i've started my diy table saw

[blame]

i'm taking the plunge
i found plans for a diy table saw

http://www.vintageprojects.com/power.../table-saw.pdf

i started building the frame tonight i figured 32"x32" for the frame. the saws table top will be 36"x36" and i'll be using a 12" blade instead of a 10" blade should give me 4" depth of cut (appoxmently) i wont be able to do beveled rip cuts but i've never used them anyway
if i need to miter something i have my 10" miter saw and a miter lock bit for my router table so mostly what i do is rip and cross cuts with my table saw anyway

for the fence i plan on using a T-square style fence like this one
http://joe.emenaker.com/Table-Saw Fence/Building Your Own T-Square Style Table-Saw Fence.htm

i also plan on building a couple of small drawers and a full cabinet with dust collection
i havent worked out all the details yet but i will work on them as i go

my questions are does anybody have a 12" cabinet saw? what is the blade shaft size?
what is the table size ? your max depth of cut? what style of fence does it use ?
would you use a wood top or would it be worth finding a steel top to use? i like the idea of the wood top.
what size motor does it use? i was thinking 3 hp 230V but i also have access to a 5 hp 230v, there scraping them out at work by the dozens and there perfectly good motors i could pick them up for scrap price.

the arbor mandrel will be made from AL and use dual needle roller bearings and a hardened shaft, size will depend on the blade i choose i still need to pick one up.

is there any thing else i'm over looking?

thanks
blame

[blame]

heres the complete link to the table T-square fence
http://http://joe.emenaker.com/Table...-Saw Fence.htm

[LCHIEN]

"Blade shaft" is properly called an arbor.

For 12" saws it's generally a 1" arbor size, but I think there are a very few odd ones that use 5/8" if I recall.

Here's a link to the Forrest blade site, they list the popular sized blades and the corresponding arbor holes that put in them.
http://www.forrestblades.com/woodworker_2.htm

[Knottscott]

I've got no help to offer but I think this is a really cool project. Good luck with it, and keep us posted!

[Stytooner]

Just a few items. First, don't wear a necktie in the shop like the illustration showed.
Secondly, consider adding a riving knife behind the blade. It should be easy enough to do even with the way the blade swings up into position. This will take some precise bracket work, but will be worthwhile.
When you locate a motor, make sure it is single phase. Do the calculations needed to find the blade arbor speed. Don't over speed any part of the drive system or the blade.
Since you are wanting a 12" blade, consider going with a couple cast iron pillow blocks. I think I would like the beef they provide over any aluminum mount. These are more forgiving from a tad of misalignment.
Remember that most saw arbors use a fine thread left hand thread to mount the blade. You could use right hand thread with a double nut system, but the left hand is safer.
Just some things to consider.

[thiggy]

I think if you will check most reference material from the '30s and '40s such as Popular Mechanics, Popular Science, et.al., you will find that a tie and white shirt are required attire for any proper wood/machine shop.

[cgallery]

If the saw won't beven, you could put the motor under the blade rather than in back of it. That may improve the weight distribution of the saw and reduce the footprint.

[Thom2]

Looking at the plans, I don't have any issues with this design if you stick with a 10" blade and 1/2hp motor like they call for. I've seen my grandfather make several TS's out of anything from sewing machine motors to probably 1/3-1/2hp with probably no more than 8" blades.

I REALLY have to question the idea of bolting a 3hp or 5hp to this contraption, coupled with a blade that is designed to be run on only the most robust of cabinet saws.

I'm by no means saying it can't be done, but I would think this thru VERY carefully. A 3hp motor has the capability to tear up some pretty substantial machines, let alone something like this. I'd really hate to see what would happen if that thing grenaded when you were stuffin' a 4x4 into it.

Just my 2 cents

[AlanWS]

If you can find Fine Woodworking #41 from July/Aug 1983, there is an article by Galen Winchip on building a tablesaw largely from wood. It was a solid design with a sliding table. It might be worthwhile to look at that design as well.

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...fw_toc_041.asp

[LCHIEN]

Looking at the plans, I don't have any issues with this design if you stick with a 10" blade and 1/2hp motor like they call for. I've seen my grandfather make several TS's out of anything from sewing machine motors to probably 1/3-1/2hp with probably no more than 8" blades.

I REALLY have to question the idea of bolting a 3hp or 5hp to this contraption, coupled with a blade that is designed to be run on only the most robust of cabinet saws.

I'm by no means saying it can't be done, but I would think this thru VERY carefully. A 3hp motor has the capability to tear up some pretty substantial machines, let alone something like this. I'd really hate to see what would happen if that thing grenaded when you were stuffin' a 4x4 into it.

Just my 2 cents

Thom raises some good points here.

[ragswl4]

Thom raises some good points here.

I strongly second Thom and Loring's concerns. Let me add mine; the design is for a 1/2 HP motor and using a 3 to 5 HP motor seems to greatly exceed whatever engineering went into that design. I would not think that 3 layers of plywood would withstand the starting torque of a 3 HP motor for very many start ups, if at all. Also not sure that an aluminum arbor would have the strength to handle the torque of a motor that large when cutting.

Please be careful with this project from the 1940s or 50s. We didn't have OSHA back then so we were a lot more adventurous. Good Luck.

[JoeyGee]

I admire your gumption, and can understand your motivation, but that type of project scares me. I get nervous using my TS, which has been precisely engineered and tested. I'm not doubting your skills and attention to safety, it's just not my cup of tea.

