Putting It Back Together

[capncarl]

I was able to obtain several large pieces of Slat Wall material from the remodling of a shoe store. Things work out for a reason, as I had built a small section of french cleat type wall system. The Slat Wall came with an assortment of hangers, and I purchased more. I believe that I like the Slat Wall better than the french cleat system because the fixtures on Slat Wall do not easily fall off when you bump into them or knock them with a long board.
capncarl

[tohellwithuga]

Another idea from my old shop that might get used in my new and seems applicable to you is waferboard for the walls. It was about the same price as wallboard when I put it in. I skim coated it with joint compound to smooth it a bit and painted it white. I can then screw anything I want to the wall anywere I want. Seems better than cleats or pegboard to me. A quick look does not reveal it isn't wallboard.

Yeah, I am trying to decide between sheetrock and OSB currently myself. Obviously, being able to screw anything anywhere is a plus, but, when I had my mold issue, the OSB was some of the worst infected material I had (since it is so porous). Also, because of this, dust likes to stick to it.

So, the skim coat you mentioned, was this over the whole board? Does the mud ever flake when you screw something to it? Also, how much primer/paint did you end up having to use (if you remember - I have read that it soaks up a lot). Do you get much dust that sticks to it still?

[capncarl]

Something that I have not read mentioned is the fire rating of OSB, which has NO fire rating ( or called class C for combustable) vrs the X fire rating of drywall which is around 30 minutes. After installing 5/8 OSB on the walls and 1/4 plywood in the ceilings of my shop I had a change of heart on the fireproof of my shop. I accidententally set some rags on my work bench on fire while welding. If the blaze had not reflected in my welding hood and alerted me of the fire it would have probably been a bad scene. Now I weld outside and unplug all tools when I leave the shop. With the history of the bt switch failing and nearly every other tool having simular switches I believe that much caution should be taken to prevent them from starting a fire while unattended. I will not install osb in another shop. Drywall is too cheap not to use. You can still install all the other hanger wall systems on top of the drywall.
capncarl

[dbhost]

For starters, just as an FYI, the BT3100 on the mobile cabinet, and if I recognize it, the woodworkers bench are my designs from sketchup, and yes the mobile cabinet design needs a LOT of work. I just cobbled it together QUICK to have something in the right size range. But you get the idea. Multi compartment cabinet, good top, dedicated space for the router etc...

One thing I was concerned with was your mention of mold, and a basement shop. That sounds to me like a moisture problem on top of the dust issues. Yes removing dust from the moist environment is a good start, but you need to dry the environment up to keep mold at bay. It sounds like you could REALLY use a dehumidifier in that shop...

Also, if you have a lot of benchtop tools, you might want to consider the tool stacker idea that should have been in the same collection as the saw / bench models. Just look for BigDaveF150 in the warehouse...

[tohellwithuga]

Something that I have not read mentioned is the fire rating of OSB, which has NO fire rating ( or called class C for combustable) vrs the X fire rating of drywall which is around 30 minutes... (snip) ... I will not install osb in another shop. Drywall is too cheap not to use. You can still install all the other hanger wall systems on top of the drywall.
capncarl

Well, there's always the option to do both. In my original home theater plans, instead of doing double drywall, I was going to do a layer of OSB covered by a layer of drywall. This gives the ability to screw anywhere, plus the fire rating. But, at twice the price (although, I assume the drywall might take less paint, so there might be a little cost savings there.

But, if I used french cleats and/or pegboard, the 'screw anywhere' benefits of OSB aren't as important...

[tohellwithuga]

For starters, just as an FYI, the BT3100 on the mobile cabinet, and if I recognize it, the woodworkers bench are my designs from sketchup, and yes the mobile cabinet design needs a LOT of work. I just cobbled it together QUICK to have something in the right size range. But you get the idea. Multi compartment cabinet, good top, dedicated space for the router etc...

Cool, I figured it might have been someone on here that created the sketch. Did you actually end up building it (or, your improved version of it)? Any pics?

One thing I was concerned with was your mention of mold, and a basement shop. That sounds to me like a moisture problem on top of the dust issues. Yes removing dust from the moist environment is a good start, but you need to dry the environment up to keep mold at bay. It sounds like you could REALLY use a dehumidifier in that shop...

The mold issue is under control at this point. I added a 70 pint dehumidifier shortly after discovering the mold problem. The humidity was originally 60% or more (even though I had an HVAC system keeping it at the right temperature). Now it is typically 40% or less all the time.

Basically, before, I was only doing one of the 3 things right to control mold (temp). The other two were in abundance (mold food, i.e. dust/dirt, and humidity).

Also, if you have a lot of benchtop tools, you might want to consider the tool stacker idea that should have been in the same collection as the saw / bench models. Just look for BigDaveF150 in the warehouse...

I will definitely look that up, thanks!

