I am wanting to finish up the LONG ago started projects on upgrading my Central Machinery 14" woodworking bandsaw.
This saw has the power switch in possibly the dumbest location possible. I have an MLCS safety paddle switch that is physically mounted to the upright C frame of the saw in kind of a Grizzly G0555 fashion.
Now the dumb question. Before I pop this thing open, what should I expect to find here for electrical connections? Am I safe in assuming a hot, neutral,aand ground, and just make good solid connection on the motor side and on the switch side and all should be good?
The Craftsman Universal band saw fence is attached with a couple of basically funky aluminum C clamps. I figured out how to hold the fence in position, mark the fence bolt hole locations, and that leads me to the question. I guess I can look, but are the table bolt holes on these things threaded? If not, what size bolt thread should I use? I figure bolting it on will preclude any possibility of the fence rail slipping again...
I ordered a pair of urethane replacement tires. My OE tires always had a weird lump in the tire for the upper wheel, and now they are cracking.
If I understand the process right. Remove the blade, remove the orignial tires, clean the living daylights out of the wheel, and then submerge the new tires in 140 - 150 deg F hot water for 4 minutes or so to get them somewhat stretchy, and then stretch the tires onto the wheel, insuring they seat nicely, once seated reinstall blade and blah blah, then run the saw and set the runout so the blade doesn't walk off of the tires...
Lastly, I hate dust collection below the table on this saw. The OE port was something stupid like 1.25" or something horribly undersized like that. I upsized to a 4" port at the OE location, and it works better, but still not great. I am thinking about pulling the 4" port, replacing it with a 2.5" there, and a 2.5" on the lower wheel guard.
The question is, how to I cut the hole in the lower guard and make it work right? I was thinking hole saw, then match the port tself over the opening, held in place temporarily via duble sided tape, to mark the mount holes, Drill, Probably go ahead with 3M foam mounting tape anyway as a sealant and adhesive, and then bolt down. I'd prefer to rivet, but I suspect the mount holes are too big for rivets.
This saw has the power switch in possibly the dumbest location possible. I have an MLCS safety paddle switch that is physically mounted to the upright C frame of the saw in kind of a Grizzly G0555 fashion.
Now the dumb question. Before I pop this thing open, what should I expect to find here for electrical connections? Am I safe in assuming a hot, neutral,aand ground, and just make good solid connection on the motor side and on the switch side and all should be good?
The Craftsman Universal band saw fence is attached with a couple of basically funky aluminum C clamps. I figured out how to hold the fence in position, mark the fence bolt hole locations, and that leads me to the question. I guess I can look, but are the table bolt holes on these things threaded? If not, what size bolt thread should I use? I figure bolting it on will preclude any possibility of the fence rail slipping again...
I ordered a pair of urethane replacement tires. My OE tires always had a weird lump in the tire for the upper wheel, and now they are cracking.
If I understand the process right. Remove the blade, remove the orignial tires, clean the living daylights out of the wheel, and then submerge the new tires in 140 - 150 deg F hot water for 4 minutes or so to get them somewhat stretchy, and then stretch the tires onto the wheel, insuring they seat nicely, once seated reinstall blade and blah blah, then run the saw and set the runout so the blade doesn't walk off of the tires...
Lastly, I hate dust collection below the table on this saw. The OE port was something stupid like 1.25" or something horribly undersized like that. I upsized to a 4" port at the OE location, and it works better, but still not great. I am thinking about pulling the 4" port, replacing it with a 2.5" there, and a 2.5" on the lower wheel guard.
The question is, how to I cut the hole in the lower guard and make it work right? I was thinking hole saw, then match the port tself over the opening, held in place temporarily via duble sided tape, to mark the mount holes, Drill, Probably go ahead with 3M foam mounting tape anyway as a sealant and adhesive, and then bolt down. I'd prefer to rivet, but I suspect the mount holes are too big for rivets.
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