RV cabinet in place redo... The plan.

[dbhost]

So the camper is in the shop. A recent trip went sideways on me and the front end started clunking. The Radius arm bushings were shot so I am having the shop do a full suspension re-bushing job for both the front end and the rear leaf springs. Might as well have it all done at once right?

Once I get it back. The countertop comes off and the plan of attack is as follows...

- Remove existing counter tops. There are 2 literally configured like stairs.
- Cut to size the new countertop from 3/4" plywood. Not going to wait to do the butcher block. This is a break fix situation.
- Cut to size and add via glue, and dowels an extension to the top side of the lower cabinet, thus making BOTH parts of the cabinet, 2 separate but attached boxes, one height to match the countertop.
- Cut to size and glue and dowel in a door frame BEHIND the face panel of the main cabinet.
- Clear or cover fabric stuff, my CPAP etc... from the camper before.
- Using the trim router and the end bearing pattern bit, after of course drilling a pilot hole, cut out the door opening in the front of the cabinet.
- WIth the 1/8" slot cutting bit, set the depth for and cut the slot for the T molding in the cabinet face. Install T molding.
- Finish final sizing the counter top piece, cut out openings for sink and stove, and route edge relief into it... Sand it smooth, prep it and stain / epoxy it...
- Install countertop, stove and sink hardware, double, triple, and quadruple check the stove connections!
- Verify final size for, and cut to size, edge relieve the cabinet doors. Sand / stain and epoxy them.
- Install door hardware and catches / pulls.
- Take away plastic tarp / covering and vacuum up the van, get it good and clean... Repeat steps for doors on dinette stroage access doors.

PART of me wants to take some reclaimed lumber from some pallets to do the doors with. Not sure that is a good idea, but it isn't the worst...

[capncarl]

I’ve had some bad luck using reclaim wood for doors. I’m talking about cutting the salvage wood, machining it same size, usually thinner than .75 and glueing it like a thin cutting board. Invariably one or more pieces decide to warp. I think that was why it was destined to be a pallet.

[dbhost]

I’ve had some bad luck using reclaim wood for doors. I’m talking about cutting the salvage wood, machining it same size, usually thinner than .75 and glueing it like a thin cutting board. Invariably one or more pieces decide to warp. I think that was why it was destined to be a pallet.

Possibly. I am aiming for a rustic look more than any "need" to use reclaimed material.

[capncarl]

If you cut the reclaimed wood thin, as in .25” and glue to a food flat piece of plywood or partical board warpage shouldn’t be a problem. On the cabinet top I built a couple of weeks ago I was careful to cut the board ends square and didn’t need to clamp anything to pull it in shape. I believe it will remain flat. Old wood really does make a nice rustic look

[dbhost]

Particle board is not on the menu for this project. But skinning plywood is a good idea. Need to rig a sled so I can thickness one side only... But I like the concept.

[LCHIEN]

Surely you jest. I thickness planed plywood once and it was a disaster.
First the best part of the plywood, the outer veneers, only a few thou thick, go away first, every thing else looks way worse, knots, occlusion, weird stuff different exposed layers of wood and glue. Then you find your planer blade eating a layer of glue. Horrible for the blade.
I tried it once and never again.

Even sanding, you have to be very careful not to sand through the outer veneer layer. Stuff underneath is very ugly.

[capncarl]

Jest? Not this time, plywood is some nasty stuff inside. The plywood is just the stable flat base for the display boards to be attached. Only the top display side is planed. I’ll attempt a photo of a cabinet top that I’m working on now…. Unfinished project. This top is similar to what I was describing but not planed, sanded only.

[dbhost]

Surely you jest. I thickness planed plywood once and it was a disaster.
First the best part of the plywood, the outer veneers, only a few thou thick, go away first, every thing else looks way worse, knots, occlusion, weird stuff different exposed layers of wood and glue. Then you find your planer blade eating a layer of glue. Horrible for the blade.
I tried it once and never again.

Even sanding, you have to be very careful not to sand through the outer veneer layer. Stuff underneath is very ugly.

You are not understanding. Use the plywood as a planing sled for the pallet wood planks. NOT thicknessing plywood itself. Just using it as a known flat reference, hot glue the palletwood planks to it, run it palletwood side up until those planks get to the desired thickness...

[LCHIEN]

Sorry, i read this "But skinning plywood is a good idea. Need to rig a sled so I can thickness one side only... " and concluded you were planning to plane some plywood.

[capncarl]

I do understand!
My suggestion was for situations where you do not have ample quantities of the presentation wood.

[capncarl]

DBhost,
A good number of my Tiny table tops have a frame outside with a different kind of wood inside. Example: I use a gummy cherry center board with a cherry frame surround. This process provides a slight color and texture difference between the centers and the frame. The top is planed smooth then sanded to 2000 grit. By using butt joints rather than miter joints I am able to virtually eliminate any joint lines and drastically speed up the construction time.
This method could be used to create striking looking doors without a lot of fretting with joints.
In the attached photos the glue up shows that the frames and centers do not have to be milled the same thickness. The differences in thickness will be flattened with the final planing. Note that this photo shows 2 table tops in partial glue up because it takes as much time to do 2 as it does to do 1. Note that there is aprox 4” excess material on each end to allow for planer snipe. Not everyone has a planer with no snipe to contend with.



this photo shows the simple glue up of this stage of the top build. Photo is of a single top rather than a 2 top as discussed.



This photo shows the final glue up of the 2 top job. The previous photo glue up was cleaned up and the assembly was ripped on the table saw to provide a continuous straight cut for the final side.




After the final glue up the 2 table top set up is ready to be planed. Everything will come out ready for final sanding.