[capncarl]

The OSB did take up a lot of paint, but rolling it on it did not seem to take any more than the plywood ceiling did. It does not hold dust too bad. Even drywall attracts dust though.
capncarl

[lrr]

I started a refresh on my basement shop a couple months ago. I am not a big fan of pegboard covering all the walls, but there is one spot where I like to hang popular tools that see a lot of use. I ditched the cheap hardboard, and ordered Wall Control metal pegboard from Amazon. Google it and check out their website. The panels come in a number of colors, and perhaps the best feature is that they have their own metal hooks and other items that are heavy duty and anchor securely. The panels will also take standard pegboard hooks. The panels have slots for their hardware and holes for conventional hardware.

I bought a 3 pack of panels with an assortment of hooks/hangers for a little over $100. I also ordered an accessory kit for additional hooks and hangers but I'm not sure I'd do this again. I'd probably buy just extras of the type of their hardware I use the most.

The panels are 16"X32", so covering a whole wall would be pricey, but they are very well made.

[tohellwithuga]

So, here is another shot based on some feedback from here.

- I like the tool stacker idea from BigDaveF150 (thanks dbhost). I put this on the back wall next to the shelves for now. Need to make sure I still have enough room to get to the utility sink, so I may switch things around a bit (trying to keep things that don't need to be plugged in on the back concrete wall).

- I like the mobile base ideas, too (thanks mpc). I used a model I found in the 3D warehouse, not sure what mine will look like if/when I build them. I put these on the left (outside wall) for now, although they could be stored elsewhere.

- I'm thinking harder about getting rid of my MSUV and putting the miter saw on a mobile base with fold-down supports (another model from BigDaveF150)

- I put the DC between the doors for now (under the compressor). This could also go in the bottom left corner - should be able to reach the important tools from either place.

- Turned one of the shelf benches 90 deg. into the room for assembly. Not real sure about this yet though.

[tohellwithuga]

So, one of the first things I need to figure out is electrical. I have put in a 100A subpanel already. I planned to put in at least four 20A general circuits, one ceiling circuit, a lighting circuit, and one or two other dedicated circuits (12/2 everywhere, 120V for now, could switch to 240V if needed later).

Here is my initial electrical plan (color-coded by circuit, don't laugh...). I have already nailed most of the boxes in place, and run much of the wiring (I did most of this before the mold issue, and based on a totally different layout). All wall outlets (except the far right 2 orange outlets) are in high/low pairs with the tops at 18" and 54":



On the far wall (my largest continuous space), I have 2 circuits, split left and right, with 4 outlets each (shown in orange and green):



On the left wall, I have one circuit with 6 outlets (shown in blue):



And on the near wall, I have one circuit with 5 outlets (shown in yellow):



Any thoughts on this? I'm trying to figure out where to run my dedicated circuits to. Obviously, one should go with the dust collector, but I'm not 100% sure where it will go. I'm thinking that I should make the lower outlet between the doors (left side, when looking at the 1st photo) be one of the dedicated circuits. Even if I don't put the DC there, it would be a good spot to plug in the table saw. Thoughts?

[mpc]

Any thoughts about an overhead air filter? If so, think about a dedicated wiring circuit with an outlet up high for it. Typically overhead filters are situated so they cause air to circulate through the shop - a central location typically isn't good; being offset towards one wall is generally better. Lesson learned on mine: don't have the exhaust aimed towards your main work areas - especially near sanding areas. I had to reverse my filter unit because, even with a fairly long distance between the filter and my bench, the air movement made sanding dust swirl right at the bench.

With a 1.5 HP dust collector (Delta unit) and 1 micron bags, I'm still amazed (and somewhat discouraged) by how quickly the overhead air filter inlet gets covered in fine sawdust powder. My shop doesn't lend itself to any sort of circulation pattern... unless my goal is to cover the "car" end in fine dust.

mpc

[tohellwithuga]

An overhead air filter is definitely on my short list. I have been looking for a deal on one for a while, but haven't had a lot of luck. I actually had a makeshift one built out of MDF and a small attic fan, but the MDF was riddled with mold, so I just threw it out.

As far as placement, I was thinking I would angle it towards my return duct (see sketch below). The short duct is the return, and it has a filter in the return grill. Both lines are currently in the ceiling (this was the best I could do without running the ductwork under the joists). I have thought about dropping the return down low into the wall (next to the subpanel), but that requires me to cut the top plates of the wall, and also might get covered up if I ever put any tool at that space on the wall (temporarily, of course).

I guess, again, the main thing to figure out right now is where to put the outlet(s) in the ceiling. Does an air filter usually require a dedicated 20A circuit? Or, could I share it with, say, the air compressor?

[mpc]

My primary dust collector is basically in a corner, the ceiling air filter is a few feet away. I had initially installed the air filter such that it's intake would suck up anything that got through the collector's bags... but that aimed the overhead filter's outlet in the general direction of my bench. That was enough to make sanding at the bench noticeably dustier and more hazardous - not what I intended when I bought a safety item! I've since reversed the overhead filter and that cured the bench issue.

