I am working on a simple shelf for the laundry room. It just a board, actually. It will be supported on multiple adjustable risers from underneath. The adjustable risers will be supported by the tops of the washer and dryer. The adjustability will allow me to level the tops of the risers even though the washer and dryer tops are not perfectly level or a perfect match.
The board will be hooked to the back and right side walls to hold it in place. There will be a rectangular cutout in the back for the hoses and drain.
The exposed front and left edges will have thick molding to match the bottom of the cabinets. (Remember, the back and right edges are hooked to the wall.)
The shelf is 12 mm baltic birch plywood. I have a sheet of white HPL for the top, which will be glued with contact cement. We plan to paint the bottom.
I have more than a few years of woodworking experience, but none with HPL laminate. I already have the plywood, the HPL, the contact cement, and most common woodworking tools - table saw, bandsaw, small and medium routers, miter saw, etc. (... and other typical woodworking tools that are not likely to be needed for this project.)
I am asking for help with the laminate. Here are my questions:
1. How would you trim the laminate on the front and left sides, where the laminate butts against the molding? The flat top of the molding will form the front and left edges of the shelf at the same level as the HPL.
2. Would you cut thin strips of laminate on the table saw and use it to edge the non-molding sides with it? (Don't forget the cutout in the rear, too.)? Which glue would you use?
3. If you recommend edging with thin strips of laminate, how would you trim them? In which order? (Edge first, then top? Top first, then edge? Bevels?)?
4. Which router bits would you use? Do I need straight and beveled router bits?
I have seen the usual flush trim router bits (and have a few of those). I have also seen carbide router bits intended for laminates. They look like a carbide cylinder with a flat slot cut across to form a cutting edge.
I have searched the internet for help. There is plenty on how to use contact cement for large panel glue-ups. I have done that before, but not with HPL. I am not worried about that. There are videos about using flush trim bits on laminate edges, but zero information on how to trim the edges where the laminate will meet the molding. There is very little information on how to do those laminate edges where they meet the laminate top, and how to work that around the cutout. I am surprised that there isn't more available. Perhaps I am searching with the wrong terms.
Any answers, hints, or suggestions for improvement will be welcome and appreciated.
The board will be hooked to the back and right side walls to hold it in place. There will be a rectangular cutout in the back for the hoses and drain.
The exposed front and left edges will have thick molding to match the bottom of the cabinets. (Remember, the back and right edges are hooked to the wall.)
The shelf is 12 mm baltic birch plywood. I have a sheet of white HPL for the top, which will be glued with contact cement. We plan to paint the bottom.
I have more than a few years of woodworking experience, but none with HPL laminate. I already have the plywood, the HPL, the contact cement, and most common woodworking tools - table saw, bandsaw, small and medium routers, miter saw, etc. (... and other typical woodworking tools that are not likely to be needed for this project.)
I am asking for help with the laminate. Here are my questions:
1. How would you trim the laminate on the front and left sides, where the laminate butts against the molding? The flat top of the molding will form the front and left edges of the shelf at the same level as the HPL.
2. Would you cut thin strips of laminate on the table saw and use it to edge the non-molding sides with it? (Don't forget the cutout in the rear, too.)? Which glue would you use?
3. If you recommend edging with thin strips of laminate, how would you trim them? In which order? (Edge first, then top? Top first, then edge? Bevels?)?
4. Which router bits would you use? Do I need straight and beveled router bits?
I have seen the usual flush trim router bits (and have a few of those). I have also seen carbide router bits intended for laminates. They look like a carbide cylinder with a flat slot cut across to form a cutting edge.
I have searched the internet for help. There is plenty on how to use contact cement for large panel glue-ups. I have done that before, but not with HPL. I am not worried about that. There are videos about using flush trim bits on laminate edges, but zero information on how to trim the edges where the laminate will meet the molding. There is very little information on how to do those laminate edges where they meet the laminate top, and how to work that around the cutout. I am surprised that there isn't more available. Perhaps I am searching with the wrong terms.
Any answers, hints, or suggestions for improvement will be welcome and appreciated.
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