Santa Claus finally delivered!

[dbhost]

So for Christmas my BIL and his girlfriend gave me a gift card for Rockler. Now there has been a long time item on my wishlist that only Rockler sells, The Rockler Interlock Signmaker's Templates - State Park Font Kit.

They come in 2 sizes, 2-1/4" and 3-3/8".

You see, my wife and I, along with several other members of the extended family are avid hunters, fishermen, and campers.

Now I opted to get the 3-3/8" kit (will foot the bill for the 2-1/4" on my own soon). I did pick up the 5/8" flat bottom sign lettering router bit, Rockler Item #32443, but I must admit, I did so grudgingly. I hate 1/4" shank bits, and would strongly prefer a 1/2" shank bit. I am considering using my MLCS bit instead, but I need to make sure it will work right, need to carefully test fit it all, and make some test cuts.

Once I get it all sorted out, I have a substantial amount of 4/4 x 6 min pine that has been aging in my shop now for about 6 years, it is as stable as it will get. I plan on making some "State Park" signs for friends and family.

The big thing is, paint. I actually want to do the paint to look like a state / federal park sign. The chocolate brown paint shade is super easy to duplicate, but that funky just a shade brighter than school bus yellow for the letters is going to be hard to do... Will keep you all posted on the projects, I want to have these all done early in the year so I can just wrap them up and hand them out for the holidays.

[atgcpaul]

Looking forward to seeing that! Not sure what it is about the State Park signs, but they are very soothing to me. There's a neighborhood down the road that has all their street signs like a state park. When you enter it, it feels like you're on a campground.

What's the order of operation for painting? I guess you have to free hand paint the yellow into the routed letters, right?


Everything you wanted to know about NPS signs except the color of yellow because they indicate white up to 1988.

http://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/onlin...anual_1988.pdf

[JSUPreston]

I've see folks paint the letters first, and then sand or just paint over any of the letter colors that make it out to the sign's surface.

[dbhost]

I am figuring on painting the letters first, then painting the outside with a roller. Touch up by hand as needed. I guess...

[os1kne]

I've heard of people painting their routed letters, and then running the board through a planer to remove the paint that inevitably ends up outside the letters. May be worth a try, if you have a planer.

[dbhost]

I don't think it will be a problem...

[windfall]

I've used these to construct signs for our local rod & gun club. I used green-treated 5/4 decking boards (make sure to get some dry ones) - Painted brown first - (used the generic barn and fence paint from the local farm & fleet store) - after routing the letters (use the online wizard for layout & kerning http://signmaking.rockler.com/) - Scuff sand the board to remove any "fuzzies" on the edge of the routed letters -- I hand-painted the letters with a sun gold gloss enamel (may require two coats) trying to stay inside the channel(s) but don't make yourself crazy (a 1/2 inch round nose artist brush helps)... Once ALL the paint is dry in the letters and the rest of the board, you will have scuffed brown background with letters showing slightly irregular edges...Lightly sand the entire sign again with an orbital sander which will clean and sharpen the edges of the letters... Now I used a 4" foam roller like a brayer to put a thin top coat of brown paint over the entire board. Use a light touch so the brown paint doesn't encroach down into the yellow painted letters. (I actually had better luck using an improperly cleaned foam roller which had dried to a very firm consistency)...This gives returns the background to a nice clean look and you're good to go.
See what they look like here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=b449aef8e6

[atgcpaul]

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=b449aef8e6

Well done! Those look great.

[LCHIEN]

I've heard of people painting their routed letters, and then running the board through a planer to remove the paint that inevitably ends up outside the letters. May be worth a try, if you have a planer.

I think you just have to run it over a belt sander.

[Stytooner]

I think that yellow is called safety yellow. You use it to paint stripes on highways, floors, low head clearance zones etc. It is usually a flat or satin fast drying paint. You can get the reflective stuff too, but that costs some bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/Valspar-21845Q...y+yellow+paint

[dbhost]

I think that yellow is called safety yellow. You use it to paint stripes on highways, floors, low head clearance zones etc. It is usually a flat or satin fast drying paint. You can get the reflective stuff too, but that costs some bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/Valspar-21845Q...y+yellow+paint

Winner Winner Chicken Dinner!

Doesn't Lowes carry Valspar?

[dbhost]

I've used these to construct signs for our local rod & gun club. I used green-treated 5/4 decking boards (make sure to get some dry ones) - Painted brown first - (used the generic barn and fence paint from the local farm & fleet store) - after routing the letters (use the online wizard for layout & kerning http://signmaking.rockler.com/) - Scuff sand the board to remove any "fuzzies" on the edge of the routed letters -- I hand-painted the letters with a sun gold gloss enamel (may require two coats) trying to stay inside the channel(s) but don't make yourself crazy (a 1/2 inch round nose artist brush helps)... Once ALL the paint is dry in the letters and the rest of the board, you will have scuffed brown background with letters showing slightly irregular edges...Lightly sand the entire sign again with an orbital sander which will clean and sharpen the edges of the letters... Now I used a 4" foam roller like a brayer to put a thin top coat of brown paint over the entire board. Use a light touch so the brown paint doesn't encroach down into the yellow painted letters. (I actually had better luck using an improperly cleaned foam roller which had dried to a very firm consistency)...This gives returns the background to a nice clean look and you're good to go.
See what they look like here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=b449aef8e6

Those signs are exactly what I am trying to mimic,

[dbhost]

Okay dumb question. Where can a guy source up some 5/4 kiln dried treated lumber? And I am not allergic to planing down 2x6's.

[Stytooner]

What about redwood, cedar, cypress etc. I don't know that they kiln dry treated lumber. It's general usage doesn't require it to be dry.

[atgcpaul]

My local lumber yard (not HD or Lowes) sells kiln dried treated lumber. I guess you'll just have to call around.