it swept clean and always be aware of this condition.
      Last edited by capncarl; 04-05-2022, 04:43 PM.

      Comment


      • dbhost

        dbhost
        commented
        Editing a comment
        Something we need to check on. I noticed it recently. Did anyone experience this before the recent upgrade?

      • twistsol
        twistsol commented
        Editing a comment
        vBulletin implemented hash tags in this release. I’d bet dollars to donuts it’s related to that.

      • twistsol
        twistsol commented
        Editing a comment
        This appears to be something hard coded in the software. "#1" will give a link to the site's home page and "#2" will give a link to the forum home. In our case, both are the same location. The shortcuts are shown below.

        Code:
        "#1" [NODE="1"]Home[/NODE]
        "#2" [NODE="2"]Forum[/NODE]
        "#3" [NODE="3"]Blogs[/NODE]
        "#4" [NODE="4"]Groups[/NODE]
        "#5" [NODE="5"]Uncategorized Groups[/NODE]
        "#6" [NODE="6"]Special[/NODE]
        "#7" [NODE="7"]Visitor Messages[/NODE]
        "#8" [NODE="8"]Private Messages[/NODE]
        "#9" [NODE="9"]Albums[/NODE]
        Last edited by cphelps; 11-30-2022, 10:56 AM.
    • mpc
      Senior Member
      • Feb 2005
      • 979
      • Cypress, CA, USA.
      • BT3000 orig 13amp model

      #5
      Regarding item 23: using the rip fence and miter gauge together. I thought the rule was not to use them together when making through-cuts - i.e. when cross-cutting the workpiece into two distinct parts since the cutoff between the blade and fence can easily rotate slightly leading to kickback... but if the cut is a non-through cut, such as making a dado/groove or half-lap joint, then there is no cutoff so there is nothing to get trapped between the blade and fence. I in fact do use the two fences together to make rabbet cuts on the end of a long/skinny workpiece. Non-through cuts require complete removal of the stock blade guard and splitter; I made my own riving knife (with Lee Styron's free pattern) long ago for non-through cuts.

      Item 13: I hand-spin the blade after blade changes and after changing the throat plate. But not after simple blade height changes. I have a stack of ZCTPs for when I make bevel cuts so the blade gets a hand-spin check whenever the bevel angle and ZCTP are changed.

      Item 4: I routinely wear long sleeve shirts in my shop to keep my arms covered from flying sawdust bits - table saw or lathe created. These are worn-out "dress shirts" with buttoned sleeves so they are not floppy loose at all. I would never wear rings around power tools or electrical stuff (computer innards, house wiring, etc.) either.

      Items 5 and 6 or when cutting large/heavy workpieces: infeed tables really help. I have 4 long tables that attach to the underside of BT3 fence rails: 2 for infeed support and 2 for outfeed; the tables have support legs as well. (pics elsewhere on this website) Thus, for large, heavy, or awkward workpieces, I can position the workpiece on the tables with the saw OFF; the tables support 100% of the workpiece weight. I only have to guide the workpiece into the blade. And, because the tables can slide anywhere on the BT3 fence rails, I can position them so I can walk between them to avoid having to reach over and past them to finish feeding the workpiece past the blade. They get installed only for large workpieces; most of the time I use only a smaller outfeed table.

      Additional item: wear GOOD shoes and keep them tied properly! No long shoestrings flopping about so you don't trip yourself. And the shoes should protect your feet from harm when you kick something accidentally or drop workpieces onto your feet. At least most workpieces... my shoes won't help much if a plywood sheet falls onto them edge-first. I would never consider "flip-flops" or other loose shoes in a shop area: no protection for your feet and toes, they could snag tool stands or cabinet edges at inopportune times leading to balance issues, and sawdust or other possibly sharp debris can easily get in them... not something you want to feel just after you've got the cut started. Think of a chisel slipping out of your hand or falling off the workbench - you want some protection.

      mpc

      edit - a couple other things came to mind after I posted this:
      Tell family members or anybody else that may enter the shop to stay at the door whenever a power tool is in use... don't enter until whatever cut operation is done and the tool is OFF. You don't want them surprising you mid-cut. If there are others in the shop with you - say a child helping you or learning from you - make sure a) they understand safety practices and b) know when and how to stay out of the way.

      Everybody wants a cell phone nearby these days... I set the ring volume on mine low enough that it won't penetrate my hearing protection when any tool is running... I just eyeball it every so often to see if I missed a call. It sits on a cabinet top, not in my pocket, when I'm in the shop. No surprises, no chance it'll fall out of my shirt pocket while I'm leaning over and end up getting sliced-n-diced or kicked by a saw blade. I sometimes have a laptop serving as a TV in the shop; its screen is visible from my hand tool workbench but not from the power tool area. Audio volume is kept low enough that I can't hear it when I'm wearing my hearing protection muffs so a surprise TV event won't distract me. The media player buffers which means I can rewind anything that I might have missed while using a power tool.

