Advice on table saw choice

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  • Charlie
    replied
    I believe that the saw that Sawatzky mentions is a fairly popular Hybrid saw. I would suggest though that you either bolt the saw to the floor, or bolt it to a mobile base that would give it a little wider foot print. To me the cabinets on most Hybrids look narrow and top heavy. And if you can, run the saw on 220V or put in a dedicated 110V circuit just for the saw. I think it's overlooked by alot of people not haveing a circuit that can adequetly feed the power of the higher amperage machines. It's easier on the motor too. Now to the it will be a lot better for dust collection than a contractor saw would be statement. I really get tired of hearing those comments. I worked on dust collection for my Contractors saw for about a year and finally came up with a design that I'm completely happy with, and other people are as well.
    Last edited by Charlie; 12-14-2009, 08:12 PM.

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  • Sawatzky
    replied
    That Craftsman Pro table saw with the Bies fences is a great deal. While not a true "professional" cabinet saw, it does have cabinet mounted trunions, and will be a lot better for dust collection than a contractor saw would be. I would jump on it!

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  • TrackDays
    Guest replied
    Hey guys, thanks again. Okay, found a floor model clearance on this saw - think it is a keeper. I still need to find out about warranties, etc. but good deal.

    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=Y&origin=prod

    $470 - tax in, out the door.

    Or this used one. Craftsman special edition 315.228390. Like this, only also has a lot of accesories - 2 dado blades, 0 zero clearance insert, extra miter gauge, et etc.

    http://www.ohiotoolexchange.com/imag...nTblSawRtr.jpg

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  • Charlie
    replied
    Pictures of the saws your considering at each time would be nice.
    Last edited by Charlie; 12-14-2009, 06:23 AM.

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  • Charlie
    replied
    Originally posted by TrackDays
    Next saw up is a craftsman 315.228390 contractor saw with a bunch of accessories (dados, joint clamp set, taper jig, etc etc) for $250. Nice cast iron left wing with router plate, and stamped right wing. The saga continues
    Keep looking for a Delta with a good fence like a Biesemeyer, Unifence, Delta T2, Vega, they are out there. The Craftsman might be an ok saw, but you may have to replace the fence, a good fence is an important part of a good table saw, and makes useing one a joy. Also, the Craftsman's are usually a dime a dozen, they don't hold a resale value like a Delta does.
    Last edited by Charlie; 12-14-2009, 07:12 AM.

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  • annunaki
    replied
    What about the Sears updated version of the BT3100?

    For about $35 more ($335+) ON SALE -you can get the Sears Version #21829 on wheels that folds up for easy storage or transport.

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  • TrackDays
    Guest replied
    Hey guys, the advice is very much appreciated. I went to look at the BT3100 and was indeed brand new, but wouldn't budge off the $300. So I said no to that one, but left my contact details if he lowers the price.

    Unfortunately, by that time the contractor saw was already sold. It happens. In the end the biesemeyer fence was a little beat up from pictures he sent, so not the saw for me anyways.

    Next saw up is a craftsman 315.228390 contractor saw with a bunch of accessories (dados, joint clamp set, taper jig, etc etc) for $250. Nice cast iron left wing with router plate, and stamped right wing. The saga continues

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  • softop41
    replied
    the BT3100 is overpriced! I only paid $300 new in the box and have it for sale for $125 ion great condition with the full accessory kit and more. However, since you don't list any location that may noot do you any good.
    I don't know anything about the Rockwell except that it is a contractor's saw and therefore will have little , if any, dust collection from under the table where a heck of a lot of mess accumlates. It is hard to beat the BT in many ways. Sure, it is not as heavy, etc., but it sure makes great cuts just the was it was built which includes a riving knife that the contractor saw probably doesn't have. It is a saw that is much easier to attach the various jigs and fixtures that you will need for projects to because of its built-in "T" nut and track system.
    Last edited by softop41; 12-13-2009, 11:47 AM. Reason: more thoughts

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  • LCHIEN
    replied
    Originally posted by lchien
    A contractor saw is heavier duty but this one sounds real old. Not necessarily more accurate. a lot more variables. 1 HP motor? worn out belts (what does that say?). Motor hangs out the back, dust collection?


    Originally posted by Charlie
    Old is actually a good thing, it beats alot of the import crap thats out there now. As far as accuracy, I don't see how you can even think the BT is close. Hard saying what happened to the original motor, the belt he described as needing to be replaced, no mention of it being wore out, it could just be cracked from age. Motor hangs out the back ? why is that a big deal and outfeed tables aren't ? When the saw is not in use, the motor can be easily disconnected for storage. Dust collection ? Here is your answer. http://sites.google.com/site/woodchuck1957/home
    I can make rips and crosscuts all day long at better than .010" (better than 1/64th") of intended size often within about .005", perfectly crosscut with no wander, dead square. I don't think a heavily used old contractor saw with possibly worn arbor and worn miter bar and slot can do that without rehab. I'll stand by my accuracy statement.