As for electrical needs... mine is the Rikon 1/4 HP unit which equates to around 200 watts or a bit under 2 amps. A typical 15 amp 120 volt outlet equates to a little over 2 HP in capability, assuming near 100% conversion efficiency. How many HP is your compressor? If it's 1.5 watts or lower, the two units probably could co-exist... but I wouldn't combine them for another reason: surges. Anything with a large electric motor - like the compressor - will have an initial large "inrush" current while the motor starts which will pull the 120 volts down a bit for a moment, and when it shuts off there is likely to be a voltage surge as all the magnetism collapses back into the motor windings. (this is how the ignition coil in a car engine works) Many ceiling filter units have electronic timer & remote controller boards on them... and might not live long when faced with voltage dropouts and surges. The more electrical wire you can put between the compressor (or other motors) and electronic items the better; a bit of coiled wire acts as a "choke" to high-frequency electrical signals (i.e. surges). Or consider installing dedicated surge suppressors at the electronic items. One last consideration: my Rikon air filter suffered a controller board failure fairly early in its life (Rikon sent a free warranty replacement after one email from me describing the issue - no arguments from them so good customer service!) when one capacitor clearly burst. As a result, I turn the circuit breaker for that outlet OFF when I'm not in the shop... who knows how long my unit was half-ON with this blown capacitor and resulting confused controller/computer. It's display lights were on part-way; fortunately the motor wasn't running so the power draw probably was low. Still, freaked me a bit so it's "unplugged" via the circuit breaker when not needed now; everything else in the shop has always been unplugged for safety when I'm not there.

Looking at your proposed layout, my first inclination is to re-aim your filter a bit so it's parallel to the side wall yet still a couple feet away from the wall. Let it exhaust towards that main duct since that's also filtered... but is that main return duct running 100% of the time you are in the shop? Probably not... so aim the ceiling filter unit to circulate the air counter-clockwise in your diagram; it'll suck up any airborne sanding dust from the workbench in the lower/right corner of your diagram. It'll also help keep any escapee dust from the main dust collector from settling on you/the bench.

mpc

p.s. you have a solid green colored filter in your diagram - Rikon green perhaps?

[tohellwithuga]

Hmm, good point about the electronics in the air filter, I hadn't thought about that. I will plan to keep it on a separate circuit then.

I really don't know what filter I will end up with. I almost bought a Delta a while back when it was on clearance at Lowes, but missed it (that's when I decided to build my own with the attic fan as a temporary measure - but, honestly, I'm not sure how well that worked since the attic fans don't work well with backpressure). I had even toyed with the idea of something like this - http://www.wwgoa.com/homemade-air-filtration-system/. Anyway, I have been keeping my eye out on CL and for sales/clearances, but haven't found anything great so far.

Whenever I do get one, I will plan to use your suggestions about placement, they sound like the right thing to do, thanks!

--

So, that gives me the general idea/location for the future air filter wiring. Anyone have any thoughts on the rest of the wiring proposals? Should I run a dedicated 20A to the low outlet between the doors (for the DC) as mentioned earlier? Where else would you suggest running dedicated circuits, or does what I have look ok? Thanks.

[mpc]

Look at the wattage or amperage draw of the various tools. Any that are more than 600 watts/5amps probably would benefit from being on separate circuits if they might be used at the same time. Anything with a 1HP or larger motor probably ought to be on a separate circuit as well - separate only from other tools that might be running at the same time that is. For example, you could put a BT3 table saw and a large bandsaw on the same circuit since it's unlikely you'll have both ON at the same time. The dust collector though is going to be used pretty much with everything else and it's a pretty big power consumer so it should be on its own feed. Air compressors need a lot of current when re-starting so they like separate power feeds.

Looking at one of your earlier layouts - with the color coded outlets, my first gut reaction on the orange and green outlets for example would have been to alternate them. Right now, most of the green outlets will feed several benchtop tools yet the orange ones are in the wood storage area and won't get used much. Put a green outlet and an orange outlet near the benchtop tools and you'll have less chances of conflicts. You may find you'll need to roll the dust collector, or a shop vac, to the benchtop tools so having two power feeds in that area is advantageous. Though with 20 amp wiring instead of the usual 15 amp circuits you've got a lot more capacity especially for benchtop or hand-held power tools. And just because a circuit is on a separate breaker doesn't mean it won't interfere with another circuit - after all, they do come together in the service panel. At least for surge/voltage drop issues that is, not amperage/wattage/HP issues. Amperage/wattage/HP issues stem from trying to pull a lot of electricity through one circuit breaker; separating the circuits fixes this. Assuming the power feed TO your service panel is big enough and has good, solid connections.

mpc

p.s. my dust collector is in fact the Delta unit clearanced by Lowes several years ago! And my Rikon air filter is the one Woodcraft started selling not that long ago; I got it when they had the low introductory price. The Delta dust collector seems to work okay but for some things I find the Ridgid shop vac actually works better. Suction pressure change sometimes IS better than pure airflow volume for tools that don't have good internal airflow or baffles. Having a separate electrical circuit for the shop vac near my bench and roll-around tool cabinet outlets means I can use the shop vac without worrying about electrical issues.