How to toenail studs to plates

[billfrommich]

This question is so basic I'm almost embarrassed to ask it, but here goes. Suppose you are constructing interior non-load bearing partition walls from wood 2 x 4s. Is there an accepted nailing scheme for attaching the studs to the bottom and top plates? I know this involves toenailing the studs in place (I've actually done this many times using what I thought was common sense but have never been shown how to do it by a "proffesional"). How many nails are typically used and what size nails? Do you toenail through the sides only, front, back, and sides, or front and back only? How far from the end of the stud do you start the nails? I'm getting rather specific here partly because I'd like to make sort of a "pocket hole" type drilling jig that would let me predrill the nail holes in the studs to reduce splitting and to make the job easier and more consistent (I have a palm nailer but not a framing nailer).

[cabinetman]

When able to, I like assembling the stud wall on the floor and nail or screw through the plates into the studs, and then stand up the wall. If necessary to install studs to installed top and bottom plates, I use a set nail on one side into the plate to keep the studs from moving, and toe nail from the other. Sighting from the edge for the seated angle of the nail, you can see where it should start. I start the nail at 90 degrees, and then drive it at an angle to the toe plate. You can use 2 per side. Or you can use metal framing clips which get nailed at 90 deg to the plates and the studs.
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[LarryG]

Use three 10d nails, two on one side and one on the other, in a triangular arrangement. The single nail is centered (roughly) and the two on the other side straddle it. Start the nails about 1" up from the bottom of the stud.

A spacer block that butts against the next stud makes it easier to hold the stud bottom in place as you nail from the other side. For 16" OC framing, you'd need a spacer 14-1/2" long.

It's easier to build the wall flat and stand it up, if you have the floor space. The wall can be nailed together with only one plate on top, and the second one slid into place after the wall has been stood up.

EDIT: It's been a long time since I strapped on my nail bags for a paycheck, so I cannot call myself a "professional" these days; but the above is how I was taught to do it, and how I've seen it done by other carpenters working under various building codes. For questions like these it's always best to check with local building officials, or a respected framing carpenter; but for a non-structural application such as yours, strict adherence to the fastening schedules is much less critical than if you were building a load-bearing wall.

[cwsmith]

I'm not in the profession, but I learned "framing" when I used to work with my Father, long ago; also, "building skills" was a full-semester course in my HS advanced woodworking class, where we built a small house.

While that was long ago(in the 50's and early 60's) when the framing hammer and the hand saw were key to the trade, I learned to do it as LarryG described.... with one nail in the center of one side and two on the other. Generally, nailing on the front or back of the stud wasn't acceptable as it got in the way of the ply, lath, or drywall.

Perhaps wood was better then, but "splitting" never seemed to be problem back then, if you kept the nails in about 3/4" or so from the edge.

As others have mentioned, prefabricating the wall while laying flat is much preferred and certainly far more efficient, as you can simply drive two nails through the bottom plate into the end of the stud. But adding a wall to an existing structure does not always allow for that.

I hope this helps,

CWS

[dbhost]

I'm not in the profession, but I learned "framing" when I used to work with my Father, long ago; also, "building skills" was a full-semester course in my HS advanced woodworking class, where we built a small house.

While that was long ago(in the 50's and early 60's) when the framing hammer and the hand saw were key to the trade, I learned to do it as LarryG described.... with one nail in the center of one side and two on the other. Generally, nailing on the front or back of the stud wasn't acceptable as it got in the way of the ply, lath, or drywall.

Perhaps wood was better then, but "splitting" never seemed to be problem back then, if you kept the nails in about 3/4" or so from the edge.

As others have mentioned, prefabricating the wall while laying flat is much preferred and certainly far more efficient, as you can simply drive two nails through the bottom plate into the end of the stud. But adding a wall to an existing structure does not always allow for that.

I hope this helps,

CWS

We had a similar project in HS Wood class where we built and finished out a shed on skids. I think it was 12x16. I am pretty sure the A shed ended up in the shop teachers back yard! Of course this was back in the 1980s.

I think the lumber quality depends on the trees, and the milling. We had split out problems with out lumber. We did the triangular thing, but we pre drilled pilot holes to keep from splitting. I still do that to this day...

I am pretty sure they don't teach anything vaguely useful in schools these days.

[cabinetman]

I think the lumber quality depends on the trees, and the milling. We had split out problems with out lumber. We did the triangular thing, but we pre drilled pilot holes to keep from splitting. I still do that to this day...

Splitting can be a real problem, and for toe nailing, 8d nails are the more common size used because of that. As an alternative to nails, the studs can be pilot drilled and screwed to the plates. This is helpful for those that have a problem with using hammers.
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[LarryG]

Perhaps wood was better then, but "splitting" never seemed to be problem back then, if you kept the nails in about 3/4" or so from the edge.

IME most splitting problems occur when the nails are placed too close to the end of the stud (or the edge, as you say). Using too many nails can contribute to splitting, too, especially if the nail being driven runs into one that's already there and is sharply deflected from its path.

prefabricating the wall while laying flat is much preferred and certainly far more efficient, as you can simply drive two nails through the bottom plate into the end of the stud.]

I suppose for the sake of completeness it should be mentioned that if two nails are used, the size should be 16d. With three nails, a minimum of 10d complies with code but with only two, you gotta use the 16d big boys.

[docrowan]

The spacer block LarryG mentions is a great idea. I built a shed/shop from scratch a few years ago and had some trouble with the stud moving while I was banging away on the first nail. My solution was to predrill the middle and screw in a 2.5" screw, then toe nail two 16d nails on each side. Kept the stud from moving, but took a lot longer than a spacer block.

[Black wallnut]

Splitting can also be almost eliminated by flatening the sharp point to the nail. It then compresses the fibers instead of splitting them like a wedge.

[jonmulzer]

I was always told to do all framing with 16's so I have always toenailed with them also. No major problems with splitting. These days I am a big fan of my framing nailer though. I always did the triangle also, even with 16d nails.

If you are erecting new walls, there should be no reason you could not build them on the floor and then tip up into place and then you won't have to worry about toenailing.

[pelligrini]

If you are erecting new walls, there should be no reason you could not build them on the floor and then tip up into place and then you won't have to worry about toenailing.

Unless the room is smaller than the wall height.

[capncarl]

My last wall project found me short handed, so I nailed 14 1/2 inch spacer blocks to the top and bottom plate and against the first stud. That way I could nail my studs straight into my spacer, not the plates. All stucs were trapped between spacers along the entire wall top and bottom and did not dare warp or twist. There is always enough scrap and ugly wood to not impact the price of the project with the additional lumber.

capncarl

[Hellrazor]

I use 16d ringshank for any framing and 8d for sheathing. As mentioned I use the 3 nail method when I have to toenail something. Long live the framing nailer..

[jonmulzer]

Unless the room is smaller than the wall height.

Hadn't thought of that....... Akham's Razor cuts me again.

[pelligrini]

Hadn't thought of that....... Akham's Razor cuts me again.

Someone had a bright idea to frame the wall in another bigger room, but realized a flaw in the idea when trying to move a 8' wall through a 6'-8" door.