What Are You Using For Dust Collection

[vaking]

I also use a small 650 CFM jet dust collector. It works well for a single tool without elaborate duct work. All of my tools have 2.5" hose connectors, so I built a dust separator which also works as a splitter of 1 4" hose into 2 2.5" hoses with blast gate. This way I have ability to collect either from single port or from 2 ports. Table saw and router table use 2-ports each. All other use single port. Table saw is connected one hose at the fence (shark guard) and the other hose to back port.

[LarryG]

I'm yet another of the several members here who have the 2HP DC from Harbor Freight, with a Wynn filter conversion. This thread shows my hard-piping setup as it existed some 18 months ago. It's now substantially the same, but I'm considering a semi-major tool rearrangement that will include moving the DC, to shorten and simplify some of the runs.

Performance is excellent considering what I spent, but the system definitely falls into Loring's "limit sweeping" category. Shop vacs and smaller DC systems like this can help you keep a cleaner shop, but neither is capable of moving enough air to truly protect your health.

[Tom Miller]

Grizzly 2HP, with 4" PVC ducting (mostly pretty short runs). Constantly planning to upgrade the top bag to the Grizzly canister filter, but never seem to pull the trigger.

Regards,
Tom

[LCHIEN]

I'm yet another of the several members here who have the 2HP DC from Harbor Freight, with a Wynn filter conversion. This thread shows my hard-piping setup as it existed some 18 months ago. It's now substantially the same, but I'm considering a semi-major tool rearrangement that will include moving the DC, to shorten and simplify some of the runs.

Performance is excellent considering what I spent, but the system definitely falls into Loring's "limit sweeping" category. Shop vacs and smaller DC systems like this can help you keep a cleaner shop, but neither is capable of moving enough air to truly protect your health.

I would like to point out that even the HF DC, though not perfect, is going to get 10 times as much fine dust as the shop vac, due to the CFMs it can put up compared to the shop vacs, if plumbed reasonably well. And I'm assuming a good canister filter for the DC and HEPA filters for the SV, both an upgarade from the stock machines. I also use an air cleaner to try and catch the airborne stuff that gets away from the DC.

For my health, I'd a whole lot rather use the DC than the SV.

[pacwind3]

I have a Rigid shop vac, recently upgraded to the 16 gallon if I remember right. I am using 2-1/2 tubing thoughout with 3 gates.
For the air: I picked up a Ridgid portable air scrubber. They don't sell these anymore, unfortunately, but it does a really good job on the air. It hangs on the wall, but I can put it next to a sanding job if I want.
I want to make a seperator but haven't had time yet.

[LarryG]

Excellent point, Loring, and quite true. And I will add, although you alluded to this, that how you rig the collection network can provide a lot of "free" bang for the buck with even a marginal DC unit like the 2HP HF. When I put in my hard piping system, it was almost like I had bought a much larger, much more powerful dust collector.

Part of my reason for wanting/needing to rearrange the shop is to create a place to hang a filter, something I currently don't have. With only 7' of headroom in the shop, a filter can't go just anywhere.

[docrowan]

I, too, use a Ridgid Shop Vac. I do a good bit of my cutting and sanding outside, so I get decent results with this for the limited work I do in the shop. If I were doing a lot of cutting inside on a regular basis I might be more concerned about the fine dust and have to work out a different system.

I do plan on sealing up my BT3100 using methods I learned on this site's archives. I am curious to see how much better fine dust suction I will get if the only places the vac is getting air is from the motor side vent holes and the saw blade kerf.

[MikeMcCoy]

I have the Delta 50-760 hard piped to my major machines with flex running the last few feet. I have my sanders pretty much on the far side of the shop and use a Fein Turbo for those. I tried running the Oneida Dust Deputy with the Fein but found out in about 10 seconds that a plastic drum would implode. I have the Jet air filter that I usually don't remember to turn on.

[ejs1097]

shop vac and boxfan with filter. best I can do in my budget and space.

[ragswl4]

I have the HF, 2HP DC connected to the TS with one 4" flex hose and another 4" flex hose that I swap between the router table, RAS, planer and jointer. I also have a Delta air filter that is continuosly on when I'm in the shop.

When my new home is done I will have a dedicated shop that I will hardpipe the DC to the various tools. Right now I have 1 bay of a 3 car garage. I used a shop vac for the first year and had lots of dust (fines) everywhere, not so much now with the DC and air filter. I'd have a lot less now if I would remember to turn on the DC all the time. (Too many birthdays)

[cgallery]

I would like to point out that even the HF DC, though not perfect, is going to get 10 times as much fine dust as the shop vac, due to the CFMs it can put up compared to the shop vacs, if plumbed reasonably well. And I'm assuming a good canister filter for the DC and HEPA filters for the SV, both an upgarade from the stock machines. I also use an air cleaner to try and catch the airborne stuff that gets away from the DC.

For my health, I'd a whole lot rather use the DC than the SV.

When I first got my particle counters (four channels at .5-microns, 1-micron, 2.5-microns, and 5-microns) I tried a test.

