Hardboard top for workbench

[Raymonator]

I'm a little (a lot) confused as to what the material is that you are calling "laminate flooring". Is this what we call here in Canada "Floating floor" , or is it the real tongue and groove "hard wood floor" type ? I have floating floor installed in my basements playroom. Very tough finish to this stuff and quite attractive and comes in thicknesses from 7mm to 12mm (sorry, don't know what that is in inches). It comes prevarnished, in hundreds of wood patterns and types and you can actually feel the grain of the imitation wood. The underside is very shiny and smooth, but just as hard. It snaps together in a V groove type fashion which makes the joints hardly noticeable. I'm wondering if I couldn't use this to make a workbench top ?

[jdschulteis]

I do all my benchtops with glueless laminate flooring. Dead flat, glue comes of easily and is extremely durable. Looks good to boot!

Scott, do you glue down the laminate flooring? Have you ever drilled dog holes through it?

[jarhead]

[QUOTE=Tom Miller]I'd suggest the stuff that's smooth on both sides -- I think the stuff that's rough on the bottom might not lay as flat...[QUOTE]Tom,
The smooth-on-both-sides hardboard (Duron) is not easy to find (at least not where I live). I wonder if anyone ever glued 2 waffled 1/8" hardboards to form a 1/4" that's smooth on both sides.

[Tom Miller]

I wonder if anyone ever glued 2 waffled 1/8" hardboards to form a 1/4" that's smooth on both sides.

I can't imagine being able to get that flat. I think you'd be better off with 1/4" (or 1/8") waffle-bottom hardboard. JMO.

Regards,
Tom

[scorrpio]

Laminate flooring is indeed 'floating floor'. Local HD sells a brand that's about $38 per 22 sq ft carton. (9 plates, 47x7.5"). One carton should be enough for about any size bench. It is about 7mm thick - just a hair over 1/4". Plates have grooves that interlock, forming a very tight seam. without any glue. It is slick underneath, I use it a lot for jig parts. I use a 7.25" 40T Freud blade in my BT3 to cut it, rather than stiock blade, and I get very clean cuts. Drilling and routing also go well. Best part - since it is made from several interlocked plates, you do not have to replace the entire thing if you heavily damage one area - you keep a carton of it handy, and replace only the damaged plates.

Here's a tip on making 100% aligned dog holes:
Make markings on edges of the bench to show where hole centers are. Place the hardboard, use markings to mark hole centers, and rough-drill the holes using a 1/2" or 3/8" bit in your hand drill. Now, chuck a flush-trim bit in your router, and use it trim holes in the hardboard.

[Raymonator]

Thanks for clarifying the laminate question for me scorrpio. Now, what the heck are dog holes ??
Sorry for sounding and being so stupid.

[Slowpoke]

as far as attaching the stuff..

I've always used several "dots" (after squishing down the hardboard, they'd be approx. silver dollar sized ... okay, okay, for the non Americans, that would be poker chip size ) of silicone sealant ... one near each corner and a few more down the center of the length ... it provides plenty of adhesion, but can be peeled up easily and any residue left on the bench can also be easily removed.

[jdschulteis]

Thanks for clarifying the laminate question for me scorrpio. Now, what the heck are dog holes ??
[. . .]

They're holes in the top of a workbench for accessories that hold your work in place, like these:
http://www.rockler.com/CategoryView.cfm?Cat_ID=1540

[billwmeyer]

I have made two workbenches using hardboard and just laid it on the top and used edge banding. I used no finish, and it has been very durable. The hardboard is smooth on both sides so when one side gets messed up, I will just flip it over.

The only problem I had was when I gave one to a friend. I left it outside in the sun waiting for him to pick it up and the hardboard curled up on the ends. He said it laid right back down after it sat in his shop over night, but he went ahead and put a few screws in it.

I am very happy with this method, but I do want to try the laminate flooring sometime.

Bill

[Scottydont]

Sorry for my delay in responding. (Out of town on biz.) Yes it is glueless snap-lock type laminate flooring also known as a floating floor. The bottom is very shiny but I rough mine up with 60 or 80 grit before gluing. I have used silicone and Titebond II and I have yet to have an delaminations. I drilled bench dog holes in mine and they work great. As a matter of fact the laminate strengthens the holes and helps keep the from getting hogged out during use.

[Raymonator]

Thanks Scotty~ You say you glued the floating floor material to your bench top, wouldn't that make it difficult to replace a section if it became damaged ?

[jgscott987]

Screw it down

I'd highly recommend screwing down the hardboard. I tried using tape, etc, but within a month or two dust migrated down under the hardboard so that it sat a little high in some areas. I cleaned out the dust and screwed down the hardboard with a dozen or so drywall screws, countersunk into the surface. It has stayed very flat now, and really is easy to care for.

Think twice before waxing the surface, however. I temporarily clamp things to my bench, like my grinder and my sander. I wouldn't want them sliding around.

My surface is totally unfinished and has stood up to a lot of abuse, including a leaking roof! It is still nice and flat.

[Scottydont]

Thanks Scotty~ You say you glued the floating floor material to your bench top, wouldn't that make it difficult to replace a section if it became damaged ?

I only applied the glue towards the edges. Quite frankly I don't anticipate replacing the flooring anytime soon. 5-10 years I expect based on how it's holding up. I have had mine for 3 years now and it's still looks new. You can beat on it with a hammer with no damage (within reason) and glue scrapes right off with a sharp chisel. By the time the top needs to be replaced I'll be in the mood for a new bench anyway.

[Raymonator]

I have installed quite a bit of floating floor, and the retailers have always told me to leave at least a 1/8th" gap from each wall. The reason for this is because of the way this stuff will expand or shrink depending on humidity or dryness at certain times of year here. By gluing or screwing it to the table top, wouldn't it eventually buckle if you live in an area where the air humidity and dryness depend on the what season it is ?? I was under the impression this is why they call it a "floating" floor, which is not like a nailed/glued hardwood floor, which even they have been known for shrinking or swelling if installed to the edge too tight.

[Ken Weaver]

Many have installed their edging 1/4" proud of the worksurface, then simply put one countersunk screw in each corner of the hardboard to hold it down.
You'll probably never notice that the screws are there when you use it.

Paul in Idaho

That's the way I did mine. Works fine, screws not even noticed.