I know this is the type of setup was used for years before we had a fancy schmancy factory built saws, but I still prefer my factory built machine.

I could probably make my own toilet paper, but I would rather buy it

Again, no offense. Good luck, I look forward to seeing your results.

[cgallery]

I wouldn't hesitate to build one of these with a 1-1/2 HP motor. Probably no larger than that. And I would would mount the motor in the center of the base with a hinged mount (like my Inca tools use).

[blame]

thank you for your concern it makes me feel really good . i feel you guys have genuine concern for me thank you

"Blade shaft" is properly called an arbor.

For 12" saws it's generally a 1" arbor size, but I think there are a very few odd ones that use 5/8" if I recall.

Here's a link to the Forrest blade site, they list the popular sized blades and the corresponding arbor holes that put in them.

thanks for the link i checked it out i wouldnt mind having the 16" 40T woodworker II blade would be sweet

I've got no help to offer but I think this is a really cool project. Good luck with it, and keep us posted!

will do, i'll try to get some pics as soon as i get the grinding done on the base maybe later tonight

Just a few items. First, don't wear a necktie in the shop like the illustration showed.
Secondly, consider adding a riving knife behind the blade. It should be easy enough to do even with the way the blade swings up into position. This will take some precise bracket work, but will be worthwhile.
When you locate a motor, make sure it is single phase. Do the calculations needed to find the blade arbor speed. Don't over speed any part of the drive system or the blade.
Since you are wanting a 12" blade, consider going with a couple cast iron pillow blocks. I think I would like the beef they provide over any aluminum mount. These are more forgiving from a tad of misalignment.
Remember that most saw arbors use a fine thread left hand thread to mount the blade. You could use right hand thread with a double nut system, but the left hand is safer.
Just some things to consider.

LOL not much for ties LOL
the riving knife has been something i've been considering adding but wanted to do some research first on ideas. well after some consideration about the motor sizes and the posted concerns i'm going to scale it back down to a 10" blade and 1 HP motor just to try it out and work my way up to the 12" blade. i found in my shop a couple 40T 10" sawblades with a 1" arbor hole so i'm still going to cast the arbor mandrel myself and use needle roller bearings ( i need to check out 1" ID bearings). one of the reasons for wanting to build my own arbor mandrel is i cant get a premade one with needle bearings.
as far as the threading of the nut it depends on which side of the blade the arbor mandrel is located for which hand the treads are cut i'm in the process of buying a metal lathe and tooling so i'll be able to make most of the parts i need from raw stock.

If the saw won't bevel, you could put the motor under the blade rather than in back of it. That may improve the weight distribution of the saw and reduce the footprint.

i thought i might try that just to make the DC preform better. that would close up a pretty big hole in the back of the saw but i'm worried about the amount of dust exposed to the motors bearings. the roller bearing in the arbor mandrel will be the sealed type.

Looking at the plans, I don't have any issues with this design if you stick with a 10" blade and 1/2hp motor like they call for. I've seen my grandfather make several TS's out of anything from sewing machine motors to probably 1/3-1/2hp with probably no more than 8" blades.

I REALLY have to question the idea of bolting a 3hp or 5hp to this contraption, coupled with a blade that is designed to be run on only the most robust of cabinet saws.

I'm by no means saying it can't be done, but I would think this thru VERY carefully. A 3hp motor has the capability to tear up some pretty substantial machines, let alone something like this. I'd really hate to see what would happen if that thing grenaded when you were stuffin' a 4x4 into it.

Just my 2 cents

thom2 and loring you have raised some very good concerns for me. some things i didnt realize in my excitement to make this tablesaw and after contemplating the design and componets i'm using. i've decided to back down on the hp and the go to a 10" blade but i will be building a 12" 3HP table saw in the future after i have seen how the 10" does.

thank you for your insight into my blindsight

If you can find Fine Woodworking #41 from July/Aug 1983, there is an article by Galen Winchip on building a tablesaw largely from wood. It was a solid design with a sliding table. It might be worthwhile to look at that design as well.

hey thanks alan i see if i can find a copy and check out there plans

I strongly second Thom and Loring's concerns. Let me add mine; the design is for a 1/2 HP motor and using a 3 to 5 HP motor seems to greatly exceed whatever engineering went into that design. I would not think that 3 layers of plywood would withstand the starting torque of a 3 HP motor for very many start ups, if at all. Also not sure that an aluminum arbor would have the strength to handle the torque of a motor that large when cutting.

Please be careful with this project from the 1940s or 50s. We didn't have OSHA back then so we were a lot more adventurous. Good Luck.

hey rags thank you for your concern like i stated above i was blindsighted by my eagerness to build the tablesaw but the pivoted base for the motor and mandrel is constructed from 3 layers of 13/16" hardwood for a total of 2 7/16" thick.
i'm planing on making it from 1" osage orange. hedge is one of the toughest hardwood spec. out there. as to your other concern of the arbor being made from aluimum i'm not totally sure about it either. i'll just have to do some testing to see if the needle bearing are as good as i hope hoping for the best

blame

[blame]

I wouldn't hesitate to build one of these with a 1-1/2 HP motor. Probably no larger than that. And I would would mount the motor in the center of the base with a hinged mount (like my Inca tools use).

got any pics cgallery