What brand blade is in your TS right now?

[bullethead1964]

Forrest WW II 30 tooth....

Before that it was Freud Combo blades, 40-50 tooth

[pbui3057]

I just put in a Dewalt DW3215PT. I must say I am impressed so far but then again, it's just a new sharp blade and I haven't cut that much with it yet. I had a Freud D1060x in it before and it cut fine. It was nearing the end of it's life before a sharpening so I got this blade instead. Seems to cut the same. I also have the stock blade but I think it's dull as dirt. I need to see if someone locally sharpens the blades. I don't really see myself sending it off to be sharpened when there are alternatives in the same price range.

[milanuk]

At the moment... a Freud thin kerf rip blade. It's amazing to see this little saw (BT-3100) plow through 8/4 cherry with little to no problem (have to slow the feed speed just a bit, but keep it fast enough to avoid any burning). Once I get the leg blanks glued up for my platform bed project, we'll get the real test... knocking everything down to 3-1/8 to 3-1/4" or so for final dimensioning with the jointer and planer to 3" square.

Most of my day-in-day-out utility cutting (plywood, oak, pine, etc.) is done using the original stock blade. It's in need of sharpening, though. Last time I got away with cleaning it really good using the Rockler saw-n-bit cleaning system... but this time I think it's actually going to have to be sharpened (or just get a new one). Freud Diablo combo blades are cheap enough that it's kind of tough to justify sharpening a generic combo blade - nobody local to do it, have to ship it off, etc.

[toolguy1000]

i have the craftsman rip blade reviewed in a tool test in a popular WW mag. got it on sale at 1/2 off and it is a great blade. cost arouond $35 on sale.

[Jim Frye]

Aways a Freud of some kind.

What brand blade is presently in your saw?

I have several Freud blades and change frequently depending on task at hand. I have two of the OEM Ryobi 36T combo blades, two F40 40T combo blades, a thin kerf teflon 24T glue rip blade, and a thin kerf teflon 80T cross cut blade. I also have an 8" Super Dado set. All work just wonderfully in the fifteen year old BT3000 and the newer BT3100.

I clicked "Other". I just set-up my BT3100-1 earlier this year and actually haven't put that much wood with it yet. My BT was fitted with the "chinese" look-alike to (what I have read) what was a "Freud" blade.

It actually makes a pretty nice cut, so far. When I start building the new fireplace surround (mantal, side cabinets, etc.), I probably go with a Freud blade that would be designed for such a project. (Don't know the blade model number yet.)

CWS

I too had the Chinese look alike blade in my Ryobi BT3100 when I purchased it over a year ago. I found it to be a decent blade for what little use I gave it. However, in the last week or so, I have started a kitchen renovation in my home, and I decided to build to kitchen cupboards. The look-a-like Chinese wasn't cutting it (pardon the pun) as it would cause the motor to act under powered. I removed the stock Chinese blade, and purchased a 50 tooth Freud chrome plated blade, and installed it. The difference in quality was above and beyond what I expected. The same piece of wood that was giving the motor of the table saw a hard time, was now cutting through it like a hot knife through butter, which resulted in the motor hardly going down in RPM's while ripping. So, for those who wonder if there is a difference between the look-a-like Chinese blade and the actual Freud blade that use to come stock with the BT3XXX, there is no way any comparison between the two.

I picked up the Oshlun 40 T from Brian. It is not a bad blade and very comparable to the Steel City 40 T they put on thier saw under the name Steel City. I did notice the package says.. made in China and so is the SC blade. It is produced by Great Blade there I believe and I highly suspect that the Oshlun may be also.

Brian was out of office when I called and a lady took the call. I was going to ask who made it but... if he wasn't there... he wasn't there. Regardless.. not a bad value for $25 and not a bad buy at all for those on a budget or as a back up blade. I have 4 40 T and this point.. 2 20 T rips and two 24 T rips.. With my local sharpner about 4 miles away... that should do me for well.... close to eternity.

Regards to the blade runner...

