Hardboard top for workbench

[poolhound]

I have read a lot about using 1/4 inch hardboard as a final surface for a laminated bench top. I understand that this is a good idea as it provides a good surface and is easy and cheap to replace.

My question is how should this be fixed such that it is in fact easily replaceable? If its glued wont that make replacement messy and might affect the under layers. If its screwed in then that leaves holes in what I would think ideally needs to be a flat surface.

Puzzled from Phoenix

(AKA Jon)

[JR]

Carpet tape is the most-often suggested way to do it. A few screws wouldn't be a bad alternative - its' been working form me for a long time!

JR

[Tamarack]

Many have installed their edging 1/4" proud of the worksurface, then simply put one countersunk screw in each corner of the hardboard to hold it down.
You'll probably never notice that the screws are there when you use it.

Paul in Idaho

[poolhound]

So you mean that the middle is essentially loose?

[Tamarack]

That's right-with the corners held down by screws or tape, it's not going anywhere. Many use edging, often hardwood,to protect the edge of the hardboard and slow the wear process. Unless you put a large suction cup to it, it's very unlikely that the harboard will lift away from the underlayment.

Paul

[Tom Miller]

I'd suggest the stuff that's smooth on both sides -- I think the stuff that's rough on the bottom might not lay as flat.

Also, if you have a 1/4" lip on your edge-banding, I wouldn't bother with any tape, etc.

Regards,
Tom

[ironhat]

I used some short panel nails. Secure without being to intruding. I like to use my top for quick hold-downs using drywall screws so this stuff is pretty sacraficial. I don't even hesitate to do it.

[poolhound]

so do you even bother to finish this top of just leave it "raw"

[Tom Miller]

so do you even bother to finish this top of just leave it "raw"

Assuming smooth both sides, I'd put on a couple coats of poly both sides, then wax it. That way, glue squeeze out pops right off.

I wouldn't put any finish on one side only.

Regards,
Tom

[Tamarack]

Dealer's choice-some leave it bare, some wipe it down with BLO, Rod Kirby probably would give it multiple coats of wipe-on poly.

Paul

[ironhat]

Whatever I have a lot of or just enough that it's going to waste (in terms of a transparent product) I slap on a couple coats. Good idea about the wax, Tom.

[poolhound]

Thanks everybody, so its - leave edging 1/4 above surface, cut board to size, finish with poly, then wax and just drop in! :-)

[Scottydont]

I do all my benchtops with glueless laminate flooring. Dead flat, glue comes of easily and is extremely durable. Looks good to boot!

[gimpy]

Jon, I just finished my workbench/table about 2 weeks ago. I used 1/8 inch hardboard from HD that I bought. They didn't have the 1/4 inch stuff that I wanted. I put down two sided carpet tape, although I put several strips under it (including down the midsection). I left my trim about 1/8 above the table so it is still pretty smooth. The tape I used still lets it sort of curl up/push up just a little around the edges, but not too bad. By the way, the top side of my hardboard is made of that white plastic stuff. I think it is called "handy panel" or something like that at HD. It seems to make it real slick.

When/if it ever gets dinged enough to change, I will just probably turn it over and use the bottom side depending on its shape.

[fergusburger]

Tempered vs conventional hardboard

Do you know anything about how to finish conventional hardboard so that it is more durable? I picked up a sheet of conventional hardboard for my benchtop, ignorant of the difference between tempered and not, and am now interested in finishing it with somthing to give it more abrasion resistance. I understand that tempered hardboard is conventional hardboard given a BLO treatment and baked. I wonder if finishing my already-screwed-on hardboard top with BLO or a danish oil (sans baking) would help?

- Tom