New Shop in the Works

[poolhound]

Lumber Storage - DONE!

This weekend much to the happiness of LOML the pile of lumber that has been sitting under a tarp in the backyard made its way into the new lumber storage attached to my shop. I still have to finish the roof but that's pretty quick and should be all done next weekend. The front part of this attached structure will house my DC and thats really the last part needing attention. The DC portion will have solid siding and doors while the lumber area will be covered in tarps attached with bungees and industrial Velcro. This will provide more than enough protection and allow for easy access.

[poolhound]

Jim, Yes and No.

It is the articulated arm Bosch but I think its the 12" version that will x-cut 14". I have the 10" version and I believe it has a 12" x-cut capcity. Only had it a short while so still have to take it through its paces and check out alignment etc but so far I love it.

Yes it can go hard up against a wall (nearly) as that is the benefit of this design, You only need to leave a small gap to allow for the arc when you rotate to the left or right.

Thanks for the extension ideas. Unfortunately I cant add anything on the floor to the left as that's where my jointer is located. Its on a mobile base and moves easily when needed. I just need to figure out the optimal way to build an extension that can be used when needed and does not get in the way at all other times.

Jon,

Is that the articulated arm Bosch that crosscuts up to about 14 inches? If so, can it really be that close to the wall? That looks pretty close, do you know the distance?

Jim

[JimD]

Jon,

Is that the articulated arm Bosch that crosscuts up to about 14 inches? If so, can it really be that close to the wall? That looks pretty close, do you know the distance?

You can do support to the left several ways. A fold up support is one way but I've also used a bolt on support supported by aluminum angle iron with hanger bolts and wing nuts. For my future crosscut bench I am planning on using flip up stops like Paulk has on the complete shop setup. Nothing projects above the workbench surface. I had a more typical fence on my last setup and I couldn't really use the surface for much other than crosscutting. I am hoping keeping the stops flush will make the surface more usable. If you use non-projecting flip stops, you could even have another cabinet to the left and just incorporate the wooden track for the stops in the other cabinet.

Jim

[capncarl]

The photo of my Hitachi hood is after cutting a lot of wood. No telling how much sawdust was pulled into the collector. Very little gets thrown out and what does usually stays on the table, little reaches the floor. Before I built the hood the window and wall behind the saw looked like a piece of Osb, and that was with the vacuum cleaner hooked up to the saw.
capncarl

[dbhost]

The dust hood I built for my HF slider keeps the dust IN the hood, but pickup at the dust port is less than spectacular... I mean it helps, a LOT but miter saws spew an obnoxious amount of sawdust very quickly...

[capncarl]

The Hitachi does have the 2 1/2" vac hose hooked to its connection that collects dust from behind the blade and the guard area. The hood enclosure has a 4" straight from the dust collector with a 2 1/2" "y". While it does not have the suction that the vacuum cleaner provided it has a lot more cfm with the dust collector and keeps a lot out of the room.
capncarl

[poolhound]

Does your Hitachi setup actually have a DC hose attached to the saw or are you relying on just that grill area behind the saw?

The Bosch does have a pretty efficient direct hookup. the little I have used it so far in building the bench showed it to work pretty well. I now have a variety of things to build so will know more in a week or two.

Don't think you are going to like that, unless that Bosch handles saw dust better than I think. Photo of my Hitachi in its enclosure. It has clear curtains in the front that also helps keeps dust in, but you can see what is in front of the saw. Before the enclosure this mess was all over the shop.
capncarl

[capncarl]

Don't think you are going to like that, unless that Bosch handles saw dust better than I think. Photo of my Hitachi in its enclosure. It has clear curtains in the front that also helps keeps dust in, but you can see what is in front of the saw. Before the enclosure this mess was all over the shop.
capncarl

[poolhound]

Miter bench done - nearly

Last weekend I managed to finish the miter bench (ish). Got the top on and included a dust port for the DC under the saw. Hopefully this plus the built in dust port will keep the mess at bay somewhat.

As you can see I still need to trim out the top and make some extension tables but at least it is now functional and I can load up the lower storage which in turn means I can begin work on other parts of the new shop.

The bench is just over 7' with approx 5' right of the blade and 2' left (on the tabletop). There is actually about 9' of space left of the blade inside the shop and I plan to add a flip up extension on the left side of the cabinet. If anybody else has made something similar I would appreciate any tips or ideas.

[JimD]

Loring,

You are right that I have to be careful about two things on at once. I put the DC on the light circuit. It draws about 10A and the lights draw an amp so I am OK on a 15A circuit. On the other 20A circuit I do everything else. I use the compressor when I am assembling things so I am not using the table saw and other big tools when it is running. It's not so big I can't use a sander or something. I do not remember tripping my 20A breaker. It really works OK for me.