[Knottscott]

Hi Sarge - Haven't tried any of the Amana 40T blades....I'm assuming the Prestige is the one you're looking at. That one's on my radar....waiting for one of those crazy price drops. Holbren used to carry Amana, but I think he dropped them...he might still have a lead though...worth asking him.

The only observations I can offer as a comparison between the two is that both have 40T, both names start with a vowel, and one is twice the price....duzzat help?!

I swear my 24T blades cut better than that CMT 40T...the Oshlun was much better. Disappointing...I really liked the bright orange color!

Do you know of the DML blades are Dimar? I've got one of those DML Golden Eagle 60T ATB blades to try.[/QUOTE]

I don't as I just heard of them recently. You might go over to KNOTS and send an e-mail to David Ring in Israel. He strickly uses Dimar in his WW business and is a nice guy. He has e-mailed me several times and we have exchanged information.

BTW.. forgot to mention it yesterday but... I totally agee about the CMT blades above 24 T. I have two 24 T CMT's and they are pretty good up to 1 1/2"... but I used a CMT at IWF (50 T or 60 T) and I didn't care for it at all. I love their router bits and hollow mortise chisels and the 24 T is good but... I will personally avoid the over 24 T. For that matter I am pretty much sold on my two Amana 20 T Euro rippers.

Which brings up another question.. have you used the Amana 40 T?.. Amazon has it for around $58 on sale with free shipping and www.carbide.com has it for $48 on special now. I wonder how it compares to the Oshland at $25?

Always curious as you seem to be...

[Knottscott]

[quote=SARGE..g-47;401194]

No problem Sarge. I remember that fiasco but failed to make the connection with his name! You've got me thinking twice before I reference that article again though!

BTW.. did you test that Oshland 40 T yet? If so... I do trust your reviews or thoughts. The price is right for sure. I actually love the General Super you sold me after testing. It is an excellent blade. The Super General I just added is great also but I will use it in specific task and not a standard TS blade as I do the regular General.

With that said I do switch off to the Amano 20 T Euro edition for about all ripping. Did you get the standard Amana 10 T or the Amana 20 T Euro as both are made by Dimar in Isareal I believe. But.. if the Oshland is a blade as good as the standard General... I would consider it in the future. Do you know what hook angles the ATB are on the Oshland?

Sorry again... lot of questions as I'm waiting for 3 separate glue-ups to dry and my mind is going in several directions with curiousity.

Regards...

Sarge, No problem with the questions....I did try the 40T Oshlun and think it's pretty good....excellent for the price. I can't go as far as to say it'll hang with a Infinity General, but nor is it that far behind. If I paid $50, I'd think it was a pretty good blade, at $25, it's a great blade! Not sure of the hook angle but it's pretty steep....likely 15-20°. The top bevel appears to be in the range of 10-20°. The design is pretty traditional for a 40T GP blade. Holbren can ship you one for just under $23 with "BT310" code....copper silencers, full kerf, heavy plate, C4 carbide, lots of it....how do you beat that?

My Amana is the 20T. It's next on my list to try out.

Do you know of the DML blades are Dimar? I've got one of those DML Golden Eagle 60T ATB blades to try.

[QUOTE=Knottscott;401167]No problem Sarge. I remember that fiasco but failed to make the connection with his name! You've got me thinking twice before I reference that article again though!

BTW.. did you test that Oshland 40 T yet? If so... I do trust your reviews or thoughts. The price is right for sure. I actually love the General Super you sold me after testing. It is an excellent blade. The Super General I just added is great also but I will use it in specific task and not a standard TS blade as I do the regular General.

With that said I do switch off to the Amano 20 T Euro edition for about all ripping. Did you get the standard Amana 10 T or the Amana 20 T Euro as both are made by Dimar in Isareal I believe. But.. if the Oshland is a blade as good as the standard General... I would consider it in the future. Do you know what hook angles the ATB are on the Oshland?

Sorry again... lot of questions as I'm waiting for 3 separate glue-ups to dry and my mind is going in several directions with curiousity.

