Bandsaw Problems Cutting O. O.

[leehljp]

I mentioned in another thread about some Osage Orange wood that I had been given if I would cut it. Well, I cut a number of pieces of the log from 12" -14" round and about 12 - 16 inches long.
And, I have one piece about 28 inches long and 9" in diameter and straight. I wanted to cut about 6" off (crosscut) the 9" diameter log. I am usingmy bandsaw with a 1/2" blade, 3 points?. Once I put the log up to cut 6 inches off the length, I thought I was holding it tight; then when I was about 1 inch (maybe 1 1/4") Suddenly, it grabbed and twisted (Rolled) into the blade and bent the blade stopping the 1 HP motor and blade.

I immediately hit the stop. After about 15 minutes and blade change, I tried the same thing again, except gripping as tight as I could. Wham!!! Same thing again!

It took me a while to go over this in my mind, and it took me a whole day of thinking, then it hit me - A few weeks ago, I started reading of the characteristics of Osage Orange ( O. O. ): Very hard, Very rough on saw blades. I need a 4 point blade at the least - the course blades will grab more; I need to cut the rough size with a chain saw first, and I need at least one flat surface on the O O to lay on the BS table. Movable (even slightly unstable) O O on the table, even against a fence will allow the blade to grab and twist. DON'T cut Round O O - crosscut, or it will ROLL and catch!! I will have to run my semi-flat surfaces on sander or planer (if possible) before using the bandsaw on any round O O.

I have cut numerous pieces of OO with the bandsaw but they either square or had at least one flat side to them. Now I just need to re-think my working with large pieces of O O, and plan accordingly.

I learned my lessons - without any damage to me or the saw other than saw blades. READ my tag line below!

NOW that I think of it, cutting ANY large round objects crosscut on a TS or BS can be dangerous, but in all of my years, I have not heard or read of it. I guess most people knew better, and I am one of the few who didn't think that through!

[LCHIEN]

Cutting any round stuff, even a 1" dowel, on a bandsaw requires careful thinking. Wants to grab and roll very fast.

[leehljp]

I didn't think about it grabbing a short 9" log, but I know better now!

[capncarl]

All of my Tiny Trees and Tiny Mushrooms are cut from round logs on the band saw. (3/4 hp 14” Rikon) I haven’t kept count but it will be many many hundreds, so I feel your pain. First rule is don’t cut without roll protection. For freehand band saw ripping I always screw a piece of plywood or 1x6 to the butt of the log to keep it from rolling. ( be sure to position the screws out of harms way of the blade. ) my blade of choice is 3/8 x4 tpi hook. Remember that I’m cutting shape, with a high probability of roll! but this blade still cuts reasonably straight while new and sharp. Speed is not your friend so don’t push too hard. Some wood just wasn’t ment to be cut on the band saw, maybe OO wasn’t. Asian Elm has been my hardest yet. I couldn’t even cut 6” with a 3/4” carbide tipped resaw blade.
I built a mini sawmill using the band saws miter slot and a sled that holds the log with a pipe clamp system. It will cut about 18” long boards with reasonable accuracy…. And it might not cut off your fingers!

[LCHIEN]

If you have a typical woodworking bandsaw the blade cutting speed is going to be around 3000 SFPM (surface feet per minute).

If you try and cut across a 3" log, then sharp teeth will engage the circumference, bark or smooth, and grab it. That will make the log want to spin at 3300 RPM. A literal spindle sander on your skin if you happen to be holding it.



A 1" log or dowel will want to try and spin at nearly 10,000 RPM!

The length and weight of the log matter some. The shorter and lighter it is the less inertia it has to overcome to set that thing spinning.

[leehljp]

ROLL PROTECTION! That is a MUST, that I have not seen described before. Thanks!

[LCHIEN]

ROLL PROTECTION! That is a MUST, that I have not seen described before. Thanks!

Roll protection = clamp it to the miter fence.
you still have to be careful because the roll wants the leading edge to go down with the teeth and the back edge to go up. A shear force on the clamp 90 degrees from the clamping force if you clamped it to the fence. It'll want to toss that clamp.

[capncarl]

I’ll try to better describe my version of roll protection cutting on the band saw. I’ve rip cut logs as large as would go under the 14” raised guide. Typically I rip cut 6” dia. logs. Roll protection consists of screwing a board flush with the bottom of the log, extending aprox 6” on each side of the log. As I cut shapes as I rip the logs, on either sides of the center of the log the anti roll board needs to extend from each side of the log. I might add that considering how dangerous the band saw can be, using it this way adds another layer of danger so you must remain focused 100% of the time. I’ve had bands break during a cut, usually I know by the tell tell knocking, other times it’s an unwanted surprise. At that time I go into the house and take a break to get my wits back! I NEVER use the bandsaw if anyone is in the shop that might distract me, or have the radio on. Distractions could be costly.

[leehljp]

I am somewhat surprised to learn of these unsafe sides of a bandsaw. Bandsaws are usually considered safer than table saws, but the BS has its unsafe sides too. The key is to know and understand what causes or situations that lend itself to the unsafe cuts. Knowing them and preparing for them - as in roll prevention is a necessity. Thanks for your input and it helps me to think things through more thoroughly.