Another thing I do not do is heat or cool the shop. If I did, I would need another circuit. If I had a bigger DC, I would need a bigger circuit. I have a few empty spaces in the new panel I had installed so I can expand if I need to. But I went 15 years in the last shop with the same amount of electricity I have in this one.

Jim

[capncarl]

The plano boxes are all full and I need more. I keep drill bits in 3, refill the indexes when necessary, one for spare wrenches, sockets etc, keeps the tool boxes neat not having drawers full of spares. When you think about all the fasteners you have in a shop, different sizes, lengths and metals of wood screws, dryswall screws, lag bolts, carrage bolts and all the deck screws, it takes up about 8 boxes. Buying fasteners at the big box stores is really expensive. I like to buy fasteners in bulk when I can. There is a shop in a Dothan Ala flea market that sells fasteners by the pound that I buy square drive round head and flat head square drive screws like Kreg screws, really cheap. One trip I got carried away and spent $90 on a lot of different fasteners. It took 3 people to carry my purchases to the car!

[poolhound]

That is one heck of a lot of storage I cant even begin to guess what could be in so many boxes. You have a better stash than Ace Hardware

I just picked up these that are $9.88 for a 2 pack at HD. They are ~11x15 and and HD says they have 15 compartments but unless they have some new math I count 17. Anyway 10 have dividers that can be removed to make them bigger.

Dont know if any of you guys like Gelato (not great if you are supposed to be dieting but it is better than ice cream) but this brand (Talenti) is great and the pots are great storage when empty as they are approx 3.5"dia and 4" high with a screw lid and stack easily.

Poolhound, more photos of the storage unit, maybe it is night time down under and the photos will right side up. For some reason is cant get but one to post so I'll do several replys
Photo of left side Plano rack swinging out. Lots behind rack.

[LCHIEN]

I could put in more outlets pretty quickly with the stud walls open but I'm managing by running an extension cord to each machine I need as I need it. If I had the tools arranged well, it would actually be worse, I think. Because everything is a mess, the plugging and unplugging kind of fits.

I only had one 20A for tools and one 15A for the lights and the DC in my old shop. I built several rooms full of furniture in that shop and was never limited by the power. I do not have a tool that needs more than 20A and I only use one tool at a time. The 15A light circuit limits me to a little DC but I only have a 1 hp Delta. My lights only use about 1 amp (8 13W CFLs). The only thing that might drive me to run another circuit would be a bigger DC - at least that I can think of now. And I don't plan a bigger DC.

...

You need more dedicated circuits/outlets for things that are on or may cycle on and off while you use your power tools.

The things that come to mind needing a seperate circuit are
1. Air compressor if you have one, a 2 HPish one will take 15-20 Amps running and may come on at any time
2. DC if you have one, it always draws max power unless you have the air blocked off... a 2 HP one will draw 15 HP all the time it runs and should be running when you run your big tools.
3. Circuit for AC and electric heaters. You probably won't be running both at once so one circuit will be enough for smaller units.
4. You may want a circuit for the lights and incidental stuff... radio, chargers, (Fridge?) Air cleaner, etc.
5. Finally one to power all your freestanding tools (assuming they are 120V.)

[jussi]

I've bought a couple of these and so far I like them. They stay tight against the wall, easily see what's in them, dust free, and items won't fall out if you drop them.

http://t.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Cl...0382/100338091

[JimD]

Mike,

Have you seen this post at sawmillcreek on a parallel guide for our DeWalt track saws:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...rallel-guides?

I have the 80/20 and just today got a small box of pieces from McMaster Carr. I still need to order the cam clamps and other clamps from Rockler but may get to start on my version this weekend. I need to paint the new room for my wife but it shouldn't take too long and I will need something else to do while the paint dries.

My plan is to make these parallel guides and use them to make the workbench later. I will also buy the Paulk plans before building my bench. Mine will not be the same as his but I should get enough ideas to be worth getting the plans.

Relative to shop layout, I had a long bench with the RAS and a CMS on it and a long fence with stops in my last shop. It was very handy. My new shop is not much larger than yours but I plan a long bench along one wall. I also had a open cubby bin in my last shop where I put pneumatic tools and cordless tools and other frequently used options. Paulk has something similar in his moving workshop. I also plan something like this, probably over the rolling bench. I am thinking that storage for hardwood lumber will go above the RAS/CMS bench. The wall I plan to use has extra 2x4s due to the way it got framed so it would be relatively easy to put metal pipes into the 2x4s to support the lumber. My BT3100 does not have its extension rails any more due to the addition of a track saw. So it takes up a lot less space.

The small end of my shop where the passage door is I plan to use for my drill press and benchtop mortise + air compressor. I don't think I need as much room to the sides of these tools and the mortise will be on wheels so I can move it out when using it.

I'm still figuring it out too. This is what I think I'll do but the final may be different. But I know what I liked about the last shop and that helps.