      Pets in the shop: like cell phones and TVs in the shop, pets in the shop may lead to disagreements on this site. I would not be surprised if some folks think my above comment about a laptop based TV is a bad idea. I think having pets in the shop, when power tools may be used, is not a good idea. If they'll even stay in the shop when a BT3 or other tool screams to life! Assuming they DO remain in the shop despite the noise... at any time they may decide "hey master, I'm hungry." Or "I need to go outside." Having an animal paw at your leg, surprising you mid-cut, sounds like a bad idea to me. Plus, shop noise is bad enough for humans... ergo the need for hearing protection. Most animals have better hearing than people so their hearing will likely be far more damaged by shop noises. I can't imagine getting a cat, or all but the most cooperative dog, to wear hearing protection either! Fine sawdust won't do them any favors either.
      Last edited by mpc; 04-06-2022, 12:38 AM.

      Comment

      • Jim Frye
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2002
        • 1051
        • Maumee, OH, USA.
        • Ryobi BT3000 & BT3100

        #6
        I did nbr. 13 once. Melted the belts on the saw. Lesson learned.
        Jim Frye
        The Nut in the Cellar.
        ”Sawdust Is Man Glitter”

        Comment

        • cwsmith
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2005
          • 2737
          • NY Southern Tier, USA.
          • BT3100-1

          #7
          Perhaps I missed it, but I see no mention of proper blade height on through cuts. There have been a number of times when I see cuts being done and blade is sticking up a couple of inches or more above the stock. So, minimize the blade exposure, the blade should be adjusted so no more than the bottom of the gullet is exposed above the surface of the stock.

          Also, no mention of the blade guard. It is very rare that my blade guard is not in position. Only when I am not doing a thru-cut is it necessary to have the guard off the machine, unless of course you're using some kind of a sled (which I don't have).

          I tool wear long sleaves unless it's summer. But I never hand feed the stock to a point where I get within even a foot of the blade, and even that's quite rare.

          I don't use my table saw as a work surface, I have benches for that. The front of my table saw is always clear of dust and debris. You always want to be sure of your footing, nothing to trip over, slip on, or in any way distract you from your focus on that spinning blade. And, that means NO radio, phone or visitors unless it's someone helping you; and then, they need to understand the safety rules too!

          It's important to think through any power tool operation. In the case of the table saw, it's where do I have the stock I'm going to feed and is there plenty of room/clearance and can I easily reach for the next piece I'm going to cut. What about the outfeed, is that complete clear? What steps do I need to take to move it out of the way for the following stock. Is the path clear, and what if there's a jam, can I instantly power off, clear the feed, without tripping over something. Always plan for 'reaction'!

          Is your saw on the same circuit as your lights? It shouldn't be. Always make sure that if the saw trips a breaker, you won't find yourself in the dark.

          CWS
          Think it Through Before You Do!

          Comment

          • nicer20
            Established Member
            • Sep 2007
            • 365
            • Dublin, CA
            • BT3100

            #8
            Oh wow Number 1! : I use gloves to avoid splinters when pushing especially in my left fingers which are exerting pressure against the board as it is sliding forward. I haven't still understood the point about loss of tactile feel and gripping power. Although I agree about something looser getting caught up in the blade.

            Comment


            • dbhost

              dbhost
              commented
              Editing a comment
              Every TS owners guide I have read, and our old High School wood shop teacher are pretty clear on this one. No gloves. Just cope with spliters and keep the digits!

            • nicer20
              nicer20 commented
              Editing a comment
              Ok I guess I have to man it up and develop calluses on my left digits to make them splinter resistant.

              I shall stop using gloves from now on.

              Thanks for the guidance.
          • capncarl
            Veteran Member
            • Jan 2007
            • 3564
            • Leesburg Georgia USA
            • SawStop CTS

            #9
            I really doubt the validity of Number 1. That fast spinning sharp saw blade isn’t going pick between a glove of finger and say I’ll wind this one up on my axle and cut this one, it’s just going to cut it! If you had a pair of gloves with loose cuffs like an old worn out pair of bell bottom blue jeans it may grab and wind them up and pull your hand into the blade, but who does that! I still don’t wear gloves while working on the table saw but I still do have some doubts on all the safety rules.

            note….. when I typed in the symbol for pound or number and 1 it spell checked it to Home???

            Comment


            • dbhost

              dbhost
              commented
              Editing a comment
              Yeah, the authors of the forum software did something squirrely this version out. I guess we aren;t supposed to manually number our lists...
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