I used my shop vac on my BT3K and I ripped a piece of MDF down (1/16" at a time so the blade was exposed at the edge rather than buried) several times. I watched the particle counters rapidly climb.

I then waited for the dust to settle and I swapped a Penn State 1-1/2 HP DC (w/ cart. filter) for the shop vac. I then performed the same MDF test and witnessed the same spiking on the particle counters.

A Shark Guard with collection above the table would help a lot. And in that case, a DC would be a much better solution as a single shop vac isn't going to be able to service two ports.

A DC's that are plumbed with 4" pipes only move 2.25 times the CFM as a shop vac.

[Tom Miller]

When I first got my particle counters (four channels at .5-microns, 1-micron, 2.5-microns, and 5-microns) I tried a test.

I used my shop vac on my BT3K and I ripped a piece of MDF down (1/16" at a time so the blade was exposed at the edge rather than buried) several times. I watched the particle counters rapidly climb.

I then waited for the dust to settle and I swapped a Penn State 1-1/2 HP DC (w/ cart. filter) for the shop vac. I then performed the same MDF test and witnessed the same spiking on the particle counters.

A Shark Guard with collection above the table would help a lot. And in that case, a DC would be a much better solution as a single shop vac isn't going to be able to service two ports.

A DC's that are plumbed with 4" pipes only move 2.25 times the CFM as a shop vac.

You definitely came up with a "worst case" scenario for generating dust! I'm surprised you found your particle counter after that (or did you have a flag attached to it? )

I do have a shark guard, and I have to say, it doesn't do well in this situation either. At least not by itself. Maybe if I had a 4" port on it....The reason is because there's a big effective opening between the guard and the table, and the airflow has to work against the force that the blade is throwing the dust forward.

Since the dust is not being pulled below the table like with a normal cut, this test isn't really a good side-by-side comparison of DC's -- neither unit is sucking where the dust is.

Regards,
Tom

[poolhound]

You definitely came up with a "worst case" scenario for generating dust! I'm surprised you found your particle counter after that (or did you have a flag attached to it? )

I do have a shark guard, and I have to say, it doesn't do well in this situation either. At least not by itself. Maybe if I had a 4" port on it....The reason is because there's a big effective opening between the guard and the table, and the airflow has to work against the force that the blade is throwing the dust forward.

Since the dust is not being pulled below the table like with a normal cut, this test isn't really a good side-by-side comparison of DC's -- neither unit is sucking where the dust is.

Regards,
Tom

I have my shopvac connect to just the SG with my DC doing the main saw. While not perfect for the reason you mention it does improve the situation a lot.

[cgallery]

You definitely came up with a "worst case" scenario for generating dust! I'm surprised you found your particle counter after that (or did you have a flag attached to it? )

I do have a shark guard, and I have to say, it doesn't do well in this situation either. At least not by itself. Maybe if I had a 4" port on it....The reason is because there's a big effective opening between the guard and the table, and the airflow has to work against the force that the blade is throwing the dust forward.

Yeah, but as soon as you're done cutting, you have a 2.5" hose in your face that is evacuating the air above the table.

Since the dust is not being pulled below the table like with a normal cut, this test isn't really a good side-by-side comparison of DC's -- neither unit is sucking where the dust is.

Regards,
Tom

Define "normal cut" . "Trimming a smidgen" is a fairly common cut.

We could modify the test, but doesn't that just give users of a DC a false sense of security?

And it doesn't really even matter, with the blade buried in the wood and with no above the blade collection, the air quickly becomes loaded with dust whether you use a DC or a SV. BTDT.

My recollection is that the testing that BP started in 2006 (but never finished because he said the lawyers wouldn't let him publish it ) indicated that shops with above the blade collection had passable air quality. Shops w/o, failed miserably. It didn't matter if they had a single stage or big cyclone (but he didn't test any shops using only a shop vac).

Some postings by Dylos users after the group buy seemed to back that up.

My point here isn't to degrade DC's. Only to point out that they provide only very marginally improved results when it comes to the BT3K loading the air with particles. It is my belief, based upon my reading, that above the table collection would be a much more substantial improvement.

By all means, get a DC. But also get a SG.

[dkerfoot]

I would like to point out that even the HF DC, though not perfect, is going to get 10 times as much fine dust as the shop vac, due to the CFMs it can put up compared to the shop vacs, if plumbed reasonably well. And I'm assuming a good canister filter for the DC and HEPA filters for the SV, both an upgarade from the stock machines. I also use an air cleaner to try and catch the airborne stuff that gets away from the DC.

For my health, I'd a whole lot rather use the DC than the SV.

This may have been asked before (heck, I may have asked it!) but has anyone ever seen any real life tests or run the theoretical numbers of what happens when a DC is connected to a single and/or dual 2 1/2" connection?

On another similar topic, when my DC is connected to a 2 1/2" fitting, it "seems" to help if I have a Y connection at the end of the 4" hose and crack a blast gate partially open. The airflow through the tool actually seems to improve - I assume because it keeps the 4" hose from plugging due to too low CFM.

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