One last (I think) Question about assembling the HF 32208

[dbhost]

I have it MOSTLY figured out, but there are two, uh, extra (?) pieces. They are black, stamped metal, one is shaped like sheet metal U stock, the other is L shaped, and I can't find where they are, or what they do anywhere in the manual. Can somebody clue me in please? Where are they supposed to be, and how do they go in? Pics might help too...

[Tom Slick]

Are they blade guard extensions?

[LCHIEN]

if you really want help, clue us in on what's a 32208. I have lots of HF stuff but I'll be danged if i can remembeer the stock number of any of them.

I gather its a tool of some sort...

[jonmulzer]

Bandsaw. He has posted other threads about it lately including the purchase and such where it was told what it was or I would not have known either.

[dbhost]

Sorry, my bad...

HF item 332208 4 speed band saw. There are a bunch of old threads about this, with missing pics... that say things like look at the pic...

I have it pretty much figured out, but the two metal pieces, actually one now. I figured out where the U shaped one goes from a two year old post found using the search feature... Some user that does not appear to be active any more named GaryA posted up a pic which showed where it should be...

There us now just an L shaped stamped sheetmetal piece that I need to figure out where it goes...

The instructions / photos from the HF assembly manual simply won't work. I guess there was a production change or something... The pics show the motor brackets backwards, the lower guide with mounting bosses cast in where there are none etc...

I figure there had to be some production change with no documentation change...

Currently active members Messmaker, Uncle Cracker, and John Hunter have this saw...

[leehljp]

Don't know if this will help or not - but which manual do you have? The printed one that came with it, or the online downloadable one?

In one previous order for some air compressor parts, I noted minor differences in the DL manual versus the original hard copy received with the product.

[dbhost]

Both. The diagrams in the downloadable manual are certainly clearer. Neither makes any mention of the particular stamped steel part I am talking about. And the saw appears to work fine without it... At least in the sections that say bolt this piece here and adjust this...

Looking at the exploded assembly diagram, I think the part in question is #84, Lower Gude Cover. I am starting to think it is some sort of piece that is supposed to protect the user from the blade just below the table. If the manual is to be believed, it installs between the lower wheel guard and the post that holds the whole thing together. Or does it go to the outside?

Those whole lament the instructions from HF on this saw are NOT exaggerating... Now I know why this saw is so cheap. You need a PHD in Chinglish to actually use the assembly manual...

[BobSch]

I heard of one guy who took his camera to the local HF and shot about twenty pics of the floor model, hoping that they'd help augment the written instructions. Only to find out the HF people had assembled it wrong!

[dbhost]

According to the blow up diagram the piece appears to go over the stud shown in the pic (not my saw, GaryA's pic). I don't see how it can fit though with the DC chute in place...

[AlanWS]

It's probably easiest to assemble if you don't have the manual, and just look at the parts while thinking about what you want the tool to do. If I recall correctly, the black sheet metal parts should go in the scrap bin. HF seems to think the U-shaped one should be used to protect you from the top of the guidepost, as seen in this image from their site:

[dbhost]

Yeah, I am wondering about that. Good lord knows that nice smooth round post is much more dangerous than the sharp unfinished edges of the stamped metal guard... :-P

I'll take a band saw, an order of egg rolls, and an order of Kung Pao Chicken extra spicy please...

[messmaker]

I am pretty sure that I ended up with an extra piece when I put mine together. That's been 4 years. I have never needed it.

[dbhost]

I am pretty sure that I ended up with an extra piece when I put mine together. That's been 4 years. I have never needed it.

I talked with the HF people last night. They had no clue what that was for. I know how the diagram shows it lining up, but there is no way in Houston that it will fit there! I'm leaving it off. I may take the U shaped shield off the guide bar as well. It protects nothing, and only serves to provide more sharp edges to cut myself on.

I have the saw together, moved to where I want it, the stand levelled since the floor isn't, the blade tracking center, and everything lined up. The cosmoline has been stripped off the table thanks to a can of CRC Brakleen (Auto Brake Cleaner, leaves no residue), which was followed up by thus far, 2 coats of Johnsons Paste Wax. I think I need about two more to get the finish I want... The adjustments are going to change once the riser block kit comes in. I am planning the following upgrades for this saw.

#1. HF Riser Block Kit. (They have them, in stock.)
#2. Olson Pro, or Timberwolf blades.
#3. Olson Cool Blocks.
#4. Shop Built re sawing jig like the one in the Wood Magazine youtube video.
#5. Link belts. I will try at first to keep the pulley setup with link belts. I have heard from other users the low power problem has been one of the V belt slipping, and not a reduction problem. At least one user has converted his 4 speed into a single speed by bypassing the center pulley and going large pulley to large pulley... Not something I want to try at first...

Honestly, the assembly of this saw was kind of fun... And I am proud of myself for figuring out some of the stupid gotchas about this particular saw that the documentation didn't bother covering...

[LarryG]

... 2 coats of Johnsons Paste Wax. I think I need about two more to get the finish I want.

The molecular properties of wax are such that it doesn't "build", and subsequent coats don't bond well to previous ones. The only reason to apply a second coat is to ensure you didn't miss any spots with the first one.

[Larryl]

The molecular properties of wax are such that it doesn't "build", and subsequent coats don't bond well to previous ones. The only reason to apply a second coat is to ensure you didn't miss any spots with the first one.

Thanks, you just saved me a lot of unnessessary work!