Router Parallysis

[herb fellows]

All good advice here, my personal pref is for a variable speed, 2 base. Virtually any brand name will do, they all make decent routers. I have 5 different ones, and it really depends on what I'm doing as to which one I go to.
I would strongly suggest trying to find a woodworking club locally. Tell them you are considering buying your first router and would like to know if it is possible to come to a meeting or whatever and maybe try out (or at least see in action) several routers. At the very least, get to hold them and see what feels comfortable, they really do vary a lot.
If you have a Woodcraft nearby, they rent space and time and some tools (not sure about a router though), so that might be an option also.

[sscherin]

Funny.. I have just one router.. The M12V..
Yeah a 3 1/2hp 13 lb router does have it's disadvantages but it spends 90% of it's time hanging in the router table anyway

I wouldn't mind getting a smaller one for out of table use but for now I get by with the beast.

[jdon]

contrarian opinion: choice of power and control/safety factor:

As a relatively new/inexperienced router user myself (and never confused with Arnold Schwarzeneger or Hulk Hogan), I went with a lower powered router (Milwaukee 1.75 combo). Although I never worked them, when I played around with bigger (i.e. heavier) routers on displays at HD, Lowes, etc., I didn't feel as much in control of the machine. I feel much safer not having to horse around a heavier router. [I'm not a biker, but my guess is that a big old Harley is not usually considered a beginner's bike!]

BTW ditto the comment regarding the hand grip on the Milwaukee- great feeling of control. Also, with a less powerful machine, even without soft start and variable speed, start-up torque is not sufficient to lose control.

Granted, none of my projects so far have needed large bits. I figure when I need more power, I'll look for some hog with VS and soft start, to table mount permanently, and keep the Milwaukee for hand routing.

[Uncle Cracker]

My M12V hangs in the router lift right where it belongs, and I use a Bosch and a PC (both 2-hp) for my handheld work. Like 'em all...

[BigguyZ]

I've had a lot of routers in my time...

My first was the Ryobi Plunge Base, and I found it a very good router for the money. I have no problems with it at all, and if you're on a budget I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend it.

The full-size router I use most often is my Bosch two base kit. I haven't used the plung base part much, but the router has a great fit and finish and works very well. If you want maximum versitility, I'd say this is a good way to go. A bit pricier than other options, but you can get a good deal and be set.

I also have a massive PC 3 1/4 plunge router. It was a replacement when my Ryobi was stolen. It's huge bulky, but sometimes that's good. Right now, it's hanging on a Woodpeckers' Plungelift in my table.

When I'm doing work around the house (carpentry), I use my Bosch Colt a lot. Probably the most used router recently. It's portable, handy, and the 1/4 collet is fine for most edge detail bits. I'm a bit fan.

[JimD]

There is a place for large routers (15A) and small routers (like the Bosch Colt) but a first router should be mid-sized - 11 or 12 amps. The big ones are heavy and tiring for all around use but great for router tables or other heavy duty tasks. I use my little Colt about as much as any of my routers now that I have it. Mostly because it is a quality tool and also lighter/easy to control. I will probably use it tonight to flush a frame to a cabinet.

The most important part of a router is the collet, however. My old cheap Craftman slips which has gotten it bounced off the floor more than once and it now resides semi-permanently in a drawer. Definitely get someting with a decent collet and a 1/2 inch collet is a good indication the collet is decent (i.e. the junk is typically 1/4 inch).

Plunge routers will cut mortises nicely and do a few other things fixed base routers will not readily do. The Bosch combo kit usually gets the best reviews but the reviewers also typically comment that any of the top brands are nice routers - i.e. PC is also good (and sometimes ties for first place), DeWalt and Makita are also good. Milwaukee makes fine tools. I am less confident in Hitachi but I would get one before buying a Ryobi or a Craftsman.

I have a reconditioned 12 inch Hitachi CMS, my Bosch Colt is reconditioned, and I have a reconditioned DeWalt corded drill. All looked new when I got them and have worked without any issues. If Tool King's price is good I would buy from them but you can buy direct from CPO. I bought the Colt and CMS from them. I'm not sure where I got the DeWalt. My Ryobi 3x21 belt sander may also be reconditioned.

I would buy a mid-sized plunge/fixed base kit from whichever of the big tool makers I got a good price from. I would buy a reconditioned if the price was at least 10% below new and the warranty was normal (typically a year). I would want speed control unless you already know you will buy a bigger unit for the router table. Big bits should be used in a router table and slowed down.

I have 4 routers I use regularly and 2 more that normally reside in drawers and were too cheaply made to be bought in the first place. In addition to the Colt, the routers I use are two PC690s and a Ryobi 500 (in the router table because it's plunge mechanism started sticking and it is the biggest router I own).

Jim

[jabe]

All good advices given. Select a router that feels comfortable in your hands, with a soft start feature. Combo base routers are excellent choice for the beginner, look @ the amp ratings (more the better). Get a router that uses both 1/4" & 1/2" collets and you should be well on your way.

Like others mentioned here, as the years go on, most likely you'll pick up another one & another one. I have 6, an old antique Rockwell, old craftsman 1/4 hp, old B&D 1 1/2 hp cyclone, PC 690, 2hp plunge DeWalt and DeWalt trim router kit. Yes, all of them still running, I prefer using my trim router cause its light, just don't force it and it'll do the job. I also have a roto-zip.

