Router Parallysis

[bing!]

Ive been trying to buy my first router. Can't seem to pull the trigger. Ive never used one, never held one, but I am sure I need one

Things that are rushing thru my mind.

Do I need 2.25 hp? Or 1.75 hp do?

Is Porter-Cable worth the premium? Or can I save a couple bucks on Dewalt, Milwaukee or Ridgid?

Is buying a Tool King reconditioned router asking for trouble? I have heard horror stories about CPO.

Buy a fixed unit? Or fixed and plunge kit?

Do I need variable speed?

Aiyeeee. I would be easier if I have had a few chances using one, then I'd know what I want. Cie la vie!

/bing

[os1kne]

Comments inserted below.

Ive been trying to buy my first router. Can't seem to pull the trigger. Ive never used one, never held one, but I am sure I need one

Things that are rushing thru my mind.

Do I need 2.25 hp? Or 1.75 hp do? I DON'T THINK THAT YOU'D FEEL THE DIFFERENCE.

Is Porter-Cable worth the premium? Or can I save a couple bucks on Dewalt, Milwaukee or Ridgid? YOU PROBABLY BE EQUALLY HAPPY WITH ANY OF THOSE BRANDS, THEY'RE ALL GOOD. (at some point you may want/need to invest $10 or so in a baseplate that accepts PC bushings, as they're the standard.)

Is buying a Tool King reconditioned router asking for trouble? I have heard horror stories about CPO. CAN'T COMMENT.

Buy a fixed unit? Or fixed and plunge kit? DEPENDS WHAT YOU PLAN TO DO. I use my fixed base ~90% of the time.

Do I need variable speed? PROBABLY NOT. (Depends what you do.) My small router isn't VS, and I haven't missed it.

Aiyeeee. I would be easier if I have had a few chances using one, then I'd know what I want. Cie la vie!

/bing

[thrytis]

Any of the brands you listed are well respected. A kit with two bases is probably the best for starting if money isn't a factor. If you just go with one base, a plunge would be more flexible, though most fixed base routers in the 1.75-2.25 hp class offer plunge bases you can buy later.

I probably run my router at full speed 90% of the time. If you get a fixed speed router, you can later buy ($15-$25) a speed control later. I do like the soft start feature (prevents the initial jerk of the router when start) though, which i think only come on variable speed routers. I can live without it though.

Don't worry so much about it. Like you said, you're buying your first router... you'll likely buy several later (and still be using your first one) regardless of what you pick so you can pick up addition ones with the features you're missing. I have three so far and am looking for a fourth, but my first router (fixed speed/fixed base/1.75 hp PC router) still gets used regularly.

[LarryG]

Yes, you DO need a router. One of the big-name woodworking writers once wrote something like, "With a table saw and a router, you can build almost anything." Not 100% true but with those two tools you can accomplish a lot. A WHOLE lot.

Horsepower: Look at amps, rather than HP. A lot of the ~2HP class routers are either 11 or 12 amps; either will do.

Brand: As Bill says, pretty much all those brands are fine. Features and ergonomics vary a bit so personal preference can enter into the decision, but virtually all the two-base kits (what I recommend: keep reading) will do the job. The Bosch 1617 is well-regarded; I own one of those, and like it fine, although for whatever reason I don't use it as much as some of my other routers.

Reconditioned: I bought a DeWalt 616 (fixed base, non-VS) router for dovetailing from Tool King. It works fine, as good as new. But this is one of those "YMMV" areas.

Fixed, Plunge, or Both: Strongly recommend a two-base kit. In a short time you will want a router table, and with a two-base kit you can mount the fixed base in the table and use the plunge base for hand work. If you must choose, get a plunge model. A plunger will do everything a fixed-base will, and it will plunge too. However, many plunge-only routers are as expensive as the two-base kits.

Variable Speed: For handheld routing VS is occasionally useful but not absolutely vital. For table routing involving large bits (anything over 1" or so in diameter), VS is mandatory for safety.

Bottom Line: Get yourself a nice two-base kit with variable-speed and you'll be well set in the router department for a good long while. In addition to the Bosch 1617, the Milwaukee 5616 and DeWalt 618 kits are especially nice.

