I have installed quite a bit of floating floor, and the retailers have always told me to leave at least a 1/8th" gap from each wall. The reason for this is because of the way this stuff will expand or shrink depending on humidity or dryness at certain times of year here. By gluing or screwing it to the table top, wouldn't it eventually buckle if you live in an area where the air humidity and dryness depend on the what season it is ?? I was under the impression this is why they call it a "floating" floor, which is not like a nailed/glued hardwood floor, which even they have been known for shrinking or swelling if mislaid.
I think when you are taking about a house where the span may be 10-20 ft that could be an issue. The dimensions on a benchtop are obviously much smaller. Expansion/contraction? Straight grained lumber yes. With laminate flooring I doubt it. It is wood fiber, glue, and the surface is coated with hard surface = very dimensionally stable therefore it would be unnoticable IMHO. Mine are glued up and edge banded and I have not had any probelms in three years. My temps vary from 20 to 90 degrees and 30-50% humidity. The only time I ever saw any of my lams buckle it was cut off pieces left out in the rain for a couple of months.
I am seriously thinking about making them for resale here in Seattle.
Scott
"The Laminate Flooring Benchtop Guy"
Edmonds WA No coffee, no worky!
Scotty - Is there a specific brand you would recommend? I wonder if I could use it for a router table top as well.
It is not necc to buy Pergo or Bruce for $4.00. Any glueless flooring brand should be fine. Flooring Liquidators or even the brand Costco sells is fine. I used Uni-click Quick Step which is the orignal maker of snap lock type flooring. Flooring stores often sell open box or remnant pieces. Anywhere form .75 to $2.00 SF.
Both MDF and laminate flooring have characteristics of being DEAD FLAT that are ideal for a router table. For about $25 bucks you can make a router table top that is better quality than what Woodpeckers would charge over $100 bucks for. Plus all of my benchtops match. Very important in my quest to aspire to the likes of Rod Kirby.
Some companys ship their laminate flooring in pallets with a 4x4 cover sheet made of the same laminate the planks are milled from.You can find these at floor covering stores,often free as most places just throw them away.They make great work tops!
This thread has proven really useful. I have nearly finished my new bench top and its looking really good. Its 7' x 2.5' and I edged with some 3" red Oak (on sale for $3.40 bd/ft). I used HD 1/4" hardboard, thats the rough back stuff, and added some screws and a little glue along the edge. I have just given it a 2nd coat of poly. It has to go into a corner so I intend to add a 2-3" frame on the wall sides routed with a channel to hold bits and tools etc. this will be screwed down so helps to hold down the HB top. Then its just add so dog holes and I'm done.
I mounted the vise behind the oak edge - Thanks for the adVISE Tom
Jon
Jon
Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
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We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them techzibits.com
What do all of you put under these tops? I'm always seeing plans for the glued-up maple table tops, but this sounds much more like something I'd be likely to do.
I really am going to make something one of these days.
Did not get finished today but will try and sort some pictures showing where I am at. Only got one dog hole drilled and thats not real satisfactory. Have to go out of town so projectson hold untill weekend after next.
Jon
Jon
Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
________________________________
We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them techzibits.com
OK I'm in a hotel in Paris and the wireless wont stay up for more than 5 mins so am reduced to using antique tools - AKA dialup.
I downsized the photos and hopefully you can see them. I am open to ideas on how best to finish the 2 wall sides. Orginally I was going to use a 2x with a "tray" routed in the middle this would mean I have a firm backstop on 2 edges to help with clamping etc.but a 2x now seems like overkill. I still have the rest of the 4x8 3/4 ply left from the top so have a piece thats already 7' long. I thought I could rip a couple of edges and add a couple of chamferd wedgesat each end to help get sawdust etc out of the enclosed channel.
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