[LCHIEN]

i can hardly disagree with the advice already given.
My advice fist would be, if you can affordthe bucks for the $200 routers instead of the $100 bargain routers, go for it. A router is a basic woodwrkers tool. A poll I did before shows those of us on BT3central have 2.6 routers average, showing most have opted for at least a second if not third one.

To keep from buying more, spend a bit more and get the features that a Dewalt 618 kit or my favorite Bosch 1617evspk has:
two bases, the routers are managable but powerful.
1/4 and 1/2" collet use, I much prefer the bigger ones they are more stable and solid feeling and safer. if you buy a cheaper 1/4" only router to begin, you will be stuck with an inventory of small shank 1/4" bits. you won't want to use when you move up to a 1/2" shank. The bits generally carry no premium for the larger shanks.
Two bases give you a lot of flexibility.
Variable speed is nice and not a lot extra. Compare the Bosch 1617 (single speed) vs the Bosch 1617evs (variable speed).

[pelligrini]

if you buy a cheaper 1/4" only router to begin, you will be stuck with an inventory of small shank 1/4" bits. you won't want to use when you move up to a 1/2" shank.

I'm finding myself with the opposite problem now that I picked up a Colt recently. Most all of my decent bits are 1/2" and I only have a few 1/4" shanks that are worth using. I bought really cheap 1/4" bits for my original craftsman router, but I wouldn't want to even use them around any finish work anymore.

Everytime I pick up my Colt to use it in a perfectly suited job, I don't have the proper bit in a 1/4" shank.

[Mr__Bill]

Reading through the advice everyone has given you here, the starting point may be a trim router. You can get a good one for about the same as an inexpensive full size router. You will never grow out of it and set it aside as you will always have a use for it and may find that it fills the need for most of your routing needs. The 1/4" bits for it often are less expensive and can be used in a bigger router later. When later comes you should know what you need or want in features and in the meantime you can start pricing and looking for that great deal.

Bill

[gerti]

Just stay away from Festool, it's like crack!

[bing!]

Personal recommendations and reviews count a lot for me, so I will be taking a very close look at the Bosch combo kit.

I have the budget, the router is my b-day present to myself, but also a strong personal trait of buying just what I need and not too much more. If the extra horses will get used, then so be it

Regarding Craigslist, I have been scouting daily for a couple of weeks now, but the selling prices are not very attractive. They all average about 150 for the brands I mentioned, so I am seriously considering new.

Thank you all for your advise. Makes things a lot easier. /bing

[LCHIEN]

I'm finding myself with the opposite problem now that I picked up a Colt recently. Most all of my decent bits are 1/2" and I only have a few 1/4" shanks that are worth using. I bought really cheap 1/4" bits for my original craftsman router, but I wouldn't want to even use them around any finish work anymore.

Everytime I pick up my Colt to use it in a perfectly suited job, I don't have the proper bit in a 1/4" shank.

i sort of disagree, altho I've not got a Colt sized router yet.
There's a lot of cuts I do that involve multiple passes, either to protect the bit from excessive force or to prevent serious chatter with bigger cutting bits which will happen if you feed to fast. Don't want to take even more passes with a smaller router! More power will let you feed faster, for sure, a lightweiht router should not be the first such tool - stick to the 11Amp or so full sized routers.

I guess if you told me you were going to only use the trim router for 1/4" or smaller roundovers then I might say its OK...

[JimD]

Loring,

I agree with you that a first router should be a mid-sized combo. It will do everything, but but a little router is convenient for things other than small round-overs. Last night, for instance, I was flushing the frame on a large built-in book case. It is over 5 feet wide and about 8 1/2 feet tall. The middle shelf, bottom shelf and one outside edge needed to be trimmed. It will be painted so the frame is yellow pine, 3/4 thick. I did fairly well with installation so I only had to trim on average about 1/16 inch. I have used a mid-sized router for this in the past but holding one to cut horizontally can get a bit tiring and it would not have cut as close to the intersections because of the size of the base. The little Colt was great for this. Much easier to hold in this position. I back-cut frames like this so I skimmed them first and then made at least one pass. A deeper cut going against the rotation wants to jump regardless of the routers power. Cutting the other way risks chip out.

I also made the dados in the melamine body of the bookcase with the little router. Again, they were shallow, less than 1/16. I just wanted to remove the melamine so the glue would hold. The Colt worked great.

Another job I use the Colt for is inletting for hinges. The wood removal is modest and well within it's capabilities.

I resisted a long time, just using my PC690s for all hand-held work but am glad now I finally got the little Bosch. I would probably have been a better choice than my second PC690 but it's nice to have all my better routers.

Jim

[pelligrini]

I guess if you told me you were going to only use the trim router for 1/4" or smaller roundovers then I might say its OK...

My use of the Colt so far has been for what it was intended for, flush trimming, small roundovers, chamfers etc. Mostly uses as Jim describes too. It's just that most of my bits are 1/2" shank, and I've slowly been adding some similar 1/4" versions for use in the Colt.

It is much easier to handle than my Dewalt 618, especially when I'm working on something that isn't on my bench. I really wished I had my Colt when I was cutting some circular openings in a fur down above our kitchen sink for some small halogen can lights. Holding my 618 upside down and doing the cuts above the counter wasn't easy. I was pretty darn tired halfway into the 2nd of three holes.

A Colt or similar has it's uses, but it is no substitute for a good router. It is more for convenience and ease of use for specific tasks, a luxury not a necessity. If mine broke, I'd probably get another fairly quickly though.