And a big +1 to Eric's first router comment. I bought my first router 30-odd years ago. I now own, um, 10. I think ...

[poolhound]

You probably dont absolutley need 2.25 but having the extra HP may be a benefit in the long run. Once you start using a router you will undoubtedly end up with multiples like many of the rest of us.

Like others have commented do get a kit with a fixed and plunge base. Variable speed is a really good idea. You can get good deals on recons but if you keep your eyes peeled you can get some great deals on new. I have owned PC routers and they are nice but all the ones you mentioned would be just fine.You may want to check the Hitachi KM12 kit, it is often on sale at Amazon and I belive quite a few memebers here have one and say good things about it.

Below is what I have right now. The Bosch sits full time in my router table and you cant really go wrong with a 1617 kit. The other two are used for freehand work. The Dewalt motor is great and I like the D base a lot. I am not so keen on the plunge base and wish I had kept the plunge base for the Bosch as it was much better.

If you only need light work then the Bosch colt is the most awesome router. It is often called a trim router but it can do much more. It cant replace a heavy weight motor but once you have one you find yourself using it more often than reaching for the big guns.



http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSP...3497974&sr=1-2


http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618B3...3497807&sr=1-1


http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVSN...3497974&sr=1-4

[pelligrini]

Good info so far. My first router was a cheesy craftsman that I got in a small craftsman router table package. Low power, fixed base, 1/4" collett, etc. I later picked up a Dewalt 618 three base package and have been very happy since. I think it's better to spend a little more and get a quality product that will serve multiple needs, fixed, plunge, (I like the D handle too)

The best thing I like about the one I have now is the ability to put the motor into a router lift I put in the extension on the saw. The majority of my router use is on the router table, and the lift makes it a real pleasure to use.

[jackellis]

I have four. One is an old Craftsman with a broken collet lever I should get fixed. Another is a Ryobi I bought when I got started in this hobby in earnest. They both mostly sit on the shelf - good as beaters but not for precision work.

I have a Bosch 1617 for hand work and a Hitachi M12 mounted in a table. The Hitachi is a beast - goes through anything. The Bosch is nice to work with. I have not tried any of the other brands. I got the Bosch and the Hitachi for a total of around $300 - look for deals.

[BobSch]

Something else to look for is a router with both 1/4" and 1/2" collets. Large bits usually have a 1/2" shank. Of course really large bits require more power.

I'm feeling router-poor, I've only got three.

[tommyt654]

In don,t know if its that important for you to have a NEW router as a starter. Here in Atl there are at least a dozen or more on Craigslist weekly at substantial saving that after some testing could prove to be a viable alternative to spending large amounts of dough until your sure of just how much actual use you will get from it. But yes you should have one. I,ve purchased several nice P.C.,Ryobi, and Milwaulkee routers from craigslist with no problems from any of them other than my lack of skill. I,d advise that you might consider doing the same until you determine what and how you need it.

[os1kne]

Something else to look for is a router with both 1/4" and 1/2" collets. Large bits usually have a 1/2" shank. Of course really large bits require more power.

I'm feeling router-poor, I've only got three.

Very good point! If I were looking for a new ~ 2hp router, I'd insist on both the 1/4" and 1/2 " collets. I'm partial to 1/2" bits.

[RayintheUK]

Loads of good advice so far. I'll add my quids worth!

Do I need 2.25 hp? Or 1.75 hp do?

There's no substitute for raw power, but there is context for it. In a table, both power and VS are key factors. Hand-held, you'll rarely need the grunt of >2HP, but ½" and ¼" collets are a distinct advantage, as is VS, depending on what milling you're intending to do.

Is Porter-Cable worth the premium? Or can I save a couple bucks on Dewalt, Milwaukee or Ridgid?

A good brand is always going to have better after-sales and warranty facilities, so in the long term go for one of the big names. If, however, this is just a punt to see if you get on with a router, you might consider that a lesser make or poorer specification would do. NO! - it will make the overall experience much poorer and ultimately less satisfying. Go for the very best you can afford.

Is buying a Tool King reconditioned router asking for trouble? I have heard horror stories about CPO.

See above.

Buy a fixed unit? Or fixed and plunge kit?

