Max amps for 12 gauge wire on a 220V circuit

[capncarl]

I absolutely hate the "universal mobile bases" that are sold now. I can't get by any of my equipment that has them without my feet getting tangled up with them. It could get dangerous working on a running piece of equip. with this type base if you were to walk around it and tripped and tried to stop your fall and your hands got in the wrong area. I found this Jet set of casters that is for cabinet type equipment at an estate sale, now when I buy a tool it must fit my base. These don't look like they would be quite as bad to trip over, maybe.

[atgcpaul]

Yes, I largely agree with you on the mobile bases. I was always tripped on the HTC base my old planer was on. I don't see my new base being too much of a trip hazard. The wheels on both sides will be under the infeed/out feed tables. The one thing I do appreciate about mobile bases over casters is they "lock down" better when the feet are engaged vs locking the casters. Could be I'm buying cheap casters, but my machines on locking casters still have a little "roll" to them because even though the wheels aren't moving, it can still spin around the stem.

[mpc]

Could be I'm buying cheap casters, but my machines on locking casters still have a little "roll" to them because even though the wheels aren't moving, it can still spin around the stem.

That's where "double lock" or "total lock" casters pay off. Besides locking the wheel, the lock mechanism grabs teeth attached to the stem to lock the castering motion as well. My shop is full of roll-around cabinets on such casters and they work quite well for me... locking just 2 of the 4 typically is enough to stop all motion/wiggling. And they stick out less than 2 inches. I'm in the habit of pulling the tool+cabinet to the center of the work area and then rolling it left or right just a few inches so the casters swing to the side. I can lock 2 of them this way (the other two end up under the cabinet) and have no casters or control tabs sticking forward where I stand.

My primary workbench though is on Rockler's workbench casters that put the bench feet directly on the floor. Until I added mouse-pad material to the underside of the bench feet it actually slid around more than the locking caster equipped cabinets when doing heavy work. I want the bench on its own feet when working though - not on double-locking casters - because casters probably won't survive pounding forces while I'm hand-making mortises.

mpc

[atgcpaul]

Finally got around to getting the J/P onto the mobile base today. Used some 2x4s underneath the base and my floor jack to raise it high enough off the pallet to move the pallet out of the way.


After it was sitting in the air, I scratched my head for a bit to figure out how to lower it further. In the end, I held onto the tables and kicked the supports out. I was wearing a Superman Tshirt so that helped.

After some more work, I got it onto the Jet base which was the easiest base I have ever put together. I thought it was missing nuts and bolts, but there are none.



Now I've got to do the wiring.

Paul

[capncarl]

That looks like one nice tool, can't wait until the sawdust report,,,,, and photos.

[atgcpaul]

That looks like one nice tool, can't wait until the sawdust report,,,,, and photos.

Me, too!

I have been a little disappointed with the paint job. Areas that I haven't touched at all look like they didn't receive enough paint or paint has rubbed off. Not sure how that's even possible. From the serial number, looks like it was just manufactured in September. Anyway, I'm not one to usually notice these things or care, but maybe because of my advancing years or because this is the most expensive tool I've owned, I expected better.

I did notice the manual said wire it up, and turn it on. If the blades are spinning in the opposite, switch the wires. I don't remember seeing the same warning with my Grizzly TS and BS. Maybe I got lucky or there's some kind of circuitry preventing them from running backwards?

[atgcpaul]

I took the day off to run the new circuit from the subpanel to the other side of the shop for the new J/P outlet--47' of wire. I was very happy when I turned it on that there was no smoke and that the blades turned in the right direction. I'm excited to have my own jointer. I haven't used one in 10 years and have never owned one--just worked with what the planer spit out and used a straight line rip jig on my TS.




It didn't take long to wipe off the grease but since the tables are roughly grooved, it's hard to tell. The grooves also grabbed onto the cloth I used. I think I'll just have to run some sacrificial boards through to clean it up more.




I was amazed at how relatively quiet the machine is. Definitely quieter than the old lunchbox and DC and TS.

I only had time to run one board through and that was fine. I've only used jointers with porkchop style guards so the bridge style guard will take some more practice. I've only jointed a face, but switching over to planer mode is as fast as they claim, if not faster. The top is a heavy beast, though.

The segmented head is super cool. I'm looking forward to using it on some challenging stock.

[LCHIEN]

Whew, I'm trying to figure out how that blade guard works.
Is that a 8-inch Jointer planer?

[LCHIEN]

Me, too!

...

I did notice the manual said wire it up, and turn it on. If the blades are spinning in the opposite, switch the wires. I don't remember seeing the same warning with my Grizzly TS and BS. Maybe I got lucky or there's some kind of circuitry preventing them from running backwards?

If its single phase, which I imagine it is, then the motor direction is established by which pole they placed the internal start capacitor on the motor and cannot be changed simply by swapping wires. The circuitry establishing the direction is that start capacitor. That's how virtually all single phase AC induction motors work.

[atgcpaul]

Whew, I'm trying to figure out how that blade guard works.
Is that a 8-inch Jointer planer?

It's a 12"

Turning the black knob on the left end of the guard arm raises and lowers the guard to provide clearance for the stock. The airfoil looking piece that is perpendicular to the fence is either adjusted all the way to the fence for face jointing or a little bit away from the fence to allow stock to pass for edge jointing. During face jointing, as you push the stock under the guard bridge (airfoil piece) with your left hand (and pad), you lift your left hand up and over the bridge while still applying pressure with your right hand and have your left hand reapply pressure to the stock on the outfeed side. The thinking is your hands are never over the spinning cutter.

If its single phase, which I imagine it is, then the motor direction is established by which pole they placed the internal start capacitor on the motor and cannot be changed simply by swapping wires. The circuitry establishing the direction is that start capacitor. That's how virtually all single phase AC induction motors work.

It is single phase and you're probably right. I'm just going by what the manual said about switching the wires. I guess this explains why I didn't win the Powerball. I'm never this lucky.