DC Duct mounting High/low

[rjwaldren]

I just picked up the green HF portable DC, I plan on wall mounting it, adding a Cgallery's separator and vent straight outside. The DC probably realistically pulls <400 CFM, but it's replacing a 6.5hp vac that was deafening. I picked up some 4" SD and fittings to start plumbing. There will be 3 gates on a single straight run of about 16'. I should only need to drag hose across the floor for the TS which I pull out to the center of the 20x22 garage.

So here were I need some advice, how much of a impact will mounting the ducts at the ceiling and dropping to gates about 4' high have on removal? The original idea was to plumb straight across at 4', but that will eat a lot of wall space and eliminates the option off adding a branch to the middle of the garage.

With a relatively low powered DC, am I better off keeping things low as I originally planned?

[cgallery]

Shouldn't make a difference whether the pipes are high or low. If the ceiling is more convenient, the ceiling it is!

[Uncle Cracker]

Proof's really in the pudding. Low cfm's might prevent heavier shavings from making the upward journey, but I'd say you'll only know for sure if you plumb it up temporary and give it a try. Worst that can happen is you have to drop the whole rig down to mid-wall level and reconnect. If all works OK at ceiling height, then you just strap it in permanent, and you're done.

[LCHIEN]

one of the big enemies of those lower power DCs (1 hp or so) are long runs. Running to the ceiling and back down will be an extra 10 feet of pipe (5 ft up and 5 feet back down).

[rjwaldren]

I just finished mounting it to the wall. I had to flip it over in it's portable mount to get the ports facing the right direction. I replaced all of the mounting bolts with carriage bolts and moved the nuts to the outside and sealed the holes with neoprene washers. The original bolt stuck into the impeller chamber ~3/4". I also swapped port grates with "rabbit mesh" and removed a section of the intake port to flair it a bit. The calibrated hand test shows a noticeable improvement in suction under no load. The wall mounting does give a nice low rumble to the playroom through.

I guess tomorrow I'll play with the ducting and see how it goes.

[ksum]

If I read you right, you are asking about the location of the gates. It is best to put them as close to the wyes as possible. Preferably right against the fitting. If you have to, put a long stick handle on them.

Karl

[dbhost]

I would tend to agree with Loring, route your pipe low so you can avoid the extra 5 feet each way of pipe... Of course that will pose a problem with floor space I know. It's a trade off with those low power jobs...

[cgallery]

Woops, I have to adjust my previous advice. I thought it was the full-sized "2HP" HF unit. With the portable, and a separator, you're gonna be pushing it.

[rjwaldren]

I spent most of the day, building a circle jig and assembling the separator baffle, just waiting for the glue to dry. I went by my local rockler authorized dealer today and found the building empty, so I'll have to mail order some hose.

[ironhat]

I did the low mount - the same distance off the floor as the unit's intake. I did it on trial first but determined, as others have noted, that I didn't need more run length for my HF 2HP DC to overcome. Like you noted, I only have to pull hose for one machine, my jointer. The TS was easiest plumbed to a shop vac with a coupled outlet for instant 'on' and delayed 'off'. I have the RAS and CMS mounted on the same wall as the long run so most of my needs are taken care of from that one, 16' run. Enjoy!

[rjwaldren]

It looks like I'll mount the pipe about 3.5' high, to just clear the router table, dp table, etc. I've also shortened the run plan to about 12' with 4 gates.

BTW, Cgallery, nice separator design. I've only used it while boring 4.5" holes in MDF for the blastgates - Nothings escaping. I post the setup to your forum when complete.