Do You Own a Dado Blade?

[rjwaldren]

I just picked up the SD206 recently onsale at Amazon. I've just redone some work that I originally cut with multiple passs with and ATB blade. It's beautiful on good lumber and MDF - But barely better than just making multiple passes with a regular blade on construction lumber. I all fairness it was a lot easier to clean up the groove.

[nickg]

I like using my stacked dado set on the radial arm saw (cross cuts only!!)

I like using the RAS because I can see the cut lines better. I've used the dado on the table saw too, but with the TS you're of course cutting from the bottom. If I only have a few dado cuts to make and don't want to hassle with mounting the stacked set, I'll just make multiple passes with the regular blade and 'nibble' out the slot.

[reddog552]

Dado

I have a Freud 6" stacked set and an old Craftsman wobble blade.Ive used both many times,both in a BT3000 and a Craftsman RAS,have had good results with both. Trashed a 10' sheet of maple 3/4" ply using a router cutting a back of a china cabinet,think my speed was too high. what speed should you be running for3/4" bit? I also think the size of the sheet scred me up,couldnt move across it in fluid way.I think I should have asked for some help and done it on the table saw.

[docrowan]

I have the Delta 35-530 6 inch. I haven't used it much, but my shop time is extremely limited. I would definitely replace it if lost or stolen.

[Andrew Benedetto]

Old CM 100 RAS dado dedicated SD508.

[jhart]

I generally prefer to use the router. If lost, broken or missing, I would not replace it. Have the Avenger 6" that I bought on sale for $30.00. So far, Have used it 3 times in about 4 years. I think it is much easier to set up the router. Have built a couple of jigsand seems to make pretty good dados.

[rnelson0]

A lot of talk about people using routers for through dado cuts. Do you use them for making tenons as well?

[LCHIEN]

A lot of talk about people using routers for through dado cuts. Do you use them for making tenons as well?

"Through dado"???
by definition a dado is a non-thru cut.

Do you mean, like, slots?

[milanuk]

I think he meant 'stopped dado'...

[rnelson0]

"Through dado"???
by definition a dado is a non-thru cut.

You can cut your dado through the entire length or it can be stopped on one or both sides. Wikipedia tells me I'm using the correct lingo anyway.

[footprintsinconc]

just used my dado stack for the 2nd time to cut some handles (curved recess) into a pair of doors (they slide in grooves that i cut with my router). the 1st time, i dont even remember what i used it for.

[dkerfoot]

Trashed a 10' sheet of maple 3/4" ply using a router cutting a back of a china cabinet,think my speed was too high. what speed should you be running for3/4" bit?

I'd make two suggestions on this:

1. Use the router hand-held for a sheet this large. Build a "saw board" and use it. Lot's of references if you google it, here is one: http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm What I did is build a two-sided saw board. One side is for my circular saw, the other is for my router with my favorite dado bit. Very helpful for dealing with sheet goods of all kinds.
2. Don't try it in a single pass. Routers are much happier "nibbling" rather than hogging out huge quantities of wood in a single pass.

[dbhost]

I've got a Skil Model 79600 6" Dado. I'm just learning to use it. I like the dado blades a lot, but not sure I like the Skil set. It's the Same thing as the Vermont American and leaves a pretty rough bottom. I have been using it to cut half laps into 2x4s for an assembly bench project for the shop. The chippers simply don't overlap quite right and leave funny high spots.

I have found that a cursory pass with 40 grit on a sander, or in a slot, 40 grit on the end of a stick will sand them smooth with no real hassle, but I don't feel I should HAVE to do this...

The only other use I have ever done with a Dado setup was with this same one, cutting 1/2" x 1/2" x16" slots in 1" thick material... I "nibbled up" meaning I did the cut in 2 passes, first at 1/4", then at 1/2" deep...

If it were lost or stolen, I would replace it with a Freud SD206, or the Avenger 6 incher...

[JimD]

I have a Freud "Pro" set, the least expensive one, that I use regularly. I also have a HF set that sits in a drawer, an old Vermont American steel set that doesn't get used, and a wobble blade that will cut a flat bottomed dado 3/4 inch wide (due to the grind) that gets pulled out once in awhile (if I was brighter I would set it for the slightly under 3/4 plywood and just leave it at that setting and use it for that).

I have used routers but I do not like to buy new router bits for every project - the amount of dados I do wears out bits too fast to do it with the router. I also do not love listening to the router scream. I prefer the mellower sound of the BT3100. I don't think it takes much longer to put the dado set into the BT3100 than it takes to put the bit in the router table.

Jim

[ksum]

I picked up a Dadonator when I started my cabijnets project and am glad I did. I have had to cut tongues in plywood panels that took 2 passes with the dado blade. Can't imagine what a router would have done. Why so wide? I have cherry panels with 1" wide purpleheart trim, then the hardwood case. Since everything is flush, I needed to cut 1.5" wide sections off the edge of the plywood. 1" to glue the trim down to, and 1/2" to go in the groove and hold it all together. I went the extra for the Dadonator not becuase I like the name, but for the flat bottom it cuts. I also used it for the groves/dados in the rails stiles, etc to hold the plywood in place. I am very glad I got it. I have cut cherry and maple like it was butter. My other choices would have been multiple router passes, or, for the panels, 2 cuts for each, one with 1/2" plywood on edge to try and get an accurate cut 1/5" deep. I don't think so...

Karl