    Actually the whole BT thing will be ready to go pretty much but the old contractor saw may need a lot of rehab. or, it may not. It can cut well, I'm sure when properly restored.

    My point is a well used saw can be a crapshoot.

    My other points about the motor hanging out the back is storage room and footprint. and about the dust collection, the BT is somewhat equipped for it with its dust chute, the contractor saw requires more work, again.

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  • Charlie
    replied
    Originally posted by LCHIEN
    A contractor saw is heavier duty but this one sounds real old. Not necessarily more accurate. a lot more variables. 1 HP motor? worn out belts (what does that say?). Motor hangs out the back, dust collection?
    Old is actually a good thing, it beats alot of the import crap thats out there now. As far as accuracy, I don't see how you can even think the BT is close. Hard saying what happened to the original motor, the belt he described as needing to be replaced, no mention of it being wore out, it could just be cracked from age. Motor hangs out the back ? why is that a big deal and outfeed tables aren't ? When the saw is not in use, the motor can be easily disconnected for storage.
    Last edited by Charlie; 01-10-2010, 03:00 PM.

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  • cabinetman
    replied
    Originally posted by Charlie
    The Biesemeyer fence alone is worth the asking price of the Rockwell Contractor's saw. It would be interesting to see a picture of it. I'm guessing that it has cast iron wings on it and the crows foot stand. A Fenner Drives PowerTwist link belt ( for about $30 I'm guessing ) would be far better then the stock belt. The saw should have a 1 1/2 hp motor on it, but even if you buy a new motor for it you'd still have a pretty good deal on a saw that will easily outlast and out perform a BT, plus has a premium fence, and was American made. I also recommend pulling the tiny toggle power switch and electrical box out of the inside of the saw cabinet for two reasons. One, the electrical box in it's stock location fills up with dust. Two, the tiny toggle power switch is hard to find during sawing operations. I replaced mine with a large paddle switch and mounted it under the left side of the fence rail where it's easy to reach and find. I've had my Delta Contractor's saw since 95, and never regreted the purchase.


    I agree with this take. Having a Dayton motor, it's a replacement. As for pulleys/belts, they can be changed for accommodation. I would opt for the Rockwell. I've had that saw and when set up properly will cut all day long. Most of the dust comes straight down. A custom cabinet with either a deep pull out drawer (if you have no DC), or a shroud with a DC output works pretty good.
    .

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  • LCHIEN
    replied
    $300 for a BT3100 w/access kit sounds high. At the end of its production it was $300 new in the box and the accessory kit, listed for $100 but was often discounted or thrown in during earlier promos. Slightly used but used nonetheless you should be able to get a better deal. It would probably not be in any kind of warranty as its been out of US production for over a year. I'd judge $200 to 250 as a good deal for a saw that can be very nice for someone looking for an accurate saw and using it on a hobby basis (and not a tool abuser).

    A contractor saw is heavier duty but this one sounds real old. Not necessarily more accurate. a lot more variables. 1 HP motor? worn out belts (what does that say?). Motor hangs out the back, dust collection?
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 12-13-2009, 12:32 AM.

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  • Charlie
    replied
    Originally posted by Alex Franke
    It still seems like rockwell has a lot of unknowns to me.
    Minor unknowns considering that if well maintained, the Contractor's saw will out live you and your kids. Plus it has a fence that is found in alot of cabinet shops. The cast iron top, and inner works give it more weight, which dampens vibration. They are two totally different classes of table saws. The BT I would class as being more of a portable jobsite saw, light in weight.
    Last edited by Charlie; 12-13-2009, 11:39 AM.

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  • Alex Franke
    replied
    It still seems like rockwell has a lot of unknowns to me.

    You might also check to see if the BT is still under warranty...

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  • Charlie
    replied
    Originally posted by JimD
    On the other hand, it is more accurate than the typical contractors saw. You need to build a custom base to get the most out of the BT3100 but if you do, it will do the work of a cabinet saw.
    You can use an automotive belt of the right diameter or get one of the multipiece belts. Replacing bearings or the arbor is not out of the question but I would want to understand the cost before I purchased the saw.

    Jim
    The BT is more accurate ? it will do the work of a cabinet saw ? Seems like a couple of pretty bold statements. You cannot use an automotive belt on an electric motor pulley, the bevel on the belt is different. Bearings for the arbor on the Contractor's saw are fairly inexpensive and easy to find if you need them. I'm guessing that if the guy spent the money on a Forrest blade that the bearings are in pretty good shape, but never hurts to ask if they have been replaced or checked, far from a deal breaker.
    Last edited by Charlie; 12-12-2009, 09:49 AM.

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