It actually depends on how easy any plunge router is to use inverted (in a table). If easy - get the plunge. If not, get a two-base kit, although you'll likely pay a less-power penalty for table use if you do.

Do I need variable speed?

Strictly, no. Practically, YES, every time. As you "grow into" routing, you will want to take on more advanced projects, like panel raising, cope and stick, etc. For the larger bits, VS is ESSENTIAL, so build it in now and save another purchase down the road.

Aiyeeee. I would be easier if I have had a few chances using one, then I'd know what I want. Cie la vie!

I'm sure that you could arrange this with a little research, but it's not a deal-breaker. I did a "beginners' page" a while back. It's here if you get the time.

HTH

Ray

[jussi]

I think combo routers give you the best bang for your buck. I love the feel of my DW618 combo router. If I were in your position today I would be looking at the Dewalt DW618 or Bosch 1617 combo. Those 2 almost always have great reviews.

My best advice though would be to go to your HD or Lowes and see how they fit in your hands. See if the plunge action feels comfortable to you.

[Mr__Bill]

Ive been trying to buy my first router. Can't seem to pull the trigger. Ive never used one, never held one, but I am sure I need one

Defiantly need one, perhaps two or more! Once you get into it you will find a trim router very handy. I have a cheap one with a 1/8" round over bit permanently installed in it, and another with a straight flush cut bit.

Do I need 2.25 hp? Or 1.75 hp do?

This depends on what you do with it. Rail and Style bits are larger and can use the added horsepower while small straight or round over bits will work just fine with a 1.75 or less.

Is Porter-Cable worth the premium? Or can I save a couple bucks on Dewalt, Milwaukee or Ridgid?

As a Milwaukee owner I am a bit biased here. I like the hand held grip on my router and went with Milwaukee for that reason, plus it was the top rated one in Popular Woodworking when I got it. You should hold several and see how they feel in your hands. The Milwaukee you can use safely with one hand.

Is buying a Tool King reconditioned router asking for trouble? I have heard horror stories about CPO.

If you have a descent warranted or return option then it should be ok.

Buy a fixed unit? Or fixed and plunge kit?

Both, at some point you will want a router table and the fixed base can be left on the table for easy switching. I also find the fixed base easier to use when I have to have an exact depth. The plunge base is however more versatile in uses and really is necessary if your going to do some deep mortises with the router.

Do I need variable speed?

Defiantly, for larger bits it's necessary to slow things down. For me the soft start that variable speed routers have is very important, it's a wrist saver and keeps the router from diving into the work.

Aiyeeee. I would be easier if I have had a few chances using one, then I'd know what I want. Cie la vie!

/bing

If you go the route of Craig's List you should be able to get into using the router for a minimal investment and you will get to see just what you can do with it.

Having both 1/4 and 1/2 is important, the 1/2" run cooler and are less likely to break, however some bits are only available in 1/4"

Another accessory to get are a set of good hearing protectors. If I am going to spend a long time with the router I'll use both the foam in the ear and a set of muffs to kill the whine of the router. For the muffs get the ones sold for use with a chainsaw, better protection, better construction and less expensive than the ones sold in the tool department. HD carries a nice set in the outdoor department. Don't forget the eye protection either.

Bill
over here in the rain

[steve-norrell]

Just to be slightly contrarian, I should warn you that buying the first router puts you on a slippery slope . . .

I was hesitant when I bought my first one, but I now own three. The Bosch 1617 mounted in a lift, a Sears edition of the Bosch that I use in a plunge base, and the "baby-Bosch" (PR20) that I use for edge trimming and round overs. I wouldn't be without any of them now --- that is, now that I know how useful they are.

In order of usage, I use the Bosch 1617 the most (in a lift), the little PR20 next, and the Sears-Bosch version the least -- but I do use them all.

My suggestion for first purchase: the Bosch 1617, or its equivalent, in the dual base kit. I would consider that the most useful combo until you are ready for the next step. And that will surely come -- probably sooner than you think.

Good luck, Steve

[Hoover]

You have gotten some great advice on routers. Of course you need router bits to use on the tool. Holbren offers great deals on bits, and BT3 members get a 10% discount with the code BT310. MLCS is another good choice. I have used both and are happy with their products. Try to use 1/2 shank bits, less chatter and stand up to continued use.