Regards...

[dbhost]

Yeah, I like the 40T. I rarely swap blades unless the 40T is getting dirty, or I am cutting Melamine. That stuff chips too easily...

[Knottscott]

...Roland Johnson did a review of the Steel City 18" BS when it first came out for FWW mag. The article was titled... Steel City 18" BS Has Major Flaws.....Sorry for the rant Scott.. I just have to grit my teeth a bit when I hear or see the words Roland Johnson.. Expert based on whose standards is the question I would ask?

No problem Sarge. I remember that fiasco but failed to make the connection with his name! You've got me thinking twice before I reference that article again though!

Bottom line as far as this thread goes...a good saw with low runout should have no issues spinning a high quality thin kerf blade.

DBHost - The original stock BT blade was pretty good. It was an unusual 36T FTG blade with a positive hook angle made by Freud. I've tried that blade but haven't done head to head with it vs the Diablo 40T, but I suspect your Diablo is at least as good at crosscutting and will likely have a smoother rip cut too.

[dbhost]

I have changed saws since I originally posted, and blades as well...

Currently I have a...

Freud Diablo D1040A 40T General Purpose in the saw.

Ready to go in the saw...
Freud Diablo D1024X 24T Ripping Blade
Freud Diablo D1080X 80T ultra Finishing blade.
Oshlun SDS-0630 6" Dado Stack.

Unfortunately my new to me BT did not come with the OEM blade...

[QUOTE=Knottscott;401033]Interesting....Roland Johnson of Fine Woodworking Mag recently did a comparison that found thin kerf blades to be measurably comparable to full kerf blades in cut qualty, and easier for the motor to spin because they take 25% less material. American WWer did an article supporting TK blades in issue #118 (Nov 2006).

Roland Johnson did a review of the Steel City 18" BS when it first came out for FWW mag. The article was titled... Steel City 18" BS Has Major Flaws.

He found the table to be .018 out of flat with the table pin out. He reported the micro-adjusttable support rod for the guides was bent and it wouldn't re-saw straight. That's a pretty strong and DAMAGING article title when....

Anyone that has been around band-saws knows you don't measure table flatness with the pin out. It was ground flat at the factory with the pin "IN" and if you pull the pin out.. the cast iron table will flex where the blade split is.

Pete Bradley and I jumped his case on the FWW forum about the pin. FWW contacted him and found out he took the BS off the crate and tested as he had a deadline to meet. He did not adjust the BS at all. As it turns out the guide bar problem could have been remedied in about 30 seconds by loosening 4 allen head bolts fully visible on the right side of the upper cabinet. It wasn't bent at all.. just needed adjustment.

An apology letter to Steel City was printed in fine print in the Editors mail which very few read. Steel City ask for a rebuttal article to counter the BOLD one that originally appeared.... "Steel City BS Has Major Flaws" as this was a new company at the time and you know how people believe everything they see printed in a review by the so-called EXPERT. It didn't happen as the article and fine print apology stood. They stood behind their EXPERT by basically sweeping the matter under the rug instead of cleaning it up properly.

I won't mention another review of another manufactures spindle sander and the way Roland Johnson came up with deflection.. A little complicated to explain here but... if you have not noticed Steel City doesn't advertise in FWW mag until a recent Box Building Contest where a Granite top TS will be given away.. There is your reason.

Take the other review for what it's worth on the TK. I used one in my BT3 when I had it with a stiffner which gave up depth. But.. in hardwoods I did find it to deflect as I work with 2" and over often. The saw just wouldn't handle that without the stiffner and you had to take it off to get the gullet above the stock.

But... I don't have great faith in any Roland Johnson review since that article was written. Nothing against him personally but.. EXPERTS aren't always Experts IMO and any review is subject to how it was preformed. The best review IMO is the one you do yourself comparing apple to apples.

Sorry for the rant Scott.. I just have to grit my teeth a bit when I hear or see the words Roland Johnson.. Expert based on whose standards is the question I would ask?